OT. Ford truck

tomturkey

Well-known Member
My wood getting trucks ignition(1990 3/4 Ford) switch has turned hard for some time, well today it finally did what I expected, broke. If I mess around wiggleing and fiddling with the key I can get it to start, but then it won't shut off. I know nothing about this. Can the whole lock/switch mechanism be taken out and replaced? How to fix. Can ya help me out here? Thanks gobble
 
I had an 86 ford do that, if you can take part of the plastic off around the steering coulumn, you can push that rod on top of column to start it an pull it back to shut it off. You will have to use a plier to pull it, it pulls kind of stiff, especially when cold. If I remember right, the actual switch is down low on the column and only the key switch is up by the steering wheel. It was an old beat around truck, so I just ran it that way until the engine went out, so I am no help on the proper way to fix it, but you can get by just pushing and pulling that rod until you get it fixed right.
 
Yes it can. Had to do it to my 90 about 5 years ago. Actually, I didn't do it, the shop did, but they gave me the old parts back. Yep, just a new cylinder. Only downside is that the ignition doesn't match the door key anymore, but ohwell.
 
My 1979 dodge Powerwagon just did that, haven't put new one in yet,but its a pain, already took steering wheel out and the lock column, turn signal and hazzard switch and the shifter pin just to get to it, not much fun.
 
PatsDeere has it right. What happened in my '88 f-150 was it broke and I didn't need the key to turn the switch over. IIRC there is a little button on the column might be underneath that releases the cylinder and you take the old out and replace it.
 
Thanks to all, I think the moline answer is the fix for this old wood getter. I appreciate you help. gobble
 
My "94 ford did the same thing. I took it to our local locksmith and he changed the cylinder and keyed it like the door lock, same key still. Took about 15 min.
 
One question not asked so far is does it have a tilt wheel or a fixed wheel, as it makes a big difference. I"ve got an "87 Ford truck, with a tilt wheel, that had a similar problem, twice. I"m thinking that mine and yours are the same. That said, the first time mine was simply hard as heck to start, especially when it got cold. It wound up getting harder and harder until it simply wouldn"t start. In that instance it wound up being a piece of tape off the wiring harness going up the column that had gotten wrapped aroud the rod that another post talked about. The tape eventually got into the switch itself and pushed it apart so it wouldn"t start.

The second time, I think was a result of the first problem. What happened then was in a tilt column there is a arched piece of aluminum with a "guide rod", pin, etc that carries the movement of the lock cylinder through the tilt part of the column and on to the rod that goes to the switch. I think the force to overcome the tape on mine the first time cracked the piece and it eventually failed. I called around and everyone said they didn"t make one so I took a piece of steel and machined my own. Several months later I was in Oreilies looking for something else, and they do carry them. To change the piece you have to pretty much disassemble top end of the column and get the hinge part off. Once the hinge part is off it also has to be disassembled to change the part. Just be careful when you pull the pins holding it together, that the spring doesn"t go flying. Hope this helps.
 
My 90 1/2 ton Ford broke twice. That is the little half moon piece of pot metal in the steering column. First time a friend that run a junk yard fixed it for nothing. The second time took it to a mechanic and cost me over 200 dollars. I didn't know it had a tilt steering wheel tell he told me.
 
Most of the folks have it right. The actual electrical switch is down on the side of the column neer the brake pedal. You're taxing my memory here but there may have been a recall on that switch. If it is a tilt wheel there are even more things that can jam near the lock. That whole assembly is a PIA. Mine tightened up the other way; it didn't want to go off the start slot. Be careful working on those because you can get the urge to go in the house and stick a gun in your mouth.
 
Wayne, that sounds like the same piece that I used to sell a bunch of when I worked at the Ford dealership. But the one you made is probably better. All that crap was an early effort to discourage thieves but we know about how well that worked.
 
Sounds like the electrical switch & it's near the bottom of the column. It's held in by two tamper proof torx screws. Course it could be the key lock & it removes with a pin up through the bottom of it. Advance or Oriley's will have both & the tamper proof bits if you need them.
 

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