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560 cuts out

J

Jeff S.

New User
I have a Farmall 560 that will only run at an idle with the choke wide open while its cold, once it warms up it dies. Is this most likely a carburetor problem or something else?
 
Could be crude anywhere in the fuel system with the way todays gas is. I've had a couple of tractors that won''t run long and both had a jelly like material in the fuel line. I also had my M do like your describing in the winter and it needed new points. I'd start with the gas - take the plug out of the carb and see what kind of flow you get.
 
Just recently cleaned the sediment bowl. I also took the fuel line off the carburetor and checked the flow and the inlet screen. I'm not sure what the flow rate needs to be but it came out at a pretty good rate and the screen was clean.
 
I did, not sure how to gage how much flow is needed but it is flowing at what appears to be a good gravity flow rate to the eye. I haven't taken the fuel lines off and checked them for slim yet but I'm going to next. Thanks
 
It is possible that the needle valve is partially stuck in the seat. Sometimes you can "unstick" it by rapping on the front of the carb, just underneath where the governor tube attaches. A small hammer, or better yet, use the handle of a large screwdriver.

Fuel problems quite often will mimic ignition problems, and vice-versa, so don't rule out a weak ignition coil.
 
Rule of thumb for the older tractors is that you need a steady stream, as opposed to a drip or even a fast drip. But unless it just pours out of there, I'd think about removing the sediment bulb fixture from the tank (after rigging a funnel to route the resulting gush of gas to a suitable container), and see how it looks.
 
No one mentioned that you may have a vacuum leak. I assume this is a 560 Gas Tractor and not Diesel. If it's a Diesel disregard this post.

With the engine running spray WD-40 on the vacuum side of the carburetor where ever there is a gasket such as between the carb and manifold and between manifold and the head.

If the engine changes RPMS when WD-40 is sprayed then you have a vacuum leak. Starting Fluid can be used to do the same thing but risk of FIRE is too great. So this is why I say use WD40.
 
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