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Diesel gelling

T

Tom vertiz

Member
So who has had a first hand experience with diesel gelling up? Also has this happened recently? I think they put additives now in the fuel starting around October to prevent this from happening. And finally what exactly is number one diesel, I have herd a couple of different people say this. They are not talking about red dye diesel. And since I am on the topic of diesel can you put red dye in newer pickups? I know legally it is not taxed for hiway use, but how is it different, I have herd people say it messes up newer moters somehow. I find it hard to believe that a engine in a pickup is any different than a engine in a piece of equipment.
 
I had a skid loader gel up last week when it got down to zero here in ny. The fuel came from the pump at the local station so I don't know if they had started last week but hopefully they have started by now. I know i should have treated it myself but i figured they had started winter blends by now but then again it was still november and who knows when it was put in thier tanks. I had a pump rebuilt for a truck a few years ago. When I was picking it up I asked the guys at the shop. They said off road or the red diesel isn't refined as much to make ultra low sulfer diesel and therefore has more lubrication in it. They told me its actually better to run in older Diesel engines that need more lubrication for the pumps.
 
Road diesel and red diesel from the same company are the same except for the dye added to the off road diesel.

Each company (cenex mobil bp and etc.) add there own additive package to the diesel when the trucks are loaded at the pipeline along with the dye for the off roaddiesel.

Winter blend is a combination of #1 and #2 diesels. It is blended to the percentages the retailers desire.

#1 is higher priced so retailers do not put in anymore than they think they need to.

That is why some diesels jell and some don"t. It is all in the percentage of blend.

Gary
 
The fuels are the same as far as red or not. Many time the truck puts the dye in when dumping the load at the final destination. No. 1 diesel is more refined and is closer to kerosene. It is ok for all engines but has less energy and lubrication. My truck lost 1/2 mpg when they switched to winter fuel this year because each gal has less energy.
 
The newer diesels jell faster then the old did because they use smaller micron filters and higher injection pressures then the old did . I have 2 tractors that say in the book if the temp falls below 30 degrees to use 100 % number 1 fuel The low sulfer fuel also jells faster. We did have summer grade no. 2 in our combines jell and not run at 10 degrees this fall It didn't plug the screens at the tank but it looked cloudy and it did plug the filters.
 
My knowledge of diesel fuel is pretty much add when the gauge is low so this might sound strange but, in the summer where I buy my diesel they have two tanks, on road and off. On road is always at least 75¢ more than off road. They tell me off road is less refined and therefore less money. If it was all the same why would off road be so much less from the same place? Road tax maybe? Almost a dollar a gallon difference at times seems a lot.
 
The fine for getting caught with Red in your tank is about the price of a nice diesel pick up.
The old and still used around here winter mix, is 10% gasoline to 90% #2.
When you get into the teens you can have trouble anytime(or never)
 
It's cheaper because you don't pay the road tax because it's not supposed to be used on the road. Many states the road tax is in the $.30 raow.nge n
 
When I was buying heating fuel I asked the owner of the company why the price of the heating oil was at a higher price than it would have been if you subtracted of the road tax. His answer was a higher profit on heating oil. Heating fuel was running about twenty cent's less per gallon than pump price Diesel. Heating fuel and off road diesel are both red, I think.
 
Off road diesel is only 10 cents/gal less expensive than on road fuel at the Marathon truck stop where I buy it.

Dean
 
IAGary gave you about the best answer IMO. It's true, off road and on road are the same today from most refineries here in the US or legal for sale (EPA low sulfur diesel). Dye can be added at any time in the presale/sale/delivery as long as when the truck pulls away it's died.

I haven't had a jell up in a couple of years but I'm real careful about adding anti jell to any summer fuel I have on hand prior to it getting very cold. Most often a new filter/set of filters plus anti jell will fix the problem. Worst part is bleading out the system.

Big price difference is the lack of road tax on it. The federal road tax on diesel is about 24.4 cents a gallon and the MN state tax is another 28.6. So that's a total of 53 cents a gallon off the pump price. Then most distributers offer a cheaper rate than the pump with a minimum purchase. For me that totals about 75 cents a gallon delivered.

Rick
 
It is possible the off road fuel/ heating fuel which is dyed red has a higher sulphur content. Depends on your state laws these days on sulphur levels, most places its all the same any more, but the possibility is there.

