1950s Farmall Super A Tractor

I have a 1950s Farmall Super A tractor that has been sitting up for probable 15 years. Its been sitting uncovered, out in the weather for the entire time. I'm pretty sure the motor is stuck, and I'm wanting to know if its worth it to try to free it? Would it be better to try to find a new engine for it? Or try to free it by doing Marvel Mystery Oil/Diesel or something of the like. It's my late Grand dad's tractor, and I'd love to try to restore it or something. Any ideas?

First, congrats on finding Grandpa's tractor. Many of us will never be able to own a family tractor, I am so lucky to have two of them. Probably need to find out for sure if it's stuck. If the exhaust was covered you might just be lucky. If it is stuck, dis-assemble and repair what ever is worn. There are lots of ways to break a stuck engine free, but the first rule is "Do no harm". Lots better to take it apart without breaking anything, then repair the worn parts. When you are done you have a like new engine.

The thing about the exhaust is, the intake and exhaust manifolds broke off from rust. I've taken the valve cover off and the rocker arms/valve springs are rusted kind of bad. I haven't got to taking the head off. I was going to just take the plugs out and marvel mystery oil inside of the pistons

The engine is a wet sleeve style. If the pistons are stuck. the entire cylinder is replaced. the new cylinder is in contact with the coolant, and sealed at the bottom with an Oring. Sealed at the top with a rim into the head gasket. If the block is not cracked in an inoperable place, it can be made new. The engine blocks are also common and modest in cost. I would certinly give it a go. Pull the plugs and Peer inside. If rust, just pull the head, it will be less drama than trying a fruitless attampt. If pretty clean, go for the treatment. Jim

If that much is already toast, you're probably better trying to find a new mill and switch it out. However, it is probably one of the most widely made engines IH ever built, and were used in the A,B, and C series tractors, and are easy to find parts or whole engines for.

It would be more economical to find a running replacement.
However if you want it to be all original you can fix that one.
Look for exterior cracks/welds/repairs on the block.
On the left side, about three inches below the head from front
to rear is one particular place to look.
If it is already cracked and/or repaired a replacement may be best.

So you're saying, that even if it is rusted up, the cylinders should just slide completely out? It might take a little bit to free the head. What about the transmission on this tractor? Anything to really worry about on it?

Marvel Mystery oil didn't do a think for my AC c, except waste 6 mos of my time. Old has the cure, right. Aplications of ATF, and a thinner, once a week. I used laquer thinner, since it was what I had. Some folks use acetone, or keytone. Anything to get the ATF down around the rings.

Save you $$ and buy a gal jug of ATF. Fill the cylinder with ATF and also pour it on the rocker arms etc. I own and run a a good number of tractor that I got cheap because they where locked up and many have never so much as had the valve covers off of them. I have one that I know for sure was locked up for 15 plus years but sure is not now and I run it still to this day and I have had 5 generations of my family on it

No issues that are drastic. There is an oil slinger in the trans made from aluminum that can fail, but that is about it. They whine a bit. but it is normal.
Rusted off manifolds bears mute testimony of volumes of water in the engine. Look in the head ports. if drama of rust continues inside just pull the head and be done with waiting. Keep asking questions. Jim

Quit wasting time and money just tear it down new sleeves and pistons can be had for 250 or so then the head will need some serious money and grind the crank and the carb will be junk so a new engine could run around 600 there isnt any snake oil that will fix a engine thats beed sitting 15 yrs unprotected just who is kidding who.

It didnt set outside unprotected 15yrs

Even if it sat for 15 years, I'm guessing the engine probably wasn't perfect when it was parked.

You'd probably want a full rebuild even if it did turn over.

The good news is that these engines are small, slow, have very forgiving tolerances, and are relatively cheap to rebuild.

If you're not an experienced engine rebuilder, this is a perfect first engine. If you do have experience, you'll enjoy how simple this one is.

If it were me, I'd try (for no more than a week) to get the pistons freed. Even if you pull them out frozen with the sleeves, you still have to get the piston out of the sleeve. Just easier if everything's loose to begin with. But really not a big deal if it doesn't work, or if you're in a rush.

Either way, pull the head, send it to the machine shop for glass beading and a valve job, might have them knurl the valve guides while you're at it.

With the head off, you'll see just how bad half the cylinders are.

Drain and pull the oil pan so you can see the bottom half.

The cylinders will be rusty - but if they're not crusty with flaking rust, soak them with atf/acetone. Every now and then, smack them with a heavy hammer using a block of wood to protect the pistons.

You should know soon enough if it's going to move. Give it a few days of soaking, if nothing - just pull the sleeves/pistons/connecting rods as they are, and come back here for a discussion on getting the pistons out.



15 years of rust probably isn't going to hurt your transmission. I wouldn't worry too much about that.

Just keep reminding yourself that these are more like tanks than Ferraris.

Reading you post below about the manifold rusting off and the rockers covered with rust I think you are wasting your time. If the engine is that bad the transmission is probably even worse. It's not even worth the time to pull the head - "soaking it" is an act of futility, rebuilding it is a waste of money. The tractor is scrap.

Alright, thanks, I"ll attempt to pull the head tonight and look at the top end first. I"m a young mechanic. I haven"t ever done a rebuild but figured I"d learn as I go. Thanks a lot though!

Remove the head and oil pan then I would I would pull the engine. Use a piece of 2 x 2 oak and a big hammer and drive out the connecting rods and sleeves. Use an acetylene torch to heat the old sleeves to free the old pistons. Buy a new sleeve kit. Pull the crankshaft and take the head and crank to your local auto machine shop. Also buy your bearings from them. They won't grind it undersize unless it needs it. I did this on a Famall A in 1975 that was never sheltered. Hal
PS: It needed new tires,rims, steering wheel, seat and wiring to name a few. I steam cleaned the engine block it was full of crud.

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By far not always. I have an H that we had to cut 2 trees out of to load it up and it had sat out in the weather form what the guy said 20 plus years in that same spot. Engine was locked up but yet after a week I was driving it around

In that case you'll enjoy the tractor a lot more once you've gotten intimate with it as we like to say.

You'll learn that it's a pretty simple engine, and you'll be much more comfortable with the confidence that you can fix it no matter what happens.

It'll cost you some money - and most of what I and others here are saying assumes you've got some to spend.

If you're on a super tight budget and just want the thing to run for fun, then you'll have to have patience to free the pistons up by soaking and smacking etc. It most likely could be made to go if you wait long enough and try hard enough.

Pulling the head will require a brand new head gasket no matter what.

I don't necessarily have it to spend, but if there's a very good chance to get this tractor going, I'm going to take the opportunity. My dad's wanted it restored and well mostly, running. Whats a normal bill for a machining job a head that is that bad rusted?