Why dont tractors start when its cold?

I have a 53 Allis wd and it only turns over a couple times in the summer and starts right up. But when its cold it wont start. I checked to see if I have spark and I do. I took the plug out of the bottom of the carb and fuel ran out. So what gives? Whats the reason it wont start? I have a radiator heater in the bottom hose but it must not work. Left it plugged in for an hour and it was still cold to the touch. By the way the high today was 15*.
 
What weight of oil is in it? We generally run 10W in our chore tractors in winter. Cranking speed really matters too. Cold has a way of bringing out the weak spots in machinery!
Lon
 
Reason 1:
Fuel does not vaporize as readily at lower temperatures. It also has a tendency to condense on the intake passages on its way to the combustion chamber. This requires a much richer mixture to insure that enough vaporized fuel reaches the spark plug.
Reason 2: At lower temperatures, it takes more current to turn over the engine due to higher viscosity of the oil in the crankcase. This lowers the available voltage to the ignition system and results in a weaker spark. This means that there is less soark available to fire the fuel mixture.
Reason 3: Thicker oil not only causes higher current draw and lower voltage, but also causes SLOWER cranking speed. This produces less air flow through the carburetor's venturi. This results in less atomized fuel available for starting.
 

Draws a lot of juice to roll it over and it don't leave much to fire the coil. I have a WC Allis changed to 12 volt with multi weight oil and it don't care how cold it is, it'll fire right up.
 
Tractors are finicky, like women. You have to rub them just right, take them out to dinner, put a heater on their oil pan, stroke them a little and tell them that they are your favorite tractor. Then rub them in the right places, and put the key in and start their motors.
It works for me.
 
I buy tractor gas after it turns cold, like 10 degrees F. That is the winter formula and add Sta-bil or other type gas preserver and have a good battery.
 
A number of factor come into play. Gas does not atomize as well when cold. Engines take more battery power to spin the engine over which can reduce spark which also in turn causes engine compression build up to be lower
 
We had a '36 WC that had just the opposite problem. It was our winter manure hauler because it started so well in cold weather. No engine pre-heater at all. Hand crank, magneto with impulse coupler to retard and intensify spark for atarting, clutch locked down, full choke, 1/4 turn with crank and it was running. So much for "fuel atomization" theories.
 
Have to keep the trickle charger on my gas tractors to have
enough battery power. Some sort of block heater helps too.
My pony start diesels are my favorite in the winter. Actually
they are my favorite anytime.
 
Is the choke closing ALL the way, not just close, but ALL the way? Like others said the starter draws more juice and the battery is weaker, so if something in the ignition is weak it won't fire a mixture that needs more fire because it's cold and the fuel is not atomized as well.

I have a 62 rambler with the 196 cu six banger that won't start if it's below zero no matter how well it's tuned up, if it's not plugged in. Jim
 
Engines are harder to start in cold weather because:

battery output drops as the temperature drops

oil viscosity increases as temperature decreasesand thus power requirements to rotate the engine increase.

gas evaporation is reduced by reduced temperature

Spark is decreased because during starting cycle, battery voltage drops lower as the temperature is reduced due to increased starting loads and reduced battery output.
 
My general procedure for starting my hand crank John Deeres is to crank about three compressions with the choke on, then go get the chain saws, gas and oil them, load the trailer. THEN go back and crank the tractor. 9 times out of 10 it will start right up because the gasoline in the cylinders has evaporated and will ignite readily.
 
My I-2444 will not start since to got colder without a shot of some starting fluid to assist it. It will restart just fine if if the engine is warm. It will be like this until I add some fresh gasoline. The fuel that is in the tank was from last summer. Besides being a summer blend of gasoline it also has had several months to evaporate off the lighter ends of the gasoline blend. Once I add fresh fuel that is blended for winter use it will start on its own to about -10°F. This has been the same pattern for many years since I don't use the tractor much other than moving snow.
 
