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Update on EFI for MH44

D

David G

Well-known Member
I have been fighting an issue with getting good timing signal for a LONG time.

The issue is that there is about .030 wobble in the front pulley. This is where the timing wheel bolts to. The pickup does not like more than .030 of clearance, so it reads good on one side, then does not on the other. I either need a pickup that supports a greater distance, or am checking if a thicker wheel will give me a better signal.

I only get to work on this when everything else is done, so it amounts to a few minutes a week.
 
is there any way that you can add shims between the pickup wheel and the crank pulley? Add shims on one side to make the pickup run true?
 
The pickup is adjustable to set clearance to the timing wheel. The issue is that it hits in one place and has too much clearance on the other side.
 
Do you have a later or a radial runout? You might be able to take that front pulley to a machine shop and have it trued up.
 
We used a 35 tooth wheel and sensor from a Ford. Machined the backside of the original pulley to fit it when got it timed dtc put a couple of bolts in it. I think we ended up setting it at 45 thousands. Did you use a shielded wire back to the box? Ford even used a shield over the connector. This one has won quite a few pulls this past summer.
 
Vic,

Did you use the plastic or threaded metal sensor? It appears the metal sensor is limited to 1.5mm gap, but the plastic one goes to 5mm.

I am using the threaded metal.
 
David I used to play with Rat rods. An we would put EFI on them. The dampener pulleys just about always had some run out in them. I made a jig that bolted to the front timing cover and had a slide with a holder for a lathe cutter. So I just trued the dampener OD on the engine.

I usually did this with the factory ignition still on the engine. So I just let it run at an idle and cut the OD.

I bet that you could get it closer than the .030 it is now with a large flat file and a steady rest.
 
If the pulley can be taken off, have it turned true, and put a ring shim between the centering ring of the pulley, and the sensor wheel. Jim
 
Dave,

Old Iowa is spot on. You"re not trying to turn it down, just true it up a little.

IIRC you have a toothed wheel you put on. Axial or radial runout shouldn"t be too hard to get out, assuming the pulley is not really wobbling.

Rick
 
Possible to trigger it off flywheel ? Of Course it would mean pulling it and machining trigger notch . Lot of work, lot easier to true up pulley trigger I guess .
 
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