Otherwise #2 has more btu per gallon, lubricates the engine better. It starts jelling at 30 degrees or so, typically not a problem until below 20 degrees, by 10 degrees most diesel engines will want to jell up. There is a waxy substance in the fuel that turns solid at those temps, colder it is the bigger the waxy bits get so the exact temp depends on your engine, new engines have tighter filters.... I have a tractor with the engine heater below the fuel filter, if you plug it in and the coolant is warm you can run straight #2 at 10 below, it keeps the fuel and the filter warm enough.....

#1 fuel doesn't wax until about minus 60 degrees. It costs more, has less btu, and can heat an engine in warm temps. So fuel stations blend as little as possible to anticipate what is needed for the upcoming weather. You are better off with less #1, but need enough to not jell. It is a balancing act as to how much to blend. If you order bulk fuel, you can specify what you want, 100% of 2, 1, or what blend you want. 50-50 is good for any weather we get here, -30 in the extreme. Colder places might need more #1....

The red dye is added to any diesel fuel or heating fuel that is not taxed for on road use. It really doesn't have any bearing on what grade fuel it is, the red is only a dye and only a tax issue, not a fuel grade or type issue.

With the rapid temp fall up here in MN over yesterday and into today, we will see many semis on the side of the road, catches them by surprise every year, both locals and those from the south.

One can run straight number 2 fuel all winter here in an older tractor if you add enough Power Service, Houges, or other anti-gel treatment. These also work in newer tighter engines but I have no idea if as well. These additives keep the wax dissolved, but can be a tad hard on plastic/rubber bits, tight pumps. Everything is a trade off isn't it?

Many places run biodiesel, 2-5%, and the bio part will gel up just a tad quicker so you need to be treating or blending perhaps 5 degrees sooner than in the old days.

Paul
 

I am in NH where it gets cold in the winter, so fuel is blended by the oil companies in the winter to lower the cloud point. I have always used Power Service anti-gel as a preventive measure, and have still had fuel gel on me three times. Each time it was with trucks that employees drove and were supposed to be adding the anti-gel to. One, when I asked how many times he had skipped the treatment, told me six times. Fortunately he was close to a service station and had a warm place to wait. It was common to see trucks, especially from the south, on the side of the road on cold mornings. probably not as much in recent years. When you call for a road service for gelling up these days SOP seems to be to tow to the shop of your choice and get it inside in the warm and start it the next day. It is a lot easier to add the treatment.
 
I add an additive to my diesel fuel bulk tank in the winter. I know the dealer says I don't need to but it is cheap insurance. Although I only use a couple hundred gallon in the winter. Who wants to deal with jelled up fuel in the cold?
 
I live in Northern Ontario and my fuel has gelled many times. Number one fuel is regular diesel fuel, and red off road fuel is simply regular fuel with red dye added so the government knows that the road tax has not been paid on that fuel. Number 2 fuel is furnace oil, which is thinner and does not gel up in the cold. Number 2 fuel can also have red dye put in it. Here the fuel companies mix number 1 and 2 fuel together in the fall to try to keep the fuel from gelling up in peoples equipment. About now they switch to pure furnace oil until about March sometime.
We NEVER buy diesel from a station down south in the winter because we know that it will gel up and kill our engine when we get home. Fixing it involves towing the vehicle to a warm shop, leaving it in for two days, changing the fuel filters to get the jello out, and praying.
I have had my own tractors gel for different reasons. 1, not being on the ball and ordering fuel at the beginning of winter so I was still running summer fuel. 2, the fuel company being too cheap to mix enough furnace oil in the fuel. In this case, my tractor would run fine at 20 degrees, die at 0 degrees, and fire up and run fine again at 20 degrees. The fuel company got well chewed out for that one.
I have never heard of furnace oil causing any engine or fuel pump damage, but since they have removed the sulfer from both fuels, the lack of lubricity has destroyed fuel pumps, therefore in my opinion a fuel additive is needed to restore lubricity summer and winter. One of the best I understand is 2 cycle oil.
 
(quoted from post at 00:04:04 12/05/13) Off road diesel is only 10 cents/gal less expensive than on road fuel at the Marathon truck stop where I buy it.
Click to expand...

Gee, I wonder who is making out on that deal...

They're playing on the fact that most people only notice that it's cheaper, just not how much cheaper. They pocket the 20 cents a gallon.

So... It's a matter of which "evil" you want to support... Corporate greed, or government excess.
 
