JD B, what should I do?

Bryce Frazier

Well-known Member
Alright guys, I need some help... I have this 1947 JD B that most of you have seen ( attached is a pic )and I am unsure of what to do and would like a few opinions! Here is the situation:
AntiFreze leaks from manifold bolts
Gas leak from bottom of tank
Generator doesn't work
Ringgear and starter are about worn out
Lights / wiring don't work
Wico Model C Mag failed on me, should I buy and X?
and there is still more...
I personally like the hand start JDs over the electric starter, so here are my thoughts:

Option 1, fix everything and make it all work right.

Option 2, fix engine problems, remove everything
electric (lights, gen, starter, etc.) and put on a hand start flywheel, re paint everything, remove the hood extension panels, and battery and stuff, and just put the end cap on the hood, and change the operators pedestal form a dash to just a stick for the steering shaft.

If i can get all of the parts I need to switch it to hand start $150 or under, what do you guys think I should do? I would really like to know your personally pros and cons of this plan! Thanks in advance, here is a pic! Bryce
a134023.jpg
 
hello it is a nice tractor. I would restore. gas tank can be cleaned and sealed, stuff is readily available. Antifreeze is a different story. could be as simple as a new gasket, could be a lot worse. you need to have a look(remove heads) generators can be rebuilt. maybe even as simple as brushes and bearings(bronze sleeves) It is an old tractor and the wiring probably needs a bit of work. Do it one wire at a time. good luck.
 
How many tractors you got anyway? I thought you were fixing grandpa's TO20 or something? Advice? OK. Sell this and the dorF and buy parts for the fergie.... see? That was easy.
 
I would go with option #1. That machine looks too nice to take it backwards! The only problems that could possibly be costly are the leak from manifold bolts, (and that may not be too serious, as Kris mentioned,) and the magneto. A flywheel ring gear is available from this site if the serial number falls in line. The wiring is more time consuming than anything else. It looks and sounds like an opportunity for one heck of a learning experience if you ask me.
BTW, I am sure there are others closer to you, but there is a man here in central NC that specializes in rebuilding magnetos. If you care to shoot me an Email, I can send you his address.
 
Go for option 1. If you go for option 2, you are destroying the history of the tractor, making it into something it never was.
Just my 2 cents worth ( I think thats what you say in the USA! ) Phil
 
Okay here"s my story on the leaking manifold. I have a 1940 JD B and I went to replce the manifold about 3 years ago. We ended up draining and refilling the cooling system at least 8 time until we got it all figured out. Here"s what we found:
1. If the parts book lists copper washers then use them. Tried steel and leaked all over. They are avaliable at most auto parts stores.
2. Another JD guy said to just go buy the proper length bolts and some gasket maker, spead the gasket maker on the threads and torque and you will be fine. Didn"t work, leaked all over.

In the end I know of a company that produces after market manifold studs and nut to JD spec. Using them and the copper washers, where called for, it all sealed up and no problems since. What we found is today"s bolts are slightly thinner than the bolts/studs used back when your tractor was built. Also the nuts were about twice as big, so those used with the copper gaskets sealed where as todays nust being so small actually cupped the washer when it was torques allowing for leakage. I don"t know the exact manifold set up for that tractor, but I would guess it"s fairly similar.
 
Well, the wiring is all brand new (bought a harness) the engine is completely brand new, everything on the tractor has been re built or replaced! I think I am going to try to save it, you guys made me realize that I should keep it the way it is and not turn it into something it is not. I now have 11 tractors, this is the second one I restored, the third was the JD 40 single wheeler, and now the NEIGHBORS, TO-30, close though! :) Thanks for your help guys, I will have to get you some pics in the spring when done! Bryce
 
If you want a hand start with no light buy one that way, do not destroy the value of what you have by trying to change things.
 
Hehehe, nice. :) I had an option to trade this for a wartime JD B no electrics, full steel, completely restored, wish I could have gone for it! I would have in a heart beat, but this tractor was donated to me by the local tractor club after it was donated to them, and they didn't want it! I have put a lot of love in this tractor, but it still brings a tear to my eye when I see the sun set over it's hood. ;) Bryce
 
If you don't want to fix the starter and ring gear, you can still start this tractor by hand. They were set up so could take an old steering wheel and add a short shaft which would engage the crank ratchet on the flywheel. That way you can still get what you want without destroying the integrity of the tractor itself for the next guy.
 
Yep that is a good thought too. I already have one of those cranks installed, and a good friend of mine made me a T shaped stick that goes in and you can then use to start the tractor. This is actually how we have been starting the tractor because I removed the battery and all of the guts inside the hood extensions. Bryce
 
I'm a big fan of keeping them intact, and not turning it into something it isn't.

Besides - does it have the compression reliefs? If not - hand starting's going to be tougher than you might expect, especially if the rings are good.



Consider how you use the tractor too. My biggest problem with hand start tractors is living in perpetual fear of stalling it at a stop light, etc.

we hay a lot of fields, and spend a lot of time on the roads between them


...Stall - lock the brakes, hop down, spin it a bunch of times, pray it starts, hop up, ulock the brakes... that all feels like an eternity when there's a line of angry drivers behind you.

Granted - it's not easy to stall a jd with a hand clutch - but if you're pulling a load and in road gear - it happens.

starters are nice.
 

The 2-Cylinder engine stops at just about the same position every time and that is where the Ring-Gear gets worn.
Take the flywheel off and heat the Ring-Gear to about 400-450 Degrees and it will easily tap off the flywheel.
Be SURE to have Marked the original location, so you know where to re-install it 180 degrees away from the original position..
And, if that is not an option, Reverse the Ring-Gear and grind a new bevel on each tooth..

Ron..
 

I find that Two (2) small propane torches heat the Ring-gear to the desired temp easily..
Using one on each side of the ring-gear, one in each hand..

Ron..
 
Bite the bullet, buy the correct stud for the manifold from Deere. The threads on the block end are slightly oversize to seal in the head. Use a sealant when you put them in and your leaks will be gone. Original book called for white lead, but other sealants will work fine. While you are at it have the manifold and head re-surfaced, if you haven't already done it. The manifold/head gasket joint is a favorite place for old 2 cylinders to leak, and if everything is not perfectly flat it won't take long. My 1948 D is in the barn with a manifold gasket leak right now, and that is what I will have to do next week.
 
I thought the slant dash B was semi-rare. If you really wanted a hand crank B then sell this one and purchase what you want but please don't make this one into something it isn't.
 

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