another stuck engine

Yes, this is another information request regarding a stuck engine. I have a Farmall Super H that the previous owner allowed to sit out without an exhaust cap. I have taken the head off and dropped the oil pan. I have cleaned out the cylinder sleeves and let it all soak in Marvel Mystery oil. I have pulled the caps off of number 1 and 4 pistons. With a block of wood and hammer I have tried to drive them out. They have not even begun to move. They seem to be welded in. Help please. I need new ideas.

Mix up 1 to 1 gas or diesel and ATF, then pour a little into each cylinder (1/4th of a cup at most) and light it on fire, then walk away. Let it burn completely out, cool, and then try to beat on pistons with block and hammer, if it don't go, then mix up another batch and watch her burn! I have heard of people doing this a bunch of times, seems to work really well. Hope it helps! Bryce

Are they alumium pistons,If so they probally are welded and are usally tough to free up

jimmy

ATF and acetone 50/50 mix to soak awhile. The propane torch to piston tops and let cool cycle a few times with the extra lube squirted to cylinder walls-not the hot piston tops. A chunk of 2x4 or fire wood block that fits top of piston and a 10 pound hammer from the Harley shop. Chains or rods around block stopping hydraulic jack set on top of the wood blocks on piston- then pump up jack to force down the piston if it doesn't break. Some but not extreme jack pressure on top of piston then taps with hammer to get some vibration to flake off rust on rings to cylinder wall. aluminum and iron cylinder liners corrosion is hard film interference but somewhat lesser bind than steel ring to steel liner rust. couple wood blocks from the bottom like a forked tenon or 2 large sticks at sides of rod clamped together and then jack pressure from bottom to get some movement- don't do this for TDC piston if ridge is much interference. 1/4 teaspoon of gasoline to top of piston and light it- alcohal can work some also- this is lesser alternative to propane torch. Alcohal burner, small camp cooker from bottom to heat piston and cylinder walls, then put some heated engine oil or ATF/Acetone or shot of PB Blaster to edge of piston, cylinder walls and top of piston to cool it quicker than the heated cylinder walls/liner. Have fun, keep large fire extinguisher and bandaids handy. RN

What I do with one like that is I use ATF only no extra stuff let it sit a week or so. Then I pour in a little gas and light the mix up and do that a few times till you can see the piston top then try to drive it up or down. Lighting the ATF/Gas mix warms the sleeves but not the piston so you get a loosening effect

I have tried this stuff myself (yet) but my guess it would be a better choice to loosen up rusted rings. I plan on getting a coupla gallon soon to clean up some machine parts.
Metal Rescue

Worst case you may need to push the sleeve and cylinder out as a unit, then cut the sleeve off the piston with a torch to get at the rod.

For this you all you need is a bottle jack and that block you were beating on before.

(quoted from post at 08:57:01 10/29/13) Yes, this is another information request regarding a stuck engine. I have a Farmall Super H that the previous owner allowed to sit out without an exhaust cap. I have taken the head off and dropped the oil pan. I have cleaned out the cylinder sleeves and let it all soak in Marvel Mystery oil. I have pulled the caps off of number 1 and 4 pistons. With a block of wood and hammer I have tried to drive them out. They have not even begun to move. They seem to be welded in. Help please. I need new ideas.

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There, every now and then has come a time, when I have had to bust them out in pieces. Bust them out and buy a used set on Ebay.

The pistons are aluminum. Will the gas/atf melt them?

If heat does not work try dropping a chunk of dry ice on top of the piston and wait a while.I have had success with this method a couple of times with aluminum pistons.

Hate to be the rain on parade cuz I hope one of the mentioned methods work for you. I had the identical situation and nothing freed it up. Finally cut the rods with torch so I could turn crankshaft so I could get at the pistons just to discover a hole in #1 cylinder the size of a golf ball, you win some and loose some......hope you win, post back results and methods

No they will not melt since the block takes 90% of the heat and the liquid as it burns off does not let the pistons get all that hot. If you think about it how hot does the top of the pistons get every time an engine fires and the mix of ATF and gas will not come close to that heat

Bolt the head back on and pick a cylinder that is close to the top. Take the spark plug and knock the ceramic out and weld a pipe nipple to it then adapt a grease zerk to it and pump away. It works like a dream and you can reclaim most of the grease. A lever grease gun will put 2000 psi out IT WILL MOVE!

Do what Old suggested as the heat will free them.Hal PS: Make sure there's nothing flammable nearby. I would move it away from any building. Only do one piston at a time.
You can loosen all the rod caps. Use a piece of 2 X 2 oak and a big hammer.

dont laugh but phillips. milk of magnisum. will soak it loose over nite ,dont know whats in it but it use to work ,dont know if it is still avaible. .9