Water from well to house runs steady at full blast which seems to say the pump & water supply is great. The set-up at the house is this: water line first comes to a valve where I checked & got full steady stream. Then the 240 pressure switch, which operates normally. Next the pressure gauge which shows pump kicks on at 23 lbs & off at 35 lbs. Next the filter (element replaced last week), then new pressure tank (air shows 27 lbs), then stop valve (open), then line forks for the fairly new water heater, then the rest of the house. With the washer on, water dribbles into the washer. Pump does not come on. Washer fills & starts washing & pump kicks on & gauge shows going from 23 lbs to 35 lbs & holds when pump kicks off. Every thing seems to me to work right so I'm thinkin 1/2" galvo iron pipe installed 1963 has rust blockage. Took part of that line apart couple of years ago & it broke at the threads rather than unscrew. Since the blockage is to the whole house, I think its blocked between the new pressure tank & the fork which goes to the water heater. What do you think?
- Thread starter 2x4
- Start date
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Take the NEW filter out, Then try it before you tear the whole dang house apart. If you have ANY water treatment Try to bypass it also. good luck.
Zachary Hoyt
Well-known Member
Sounds good to me. I would be concerned about the pipes breaking and spewing water around if they are really old and rusty. This fall I replaced most of the old galvanized pipe in our well house and simplified the layout while I was at it. A couple of years ago an old gauge on a 1/8 pipe rusted off and I had made a plastic plug to fit the hole and held it in with a hose clamp since the threads were too far gone to try to save. It hadn't leaked but I never felt comfortable with that temporary fix. I couldn't change the fitting the gauge screwed into because it was rusted solid to the fittings on both sides. When I replaced the pipes I had to cut all of the old unions with a wheel in an angle grinder because even with a 24" wrench I could not budge them. I am mush happier now with all new pipe back to the first piece by the well casing.
Zach
Zach
Mike Henry
Member
well man uncle is leaning over my shoulder and agrees with Rusted Nuts. Check that filter, bypass it or disconnect the supply side and see if the water is good there. His advise is to go through and check all valves making sure the flow is passing them. He has had ball valves get plugged after yrs of use. He agrees if you find that filter is not the problem it will be most likely a clogged line. Good luck and he says the new pex hose that people are using is awesome. Connecting it to older plumbing is initionally scaring priced but it is so easy. Run from point a to b, no joints to leak, harder to damage and less time involved. Said he wishes it were around 40 yrs ago.
whizkidkyus
Member
- Location
- South Central , Ky.
2x4 ,
By washer I'm guessing that you mean clothes washer ,not dish washer. The problem can probably happen to both . The problem is ,more than likely, that calcium / lime has stopped up the strainers , ( hot in this case , lime from water heater no doubt. See my post on water heater ). It happened to my sister clothes washer a few years ago and it took forever to fill up . Took hoses off and screens in the water inlet valves were full of lime deposits . I cleaned them out and washer ran perfect and filled up faster . Check these screens first . If their not plugged up then check to see if there is the right amount of water pressure coming out of water hoses . Could be stopped up somewhere in washer or pump. Does it empty out right ?
Whizkid
By washer I'm guessing that you mean clothes washer ,not dish washer. The problem can probably happen to both . The problem is ,more than likely, that calcium / lime has stopped up the strainers , ( hot in this case , lime from water heater no doubt. See my post on water heater ). It happened to my sister clothes washer a few years ago and it took forever to fill up . Took hoses off and screens in the water inlet valves were full of lime deposits . I cleaned them out and washer ran perfect and filled up faster . Check these screens first . If their not plugged up then check to see if there is the right amount of water pressure coming out of water hoses . Could be stopped up somewhere in washer or pump. Does it empty out right ?
