Dodge Cummins battery drain

fixerupper

Well-known Member
I pulled the batteries out of the 98 Dodge Cummins 24 valve, had them on the floor and then decided to put one back in and do a quick check for battery drain from the pickup. With everything electrical turned off there is a slight very light spark when I rub the battery cable end on the battery post and there's a faint click sound coming from the starter area. Is this normal? It has to be dark for me to see the spark but there's also a very slight sparking sound when I rub the battery wire on the battery post. I know all vehicles draw a little but the light click from the starter area perked up my attention. In the past this pickup has sat for a month at a time and always started, even in cold weather with pre-heating. Now it needs to be boosted if it sits three days. I'm still suspecting the batteries since they tested bad with the hydrometer after charging, but I'm covering all bases. Thanks. Jim
 
Your working on something new now not and old tractor that when you turn EVERYTHING OFF there is no drain. Even way back if a car - truck had a CLOCK you would get a small sparkwhile hooking up the battery cables, NOW today the computer take a little and the clock in the radio takes a little so yep it will spark . Also even IF you have brand new batterys if you let it set long enough it will be dead .
 
This new stuff drives me nuts from draining batteries when sitting. I have several things that don't get used much.

That noise you heard at the starter ? Wonder if it could be some bad or loose connections down there ? Won't hurt to take them off and clean them up. The alt. may feed off there ? If so they drain alot when sitting.
 
Measure the current drain with am ampmeter, there should be a few milliamp drain. I would not expect to hear a click.
 
Jim, load test your batteries. Clean all connections including all
grounds. Lastly, google dodge cummins alternator diode
testing. Also, look on mopar1973man dot com. Very
knowledgable guy on these trucks.
 
I know there's always a slight draw but to be honest I've never checked draw on a vehicle so I have nothing to compare it to. I didn't have time to check the amperage draw because I had to get Marilyn to a Dr appt. The click is what caught my attention. I didn't see anything else in the starter area that should click besides the starter. The click sounds like a very small relay. Thanks for the prompt replies. After i made the post i threw the batteries in the pickup and took off for town. I'm in the dr waiting room checking your responses with the smartphone.Jim
 
what year is your truck?

If it has some age to it (early-mid 1990's for example) it is likely to have a computer going bad somewhere IF its draining the battery. Not surprised to hear a click. My early Chryslers always did.

If you can still go a month without the battery going bad you are fine. Don't worry about it.

If you are getting a bad drain (2-3-4 days the battery is dead) put a meter between the post and the cable but turn EVERYTHING off. If it is a high drain (more than just a few mili-amps) start pulling fuses and recheck. One of mine had a bad overhead computer (mileage, temp, compas). worked fine but would kill a battery in 2 days if not driven.
 
As others have said there is always something
draining small amount of current. That is why our
loocal dealer disconects electrical system on new
vehicles in his lot.
Also if batteries drain quickly you might check
wiring at trailer hitch. A 1998 has some age an salt
may have gotten in wiring an shorted them with
corossion especally if some are hanging there
loose.
 
It is very easy to be fooled when trying to diagnose a draw. Most modern cars will make that spark, and will draw anywhere from a few tenths to a full couple amps, for up to 20 minutes in some cases ! This is powering up modules and so forth, which then are supposed to go asleep and settle into a milli-amp draw. The only way I have found to be accurate in this, is to use a sensitive amp meter that allows current to flow, at least 10 amps minimum. You cant rely on a test light or the fact that it sparks to really tell you whats going on. Fluke has a good meter for this. If you exceed that 10 amps by turning on the lights or key, the fuse in the meter blows. Hook it up between the battery post and cable end, then walk away for 1/2 hour or so and come back and observe the meter reading. Has to be very low draw, as in milli-amps. A .1 or .2 amp reading will bring a good battery down in a day or two.
 

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