(quoted from post at 09:30:15 12/05/13) I live in Northern Ontario and my fuel has gelled many times. Number one fuel is regular diesel fuel, and red off road fuel is simply regular fuel with red dye added so the government knows that the road tax has not been paid on that fuel. Number 2 fuel is furnace oil, which is thinner and does not gel up in the cold. Number 2 fuel can also have red dye put in it. Here the fuel companies mix number 1 and 2 fuel together in the fall to try to keep the fuel from gelling up in peoples equipment. About now they switch to pure furnace oil until about March sometime.
We NEVER buy diesel from a station down south in the winter because we know that it will gel up and kill our engine when we get home. Fixing it involves towing the vehicle to a warm shop, leaving it in for two days, changing the fuel filters to get the jello out, and praying.


I have had my own tractors gel for different reasons. 1, not being on the ball and ordering fuel at the beginning of winter so I was still running summer fuel. 2, the fuel company being too cheap to mix enough furnace oil in the fuel. In this case, my tractor would run fine at 20 degrees, die at 0 degrees, and fire up and run fine again at 20 degrees. The fuel company got well chewed out for that one.
I have never heard of furnace oil causing any engine or fuel pump damage, but since they have removed the sulfer from both fuels, the lack of lubricity has destroyed fuel pumps, therefore in my opinion a fuel additive is needed to restore lubricity summer and winter. One of the best I understand is 2 cycle oil.
Click to expand...

Wrong
 
What most people refer to as 'gelling' is nothing more than the water in their tanks, lines and filters freezing up. That's not gel, it's ice, plain and simple. Adding methyl alcohol or many of the various diesel additives will add a quantity of methyl alcohol that will melt the ice. It also holds the water in immulsion in the fuel... so if you're lucky it will plug the filter quickly... and you change the filter to get rid of the water.

As far as diesel fuel is concerned... there are 4 grades that I'm aware of. 1D, 2D, 4D and 6D. 1D is the lightest weight fuel with the least energy and is intended for the coldest weather usage. 2D is the standard blend that's used for medium-high speed diesels in most climate conditions although it will be blended down with some 1D for winter use in many areas. 4D is a heavy oil for slow speed marine engines and 6D, IIRC, is basically like bunker oil and needs to be heated to flow...
In terms of clear vs died fuel... the only difference today is the DYE. In years past when the first tier of emissions reductions came along they developed LSD (Low Sulphur Diesel) which reduced the sulphur content from around 5000 ppm to about 500 ppm. This was only mandated on highway engines, thus there was a difference between dyed and clear fuel. When Tier III emissions came along, the addition of DPF (Diesel Particulate Filters) in the exhaust mandated an Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel (ULSD) with a sulphur content below 15 ppm so that the sulphur didn't cause problems in the emission systems. Since that mandate has extended to both highway and off highway engines, the ULSD requirement is extended to ALL diesel fuel since 2007. So... today the only difference is the dye... beyond the fact that ULSD has slightly less BTU/gal of energy as compared to LSD or high sulphur oil (furnace oil).

Rod
 
If the Iowa DOT catches you with red dyed fuel in your pickup on a public road, you will wish you hadn't used it. They believe in maximum fines!
 
(quoted from post at 07:26:45 12/05/13) If the Iowa DOT catches you with red dyed fuel in your pickup on a public road, you will wish you hadn't used it. They believe in maximum fines!
Click to expand...

Last I knew MN was a $750 fine with off road in a road vehicle. And that's what's call old news. That was 10-12 years ago when MN really cracked down. I don't know anyone who's been caught sense then.

Rick
 
I have a 7305 cub cadet tractor, and it will jell fast. I have had to take the filter out and run it without. An old road grader would jell if I didn't let it warm up for 30 minutes. I also use Power Service. I new a guy that swiped some red fuel for his pickup. $15,000 for the red, and not sure what he got for the sticky fingers.
 
Never had a problem with diesel gelling here in Sask. At least not with my diesels. I have run summer fuel in the winter but the secret is to make sure I have mixed in the fuel treatment before the weather turns super cold. Also have a wind guard along the side of the engine where the fuel filters and pump are located. The heat off the engine helps a lot.

And as far as I know, off road, on road, or heating oil, its all the same fuel out of one truck. Only difference is the taxes. We get a break on taxes for the diesel we use for farming.
The fuel suppliers automatically start blending down to thinner fuel as we get into later fall when cold weather begins.
And yes, summer diesel fuel will gel without water in it. I've seen it where it would hardly pour out of a pail in some of our extreme cold. That will plug or at least restrict any fuel filter.
I hear the wind chill factor is -40C here this morning. Guess I will start the gas tractor today to feed hay.
 
