bolt sizes, length

Need to replace the fender retaining bolts on my ford jubilee to secure the rear mounts for the Paulson loader I bought.Anybody know how the size and length of these bolts? I think they are carriage bolts
Need to know the size , thread, and app. lengths h of the bolt that secures the front crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft .Have to remove nut that with the hand crank and replace it with a bolt that
will clear the flex coupling for the pump drive shaft.Learned from Old that the nut is standard right hand thread. I would like to know size, app. length and if it is fine or coarse thread
My tractor is 100 miles from our place in Seattle Wa

I have found out the bolt sizes that retain the fenders on an 8N , 9N, and probably 2N and a Jubilee. They are carriage bolts, 6 1/4 long, 5/8 in size. 4 required.

The bolt that has the ears for engaging the hand crank on the front of the crankshaft is a standard right hand thread 5/8" N.C. I think it is about 2" long, but that may vary with the thickness of the hub of your replacement pulley. If I was going to drive 100 miles to change the crank stud out, I'd bring a selection of bolt lengths from 1 1/2" to 2 1/2" grade 5 5/8" N.C. with appropriate washers. The fender bolts do not have to be carriage bolts. Unless you go to a tractor dealer, you will probably not find grade 5 carriage bolts. The "standard" carriage bolts are a much softer steel and will probably stretch over time making the fenders loose or rattely. I have used standard hex head grade 5 5/8" bolts for this application. The bolt length needed will vary with your loader and stabilizer brackets, so I'd bring a selection of them as well.

All this is from memory, and I can't find my parts book right now to confirm, so you may want to check with some other sources.

Good Luck!

Paul in MN

Hi Paul,

I live in Seattle and the Jubilee is at our place which is on Orcas island. I will take a selection of bolts and washers. Have good access to a variety of bolts here in Seattle. One of my other concerns is having enough parts and the correct parts to assemble the flex pulley to the crankshaft pulley for driving the shaft which drives the hydraulic pump. Hopefully I will be able to do the necessary removing and assembling things needed to the crankshaft pulley without removing the front end of the tractor. Found out that Farmland Tractor in Oregon, had most of the parts I needed to connect the hydraulic pump to the crankshaft pulley. Flex adapters for both the crankshaft and the pump, and shaft to drive the pump. I was not able to find a flex coupling to connect the shaft that came with the loader to the crankshaft pulley. Also ordered a variety of parts from our host. I certainly appreciate your informaton. Had to make pieces out of 2 x 1/4 inch angle to attach to the end of the loader frame. These pieces will bolt under the axle in the same place as the ends of the loader frame. I"ll need to modify my stabilizer bars to make them fit. Have the old ones and will practice with these prior to cutting my new stabilizer bars. I"ll use your suggestion about using grade 5 standard bolts for attaching things together. Fenders and supports for the ends of the loader frame. The loader is very sturdy so will definitely need to have a counterweight. It was interesting to me that Old, one of the people who use the forum has a backhoe and loader on an 8N.

I have never seen or heard of a Paulson loader,so I may be wrong.ALL the loaders on Fords and Fergusons I have ever seen the brackets go on top of the axle between the fenders and axle and your stab.brackets go on as normal under the axle.Might check to make sure before you start cutting your bars.

Massey,
I also had never heard of a paulson loader until about a month ago. I was using the forum to find out what type of loader would fit on my jubilee. The tractor had a wagner loader on it which made it difficult to get on the tractor. Please check out the picture of the paulson loader included with my reply. I have been told that paulson loaders are still being built in Minnesota. I have been unable to contact the company. Paulson loader I have has has a front mounted pump and hydraulics for the bucket.
I found out these things could be added to the standard paulson loader which had a trip bucket and was powered by the tractors hydraulics.
Please note that the picture shows the rear of the loader frame being connected under the rear axle using the fender bolts.

Ejensen,

I am a bit familiar with the Paulson loader. The company that built it is (was?) in the same town my son lives in, and is about 15 miles from my place. I have not installed a Paulson loader, but I have operated N tractors with the Paulson on them. Be careful, as the bucket is not self leveling, and as you raise the load up high, it can come back over the top edge of the bucket and crash the hood or operator of the tractor. Yup, I learned that the hard way, but was lucky to not get hurt. With the hydraulic bucket, you can keep adjusting the bucket floor to keep it approximately parallel with the ground. The trip bucket I was using did not have that possibility.

The Paulson loader is much more convenient to access the driver position on the tractor. It was a giant step forward compared to the jungle jim design of the Dearborn loader circa N series tractors.

If you are going to extend the rear mounting frame of the loader at the rear axle, I would not use any metal stock lighter than 3/8" thick, and would feel a whole lot safer with 1/2". A good friend of ours recently had a tractor/loader accident in which the rear axle mount on his Farmhand loader showed metal fatigue and while he was lifting a round bale over the 5' high fence, that piece broke on one side and the loader crashed down nearly flipping the tractor on its side. He was very lucky that the bottom of the bucket landed on top of a stout wood fence post, and that limited the twist and flip of the tractor. He was pretty shook up and dearly needed some new underware, but survived the incident. His tractor was a Farmall 350 with wide front and rear wheel weights, but the results would probably be the same or worse on any other brand. The strength of the rear axle mounts is critical to the safe installation of the loader.

Don't modify the length of your stabilizer bars until you are absolutely sure. The pivot pins for the stabilizer bars must be in a straight line with the mounting studs for the 3 pt arms. They can not be higher or lower, nor forward or back from that imaginary line. If they are not on this line (extending out from the mounting stud towards the wheel), then the stabilizer bars will bind up and may damage the 3 pt arms or lift as the implement goes up and down. If your loader frame mounts under the axle, then the stabilizer brackets will need to be shortened or redrilled to set the pins up higher by the thickness of the loader mount. The bolts you use for the fenders and loader mounts will probably be available in 1/2" increments in length so I'd bring 7" and 7 1/2" lengths. You will find the extra length to be an advantage as you try to assemble fenders, loader frame and stabilizer brackets.

Most important ... be safe!!

Paul in MN

Hi Paul
I was able to buy 7 inch carriage bolts in grade 5 from Ballard Hardware here in seattle. Appreciate your thoughts on the stabilizer bars.
Including a picture of the new stabilizer bars on my ford jubilee.
Bought a selection of 5/8 grade 5 bolts to secure the front crankshaft pulley. I had the parts sent to my place on Orcas Island . A friend of mine checked the clearance for the adapter and told me that it went rignt in place. Will need to remove the 4 bolts that are in the pulley and attach the flex coupling for the pump driveshaft . Will probably need different lengh bolts. Again thanks for the information about using the loader. The only loader I have now is on my 1957 case 320 industrial . The backhoe provides plenty of weight to the back end on the tractor and it does have power steering.

Hi again Paul,

Have been rereading your information which is great. It is not my intention to extend the loader frame. Problem I have if you look at the picture of where my stabilizer bars attach under the rear axle this is the exact place the rear ends of the loader frame attach on each side. I was thinking of adding a piece of angle iron to attach on the bottom of the loader frame where it attaches to the place where the stabilizer bracket used to attach. Doing this will make it necessary for me to shorten the stabilizzer bars. I have the old bars so thought I would practice with them and set the new stabilizer bars aside. I certainly can see what you are saying about binding. The bars need to move up and down smoothly with the 3 point or they will bind.