agreed with all said,,COLD changes EVERYTHIN ,,, Steel Will BECOME brittle as GLASS in Subzero weather ,gassers rule when it gets that damcold around here , I let the diesels sleep when its that cold ..I .ALWAYS tarp the radiator of my daily runner feeding tractor ..especially the diesels when the temps flirt with freezing ,,the warmer the motor the less stress on the engine .....funny how the electronic ignition DC starts rite up with out choke in cold weather , that hot spark really puts some A$$ in the horsepower of the DC,... the Case 730 gasser cranks rite up with choke ,,. and begs for choke every whip stitch til it warms up good ,,The Case 511B starts with choke , and hammers and yammers and hems and haws til it warms up good,,no choking seems to help ,,just got to be fast on the clutch ,when it stammers and misses and hiccups ....
 
I have a 1948 WD and it starts at 0 deg. I have a heavy duty 6V battery, extra heavy duty cables,good starter, and a hot magneto. So it can be done.
 
You may have a minute vacuum leak that when it gets cold the parts shrink and may make the vacuum leak worse thus not being able to create enough vacuum to suck in the fuel thru the carb. One area which is over looked a lot is the butterfly shaft in the carb. This can create one heck of a vacuum leak but it also causes an unstable idle.
 
One of my most reliable Fords wouldn't start today.
Seems warm or cold they still want gas in the tank. :oops:
 
Maybe it's just protesting against the cold as it wants to got to Arizona for the winter?
 
A cold engine turns over slower. Battery only has
half its power at 0 degrees F. Slower engine means
the electrical system drops to 9 volts or less (if
a 12 volt system) or drops so 4.5 volts or less
(if a 6 volt system).
That produces less maximum spark energy IF a
battery-coil system. Possibly NO spark IF a
breakerless/electronic conversion. If a magneto
systems and the impulse coupler works - the
cranking speed has no effect. If the impulse does
not work - it has a huge effect.

A slower cranking engine also results in less
compression and more chances for small leaks to
seep past piston rings and engine valves.

A cold engine with a carburetor has trouble with
atomized fuel sticking to the cold walls of the
intake manifold and not making it all the way to
the combustion chamber.

A cold gas engine with a properly working carb and
choke winds up with an over-rich fuel mixture in
the combustion chamber. That requires more voltage
to fire. Sometimes 30,000 volts instead of 10-
15,000 volts. If the ignition is not perfect -it
may not be up to the job.

A diesel? Since a diesel relies on compression to
make enough heat for self-ignition - it's pretty
easy to see why cold starting can be a huge
problem. That why many have electric aux heaters
like glow plugs or grid-heaters or intake-manifold
heaters.
 
This could be living proof that tractors are smarter than people?
Or, like the seafoam thread fights... this might be why ether is still sold by the pallet in cold climates?
When I was into AC's, all? not nearly all, but all 6 needed a quick partial choke even in summer, so a shot of starting fluid and one hand on the choke rod till all 4 are hitting steady was a common if not an everyday thing in cold weather. Yeah 15F is cold especially for modern mix gas.
 
When it gets cold I always pull the switch on and turn the lights on for 30 to 60 seconds before trying to start. Warms everything up good and will usually start fine if everything else is tuned properly.
 
Ever since I converted the old H to 12v with existing 6v starter it's good to at least 5 above that I know of. Now I've got peace of mind.
mvphoto1208.jpg
 
Many reasons,
Use thinner oil, needs to crank faster, 12v does that
Bad compression, burnt valves, plugs get wet, need compression to generate enough heat in air for fuel to ingite.

I once had an air cooled VW that eat exhaust valves. It would start when warm, but not when it was cold.

Report back after you do a compression test.
 
(quoted from post at 11:22:50 11/24/13) When it gets cold I always pull the switch on and turn the lights on for 30 to 60 seconds before trying to start. Warms everything up good and will usually start fine if everything else is tuned properly.

Serious or just trying to be funny?
 
I heard of that.I know you can burn out headlites on cars with 3 brush generators if the lites are turned on too soon after the engine starts.The cold battery does not load the generator right away.It happened to my 36 once.Ford service bulletins never mention the problem but Victor Pages book on the Ford V8 covers the problem.Some think that turning on the headlites wakes up the cold battery.
 

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