Wrong. Fuel has paraffin in it that turns to wax when it gets cold. Water will freeze at the bottom of the tank & stay there.
 
Your right, some people change thier filters after thier motors gel because they claim the paraffin that gels will stay waxed in them even after it warms up
 
I have gelled a few times over the years. Pickups, tractors and semis. It's usually the result of poor fuel or not taking the proper steps to treat it. It has been 5 years since I have gelled one though. I run straight #2 fuel year round in everything and treat with Howes additive in the winter. -10*F here this morning with a -30* windchill. Tractor started and ran just fine to feed. 2007 dodge cummins got my wife to work 30 miles away just fine and my 1993 dodge cummins has been driving me around all morning.

As far as dyed fuel goes, around here there is no difference. It is simply a dye added. Get caught with dyed fuel in a licensed road vehicle and it's a hefty fine.

My understanding and experience is #2 fuel is usually good down to around 15*F. #1 fuel is good down to around -15*F. #1 is less refined so performance will suffer. Not a big deal but I have seen mileage go down using #1. I have gelled up #1 but it was -25* when it happened. Started using straight #2 with Howes 5 years ago and haven't gelled since (knocks on wood!).

Casey in SD
 
They will blend fuel to the average lowest temperature in your area. You are usually OK traveling south, or east/west, but can get in trouble traveling north without stopping for fuel every 250 miles or so.

They blend to -10 here.
 
I believe they can actually make you pay road tax on
all the miles on that vehicle, what ever that is.
Don't know if it's true, but I heard about a guy
turning over his truck because it was cheaper than
the fine.
 
Kerosene mixed with your fuel will prevent gelling, however, it can"t be dyed or you risk the same fines as dyed diesel.
Jet fuel will also work; it won"t gel. But I don"t think I would go with pure jet fuel.
 
Number 2 diesel is the same fuel used for home heating and engines. Number 1 diesel is more commonly called kerosene and when used in unvented heating it is called K 1.
Modern fuel will only gel if extreme cold temps are occurring, near or below zero.
A poster below said that water would settle to the bottom and freeze but that is only partially true as condensation will form as tiny droplets and float in the fuel and then plug your filters.
Using a good fuel additive with antigeling properties is a good idea and of course buy good fuel and keep your fuel tank full also helps. A 50-50 blend of number 2 fuel and kerosene will flow even below zero.I farm where the temp goes below zero many time a year and I seldom have trouble with fuel gelling.
 
Sorry... not wrong. I been around a couple years now and I've yet to see fuel actually 'gel' I know it can gel and the paraffin will settle out at a certain point... but the classic freezup that most people deal with it water, plain and simple. Unless some of you are dealing with awful poor fuel. Around here, it's simply unheard of. Lots of freezing due to ice tho. Every single situation I've seen of so called gelling has been nothing more than water.


Rod
 
I have used Howes for over 10 years. In 08, I had everything on the place gel up. Like you, I only run #2, but I think I must have had some water in my farm tank. I ended up with about 3 gallons of Power Service 911 in my 1000 gal fuel tank, then a bottle of it each outfit.
We bought a ASV skid steer, 3 years ago, and it is the gellingest thing I have ever been around. I gelled up this morning, and I have a full bottle of Howes in 20 gallons of fuel. Change the fuel filter, and added another half bottle, and we are good to go. GRRRRRRRRR Of course we are up to 5 above now too.
 
Tom, I sent 14 1/2 years of my life in the fuel and oil business. I will not get technical. Went through hundreds of hours and millions of miles of testing on all types fuels and oils. These people that are telling you #2 fuel oil and #2 diesel are the same product are WRONG. The base fuel MIGHT be the same but from there on everything is different. #1 fuel is not the same as Kerosene, true kerosene is lighter and has a few less btu's than #1 diesel. It will work to keep your #2 fuel from gelling. #1 fuel is a higher refined fuel than #2. #1 should not gel till you get in the -30 range. #2 fuel oil will gel in the +25 range and #2 premium diesel will start to gel around +15. The ONLY way to keep diesel from gelling is to run #1 or a mix of #1 and #2. This time of year most fuels north of the Mason Dixon line should be mixed 1/2 X 1/2. Most truck stop fuels used to be mixed 1/4#1 X 3/4 #2. This is not enough #1, they depend on the truckers to pour in the overpriced additives to keep their trucks running. If they were running the proper fuel, fuel mix or farther north, straight #1 they would not need the expensive additive. A lot of guys run additives for piece of mind. I never ran additives in my fleet of trucks and never had 1 truck gel up. I have delivered many gallons of straight #1 to tractors and trucks that were gelled up in fields, along roads, in lots etc, most of the time at -25 or -30F, because the darn people were TOO CHEAP to spend a few extra cents per gallon to keep it from happening.
 
