GM 2.2 Eco Tech Milky Oil

John T

Well-known Member
I have a 2004 Grand Am high mileage with the 2.2 Four cylinder Eco Tech used in a lot of GM cars, uses some oil but not excessive, runs PERFECT.. The oil stick comes out with a thick and real milky color coating grrrrrrrrrrrrr.

Its does NOT overheat,,,,,,,,Does NOT seem to be using much if any coolant,,,,,,,,Does NOT exhibit excess white smoke or steam out the exhaust. I need to go out n let some exhaust gas run on my hand to smell n tatse for sweet antifereeze I reckon.

I guess my mechanic buddy can do a pressure test but that's more for radiator leak detection (NO leaks ever from engine or radiator), right or wrong???

SO, BAD HEAD GASKET ???? Whatcha thinkin????

I told the wife its nuttin money cant fix, even if it needs a new head gasket????

John T NOT any modern car mechanic
 
I have been told that Milky color oil is one of three things. Air, Water, or oils that don't mix. With Hyd oil I put some in a glass jar. Heat it in a pan of water. If it turns all oil = air. If water it will separate. Mixed oil will just take some flushing.
 
I know it's a different engine, but I had one engine in my 1981 Ford F100 that produced the same thing, white or milky oil, but only in the winter. As soon as spring arrived, all gone. Lots of condensation in the 300 inch 6. Maybe a hotter thermostat would be something to cheque. Ellis
 
Most likely a bad head gasket, but be sure to have the head checked for cracks, too. Some of those GM engines were bad about that.
Good Luck and God Bless
 
(quoted from post at 17:35:53 12/01/13)
John T
Check to be sure the crankcase ventilation isn't plugged. If it's plugged moisture has no way to escape.

I agree, same issue with a gm 2.4 a few years back. PCV was all plugged up.

Rich
 
Do you drive it far/long enough to get it really good and hot, or just short city trips? Is the oil milky too, or just the stick? Mark
 
I just went and looked. NEW INFO

The 1/2 rubber hose from air intake to top of valve cover area is broke rotten and leaks badddddddddd.

I cant find anything that looks like how a PVC Valve or fitting or any sort PVC on older cars looked. Theres no PCV valve down into the valve cover area I can find.

I did notice that ugly thick milky gray substance on the stick IS WORSE WHEN SHES BEEN VERY LOW ON OIL.

I just added 2 qts n drove her to town and now I see more oil on the stick and much less nasty gray thick stuff.

Maybe if I fix that hose,,,,,, n change the oil,,,,,,,,, n not let it get 2 qts low it will clear up??? As I stated, it never gets hot it never white smokes or steams out the exhaust n doesnt seem to be loosing coolant.

Updated thoughts now with this new info??????

Maybe its fixed lol

John T
 
Drain oil hot, refill with atf, fast idle 20 minutes with engine hot, drain atf, replace oil filter, put new good oil in it with 1 quart risolone, fix pcv. I would do all of this prior to tearing down a properly running engine. At least once a week drive the car 30 miles at highway speed to burn out the condensation.
 

I know a fella who has an earlier Ford tractor.
He was told that the milky oil in the transmission is "Aircraft Lubricant" and refuses to change it.!!
He bought that story Hook-Line and Sinker..!!

Could it be..Maybe..???

Naw..!!

Ron..
 
Now I would suggest making a real mess. Drain a little out and then stop, and drain more in a different pan, etc etc and see if you have oil that will not mix together. I have lived 30 miles from town and some times see this when I don't add the same kind of oil.
 
Just did the reflush in the Ex's 96 Olds with the 3.1 V6. The notorius 3.1 intake manifold gasket syndrome strikes again. Had to do the intake gaskets in favorite son's 97' Lumina 3.1 back in April. Same thing, leaking Anti freeze into the lifter galley. I run a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer in every engine so it's not a real big problem, just nasty to clean up after.
 
I still wonder if the condensation is only in the dipstick tube , or if the oil is full of it , too. I would change the oil and filter asap and see what it looks like. Mark
 
You found the smokin gun. Change oil and filter. If you wish to be super cautious, have the old oil tested for anti freeze.

Short trips are bad news. My recommendation would be for synthetic oil if you were inclined to keep the car.
 
I had a truck that had that problem so bad, it rusted the dip stick, and dip stick tube. I had chunks of rust on the dip stick every time I checked the oil. The oil itself was fine. Dip stick was always covered with white milky condensate. The dipstick actually blew out of the dip stick tube a couple times. It was a simple fix. I think PVC valve, but don't remember. Your engine is not ventilating. I'd start with PVC valve.
 
Those engines have a water pump driven by the timing chain. It is possible for coolant to come from a bad pump if the drain is plugged and the pump seal fails.
 
Get the milky oil out of it. If it is coolant, it will take out the lower engine bearings (mains and rods) quickly. The engine cooling system needs to be pressure tested. It MUST be determined if it's coolant and with your description it cannot be ruled out. Gerard
 
No PCV Valve anywhere I can find on this 2.2 GM Eco Tech four cylinder engine. Can you tell me where it is???

John T
 
I figure it's either condensation (the bad hose) or the water pump so try the easy first. Got to fuss at you a little though. 4 quarts of oil in that engine - 2 quarts low - 1/2 quart in the filter = 1 & 1/2 quarts in the pan. You're gonna need a new engine quick at that rate.
 
Actually a 2.2L takes 4.5 quarts of oil if you change the oil filter. I've been pouring 5 quarts in my 2007 HHR since day one (that's what is in the jug). It reads just over the full mark when freshly changed - right at the full mark at 5K miles when I change it. Usually the "oil monitoring system" says the oil is at 50%.

For the reason posted I never go over 5K on a car especially with conventional oil. To many things can go wrong in 8K or 10K miles that you'll never catch unless you drain the oil.

On a side note I checked my Mom's 1999 Taurus over the weekend. I last changed it with Mobile 1 in November 2010. She had put all of 3120 miles on it since then - the car shows 45,800 miles on it. I think it's only gotten wet at the car wash the last 5 years.

Thinl its ready for another oil change?
 
JohnT,
How long did the car sit while you were traveling?

Before I would replace head gasket I would try a few things.

1. run without raditor under pressure. I use a large paper clip inside the radiator so the gasket on rad cap can't make a good seal. When pressure builds antifreeze goes in to the overflow tank.

2. Try stop leak.

3. Change to non-detergent oil. If there is antifreeze in oil, the antifreeze should settle on the bottom so when you drain oil, you should see water. Detergent oil has like a soap in it to cause the water to attach to the oil and produce milk.

4. You problem could be condensation, antifreeze or blow-by past rings. Engine exhaust has tons of water. I had a high milage engine with blow-by problem and milk in oil. My blow-by problem also produced sludge on rocker arms. So remove oil fill cap and take a look see.

Let us know what you find.
George
 

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