fixing screw holes in tin

I have a few screw holes in the roof of my hay barn where they missed the purlins and now that we are finally getting some good rain it is leaking a little,so what is the best and easiest thing to put in the holes from underneath the barn or would it be better to get on top and fix them? Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 17:49:35 11/28/13) I have a few screw holes in the roof of my hay barn where they missed the purlins and now that we are finally getting some good rain it is leaking a little,so what is the best and easiest thing to put in the holes from underneath the barn or would it be better to get on top and fix them? Thanks
I have stopped many holes by using a proper size pop rivet coated with silicone caulking. Even repaired large holes with a patch pop riveted.
 
I've repaired a number of the with just plain old roof cement. Just trowel a bit into the hole. Pop rivets sound like a good idea with a little roof cement too. After a number of years the roof will need painted, I've been using aluminum roof coating for mobile homes and it will last about 15 years for me. I did all of them this year and I'm 70. Next time they need it someone else will do 'em.
 
A screw sized hole I just will fill with a dab of 100% silicone caulk. I have reused old tin and had to do that sometimes.
Zach
 
I fill them with a dab of straight clear silicone. The first I filled was 20+ year's ago on a fairly flat roof and they have never leaked. I filled from the top, both on the rib as well as in the flat. Has worked excellent for me.
 
We had a couple in a pole barn roof where the screw missed the sheeting board. I held a block of wood under the hole and a buddy ran a roofing screw into the block. 5 years ago and no leaks yet.
 
Asphalt patch seems to fall in the hole on hot days needing redone every 2-3 years, block and screw works well. On our sheds and my house I just use silicone caulk.

This summer the old dairy barn roof needed a hole matching the size of a full choke 410 at 30 feet fixed. I used blueskin over the hole then screwed a tile of steel over it to keep the sun off. That was fun standing on a 25 ft ladder in the back of the truck on the 2nd to top rung...
 
..YES! That's the only way to go with holes in roof metal and the silicon will last for years and years. When we put on new steel roofs we use silicon around stacks,chimneys and vents as well as any hole we may have missed a screw and the silicon lasts for year and years..we trust it completely on a roofing job
 
Yup had to fix a neet whole in the roof from a dropped hammer from the top of a silo. It was a pretty darn big hammer head size hole. It was the old tin type roof and I used a piece of tin roof, silicone, and some pop rivits. Was back around the mid 70s. Still there. Jeffcat
 
when I was a sheet metal worker I walked all over a 80 x 160 metal building that had been re-used carrying a 25 pound LP cylinder and a pair of 3 pound set of soldering coppers, I had a nail apron of roofing nails and a bottle of muratic acid. I would drop the nail in the hole. Hit the head of the nail with a bit of acid and a touch of the bar solder and hot iron. It was an easy fix and fast. This new barn tin will not solder. This was a true zink galvanized material
 
When we finish a roof new metal or used I always walk it with a caul gun and silicone . Few shots here and there and no leaks. Have used quite a bit of reused metal and have not had many leaks repairing this way.
 

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