Your proper response is from hd6gtom. #2 heating oil is high sulfer. All on highway diesel fuel is ultra low, no more that 15 parts per million. I just rolled the first load of winter fuel into our shop today. previous fuel was good to 15 deg F, this is blended to -17 deg. Deep into winter the blend will reach -36 cloud point with a pour point somewhere around -46.

The dye will not do any harm to any tier 4 emissions engine. The off road fuel I bring in is the exact same fuel loaded through the same arm. The only thin different is the dye that gets injected at the rack every 50 or so gallons.

I haul fuel for a living.

Stumpy
 
Few
years ago when record breaaking cold was -57 in north Dakota an Wisconsin i had my Kenworth parked in Ohio over weekend an lowest temp was -25. Engine was plugged in an when i went to start it it turned over but vacum gage showing condition of fuel filter rapidly went to point engine shut off. We than with torch heated fuel filter an started engine an watched vacium an as it rose we added heat to brass fitting at filter therby heating fuel .We continued this until engine warmed up in 15-20 minutes an added heat to returned fuel in tank.I than started trip to above states an on second morninng drove through -37 degree temperatures an both fuel temperature an vacium never indicated engine was any where near starving for fuel. Course in those temperatures engine was not turned off.Also we were
always told to fill fuel tanks when coming back to terminal so there was no moisture ladden air drawn in tank as fuel an tank cooled an condense moisture in it.Company also followed excelent maitaance schedules.
 
Few
years ago when record breaaking cold was -57 in north Dakota an Wisconsin i had my Kenworth parked in Ohio over weekend an lowest temp was -25. Engine was plugged in an when i went to start it it turned over but vacum gage showing condition of fuel filter rapidly went to point engine shut off. We than with torch heated fuel filter an started engine an watched vacium an as it rose we added heat to brass fitting at filter therby heating fuel .We continued this until engine warmed up in 15-20 minutes an added heat to returned fuel in tank.I than started trip to above states an on second morninng drove through -37 degree temperatures an both fuel temperature an vacium never indicated engine was any where near starving for fuel. Course in those temperatures engine was not turned off.Also we were
always told to fill fuel tanks when coming back to terminal so there was no moisture ladden air drawn in tank as fuel an tank cooled an condense moisture in it.Company also followed excelent maitaance schedules.
 
I think the ULSD that we have to deal with today gells a lot easier than the older diesel. I have gelled my truck several times. A few times I could limp home with the check engine light on, one time it was bad enough that it wouldn't run. I carry a quart of powerservice 911 with me and always put additive in now in the wintertime. I haven't had a problem since I bought a fuel filter heater similar to this: http://utahbiodieselsupply.com/fuelfilterheater.php

edit: The other and more likely reason is seems worse today is the new trucks with today's emissions have very fine filters. I am sure those 2 micron filters needed for the new injectors plug a lot faster than the injectors on the older (10+ year) old trucks.
 
(quoted from post at 11:48:20 12/05/13) Sorry... not wrong. I been around a couple years now and I've yet to see fuel actually 'gel' I know it can gel and the paraffin will settle out at a certain point... but the classic freezup that most people deal with it water, plain and simple. Unless some of you are dealing with awful poor fuel. Around here, it's simply unheard of. Lots of freezing due to ice tho. Every single situation I've seen of so called gelling has been nothing more than water.


Rod
Click to expand...

I have never had a problem with water. The fuel is actually gelling. I have a 2 liter bottle of home made bio-diesel out in the unheated garage right now. It gels at around 30 degrees which is a lot worse than regular diesel. Right now it looks like a bottle full of whipped butter.
 
(quoted from post at 09:28:39 12/05/13) I believe they can actually make you pay road tax on
all the miles on that vehicle, what ever that is.
Don't know if it's true, but I heard about a guy
turning over his truck because it was cheaper than
the fine.
Click to expand...

Here in NH they have a flat rate per gal. penalty and they charge you for all of your storage CAPACITY as well
 
I have had trouble with Hucks fuel in Farmer City, IL because of the poor quality of the bio. One winter I was changing the filter every other day. In the summer time no problems. A freind that did truck repair always took a gallon of E10 gas and diesel with a filter and a broom handle when making road calls. He would pour the gas in the tank, change the filter with good fuel, and start stiring the fuel in the tank with the broom handle. He would always get the truck started. Full tanks will keep the water out from condensation. Never shutting off the engine will let you burn poor fuel with the newer fuel heaters.
 