Whizkid
Iowa Barber
Member
I have not read your previous post, but could your problem be a plugged hose filter on your washer?, just asking. Brian
Iowa Barber
Member
Please dis-regard my last post, I did not understand the whole problem. Sorry Brian
When I installed new "Flood-Safe" brand washer hoses on our basement clothes washer, they did restrict how fast the clothes washer would fill by at least half. Our home insurance company started giving away discount coupons for "Flood-Safe" hoses after they started seeing a lot of water damage when clothes washers were installed in the upper floors of large expensive houses.
If you disconnect your washer hoses from the faucet (spelling?), is the water flow still restricted at that faucet? You didn't say if the water flow is low at all faucets through out the house, or just at the clothes washer faucet.
If you disconnect your washer hoses from the faucet (spelling?), is the water flow still restricted at that faucet? You didn't say if the water flow is low at all faucets through out the house, or just at the clothes washer faucet.
Last 3 times my well man was out he pestered me to raise
from the 30-50 switch to a 40-60 switch, said nearly all are 40-
60 now they do any more.
Agree, your setup is very low pressure, if the washer is uphill
from your pressure switch it gets even less pressure. That is
really low.
But aside from your issue most likely, just was surprised to see
such a low setting. Tho is your washer has any fancy backflo
or other Gismo's, 23lbs would barely overcome those?
Are both the hot and cold water feeds to the washer slow have
you tried with hot and cold water settings? Sounds like your
water splits early to the heater, so you should know easy
which branch is giving trouble.
Paul
from the 30-50 switch to a 40-60 switch, said nearly all are 40-
60 now they do any more.
Agree, your setup is very low pressure, if the washer is uphill
from your pressure switch it gets even less pressure. That is
really low.
But aside from your issue most likely, just was surprised to see
such a low setting. Tho is your washer has any fancy backflo
or other Gismo's, 23lbs would barely overcome those?
Are both the hot and cold water feeds to the washer slow have
you tried with hot and cold water settings? Sounds like your
water splits early to the heater, so you should know easy
which branch is giving trouble.
Paul
Chris Jones
Member
My clothes washer has strainers inside the fittings on the back of the washer. They got clogged once upon a time with grit that the water filter should have be removing--nothing is perfect. I didn't know the screens were there. I knew I had some where the hoses hooked to the house. Once thing that I noticed at that time. Hot water ran into the washer fine--cold was really slow. Hot doesn't get clogged like the cold because all the grit sediments out in the hot water heater.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Could also be a Gate valve that came apart inside of itself, try the easy stuff 1st.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Your well Man Uncle, Has been there done That. lol.
MarkB_MI
Well-known Member
- Location
- Motown USA
Blockage in the pipe seems likely, particularly since the problem cropped up after changing the filter.
As others said, 23/35 is pretty low for a submersible pump. The pump may last forever, but you probably have trouble running sprinklers on a long hose. I run 40/55 at my place. As I said before, though, you probably shouldn't trust your pressure gauge too much.
If your tank is pressurized to 27 psi and your pump kicks on at 23, that's a problem. At those settings, the tank must run dry before the pump can kick on. I think it's more likely your water pressure gauge and tire gauge don't agree. The precharge in the empty tank needs to be at least a couple psi lower than the low switch setting for the pump; that ensures the tank will never run dry before the pump kicks on.
As others said, 23/35 is pretty low for a submersible pump. The pump may last forever, but you probably have trouble running sprinklers on a long hose. I run 40/55 at my place. As I said before, though, you probably shouldn't trust your pressure gauge too much.
If your tank is pressurized to 27 psi and your pump kicks on at 23, that's a problem. At those settings, the tank must run dry before the pump can kick on. I think it's more likely your water pressure gauge and tire gauge don't agree. The precharge in the empty tank needs to be at least a couple psi lower than the low switch setting for the pump; that ensures the tank will never run dry before the pump kicks on.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Not real rare for that to happen, Will fool a lot of pump trade people.
Iowa Barber
Member
2x4 Did you come up with a cure yet? Just wondering what it could be. Still following the thread. Brian
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