Tractors stops runing after it gets to normal running temp

I'm working on a Ford 850 tractor that's been sitting for about 3 years uncovered I have finally gotten it running but have ran into a problem, after it runs long enough to reach normal running temp it dies, here's what I've done so far, converted to a complete 12 volt system, I've replaced the points and condenser cleaned out the inside of the distributor, replaced the plug wires, replaced the coil (12 volt), broke the carburetor down and soaked it in carb. cleaner for 3+ hours (this is a Zenith Carb), after all that it still runs till it reaches normal running temp and dies, when it's cold it cranks with no problem and after it reaches normal temp and dies it still cranks real easy and runs good for a few moments then dies, I did notice one thing when it dies, the governor will bring it back down to almost idle speed before it dies, I would greatly appreciate and ideas any body can send my way.
 
When the engine die's Check for spark. You may have a defective coil or condenser, Even though you replaced them. I've gotten new condenser's that were bad. Dave F.
 
Remembered one thing I forgot to mention, it does this when it is ran at a high idle (about 1000) or when it is just at idle, I run it at an high idle to make sure it is going to run good when I work it,
Again Thanks for any replies
 
I thought about that Dave and did replace the points and condenser still dies and when it dies I don't have to wait to crank it, it cranks easy immediately after it dies, so I think that would rule out no spark, am I correct in that thinking,

Thanks
 
Ok Rabbit, I'm not trying to be a smart butt or anything like that but how does the fuel cap have an effect on this kind of issue, just a question of curiosity and likely a learning question.
Thanks
 
If the cap isn't venting properly the tank builds a vacume and gas won't flow. When it dies the tank will catch up enough to let it start again. Could also be the tank has trash in it.

Lots of possibilities, but sounds like fuel flow could be restricted.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
In order for fuel to flow OUT of the gas tank, AIR must be able to get IN. It is a simple law of physics.

This is accomplished by incorporating a small vent hole into the gas tank cap, or in the case of your Ford, there may be another source of ventilation which can also become plugged up. REMOVING the gas cap will let you know if the problem is indeed a plugged ventilation source.
 
Not familiar with fords - but does it by any chance have an automatic choke?

I ask because "soaking" a carb usually does very little to clean it. You usually need to run something through all the little passageways, especially the small, hard to find ones!

If the carb IS fine, I'd suspect the coil.
 
Only takes a good battery and starter to crank, so I'd look at the condenser or coil.

Unless you mean it starts up right away when hot, but you said it cranks right away?

Paul
 
I have heard of sometime's depending on the condition of the exhaust shield that the gas in the fuel tube coming from the tank to the carb is getting too hot if the shield is not protecting it. I would lean to the gas cap, just take it off while sitting at working temp. Like the others have said, even though new, a new rotor and new cap, it can have a crack in it, though i would lean towards the gas cap, coil, dist cap,in that order. good luck, Kent
 
Is it possible you need a resistor before the coil? My 12v converted Farmall H coil(12v) was getting very hot before I put a resistor inline. It never died but would run rough when hot. Seems to run better now.
 
Others have pretty well outlined what I was going to say. Checking fuel cap for proper venting is a pretty quick, easy, thing to do. Sometimes solves the problem, sometimes you have to look elsewhere.
 
I'd say check the cap too. I color coded caps on my small equip so the non English speaking guys knew what mixed fuel or straight fuel went in equip. Then color coded the gas cans too. We weren't supposed to paint over the little vent hole on the small engine caps, but some did. They ran real good for about 15 minutes.....
 
Thanks for all the info but now I have a bigger problem, I went out to start the tractor and try the fuel cap idea and as I was trying to start it the bendix gear cracked on the starter, I've searched around on the web but so far only found one through Amazon but I'm kind of gun shy of it because of a customers comment on it, does anyone know of a place where I can get a good quality bendix for a Ford 850 starter. I got lucky no parts fell off the starter.
Again, thanks for all the help
 
When the engine quits running disconnect the gas line from the tank to your carburetor and see if there's a full stream of gas from the tank. Use a good flashlight and see if any crud is covering the fuel outlet in the tank. Hal
PS: There may be a screen behind the tube fitting where your gas line connects that could be blocking fuel flow.
 
Any good auto parts store, such as NAPA, should have the starter parts you need. You might even try the parts section right here on YT.
 
Several posters have told you that vacuum can stop fuel flow.Take a glass of water and put a straw in the water.Cover the top of the straw with your finger, pull the straw out of the water.Does the water flow out of the straw?Basic stuff that most kids know.
 

A few basics: Don't condemn your ignition system and start replacing parts until you have determined that there is no spark. Don't condemn your fuel system and start dismantling until you have determined that there is no fuel at the bottom of your carburetor. Check for spark at plugs and post back. Check for a strong flow of gas from drain at bottom of carb for a good thirty seconds and post back.
 
A couple quick tests to determine if it's fuel or spark that's missing when it dies and won't restart will save a lot of speculation and dead ends... such as give a quick shot of starting fluid into the carb - if it fires at all your problem is fuel, not spark...
 

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