Some of the replies still have me laughing. There certainly has been a lot of information put out here but a lot of it is hogwash. You
should listen to those who deal with -30 to -40 temps on a regular basis because that's where the "rubber meets the road" as far as "jelling" is concerned. -44 and it's up for grabs. In that case, do what the germans did on the eastern front. Leave the damned things run from November through March. True.
 
That's another issue entirely...

Again, my observation is that properly mixed pump diesel from a reputable supplier will very seldom if ever gel. I've never seen it happen myself.

Rod
 
Went through it where I work on one of the forklifts. Diesel can gel but the problem they had was ice. The water trap on the bottom of the filter was completely frozen... from water in the fuel. Could have been from condensation or a bad supply of diesel from the pump but new fuel and filters solved the problem. Gelling can cause similar problems but it won't freeze solid like ice.
 
I know fuel can technically gel... it's something we talked about in school... but outside of the theory, my point is that in practice it very seldom happens here. All of the fuel in this area comes out of Esso's tank farm and they seem to do a pretty good job of adjusting the blend for our climactic conditions. I also never have experienced the mythical pump failure due to lack of fuel lubrication.
Ice... I've experience frequently enough due to my having some water in my slip tank and cans that I haul fuel around in... so the alcohol season is now upon us.

Rod
 
It has been in around the -25F mark for the past 12 hours or more. I am heading out to check on the cattle shortly so just out of curiosity, if I can remember, and if I am not too frozen up myself, I will have a look at my storage tank of "summer diesel" just to see if it has thickened up some. Maybe a good subject for a youtube video? :)
 
Rod, if you have been around a few years then you ought to know that alcohol is not good for injection pumps as is power service and 911 (ask any competant pump shop)dsl. gelling and ice are two differen't issues, I usually drain the moisture traps before cold weather but for gelling in Mn I run 1/3 to 1/2 #1 and Stanadyne additive, it is -20F this morning here and I have no worries of my loader or snow blower tractors running, #2heating oil and premium #2 dsl. used to be differen't products but the fuel dealers around here just carry one product now which is premium dsl., #1 is not kerosene and has less btu's than #2 but using some beats sitting on the side of the road
 
Saw 3 gelled vehicles today on my 100 mile commute. A semi this morning and a semi and a tour bus this afternoon. It was 0 this morning and 10 degrees this afternoon. Apparently not everyone has their cold weather fuel yet. I know my diesel pick which I last filled up about 3 weeks ago probably does not.
 
Here in Sask. there is no decision to make. If you buy diesel at this time of year it will be "winter diesel". They are not going to be handling fuel that won't flow through your fuel filters.
Just out of curiousity I looked at the fuel in my storage tank that was last filled in September. The fuel (dyed red) was still quite liquid but cloudy and I could see tiny particles in it. Temp had been -25F overnight and was about -15F when I was handling the fuel. Would it flow through a filter? I suspect those tiny particles would eventually plug the filter and cause fuel starvation.
 
No, alcohol is not good for fuel systems... but it's less bad than ice. I tend to laugh at those who tell me that and then proceed to dump a pile of additive like Power Service in their tanks tho... as if they weren't adding a bunch of alcohol.
It sounds like your fuel dealers are doing the same thing as here... While furnace oil and diesel are technically two different products with the same #2 base stock fuel, the additive packages are different....the practice here for some number of years now is simply to sell diesel in place of furnace oil, supposedly because they don't want to stock two different products at the bulk plant.

Anyone that studied a bit of ancient history of how the oil industry developed should know that Kerosene is a vastly different product from #1 oil... What they also do here is cut #2 oil with kerosene to make a lighter product for winter use but it's not the same as #1 oil and it doesn't burn the same.... Kerosene is a difficult product to mix with #2 and unless it's done correctly it doesn't mix... so you just have two layers of two different products in the tank...

Rod
 

I'm no chemist so can someone explain where the alcohol is in Power Service? I posted advertised ingredients of 9-1-1. Thanks,Jim
mvphoto1537.jpg
 
It doesn't seem like it gels sooner, it does gel sooner, a lot of the truckstop trucker's magazines had a ton of information about it when the switch was made. Once it does gel it has to be heated to a higher temp than the old fuel before the waxes return to suspension as well.
 
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