O/T: '90 F250 7.3 trans shudder update

New filter, refilled with 2 gallons and 3 quarts of fluid. Old fluid had a slight brown tint but the pan was very clean.

Shudder problem is improved but not cured. As much fluid as this system holds, do I need more than one tube of the Dr. Tranny's Shudder Fix? There was no dilution info on the package.

jdemaris: when you say "limp-in" mode, I assume you mean like a gasser that locks into 2nd gear when it has a trans issue? I haven't wrenched on diesels much and want to be sure I'm understanding what you mean. Because no, it doesn't do that. It definitely runs through all the gears. I haven't had time yet to investigate the FIPL switch that you mentioned.

Now, here's the interesting part: it doesn't do it all the time. Under light throttle, it's a light, long shudder; stops as soon as you let up on the gas even a tiny bit. Under heavy throttle, it's a sharper but much shorter shudder that usually stops without letting up on the pedal. And sometimes, under light or heavy throttle, it doesn't do it at all. So...what's the magic answer?

This truck runs great, would really like to solve the trans problem.

Thanks to all, your time and assistance is appreciated.


Anthony
Original post

I'm not usually into snake oil, but I swear by Lucas transmission products. Throw a bottle of that in it and you will notice a change shortly.

I agree.

Did you tighten the bands in the tranny ? I've never been in a ford tranny but I've done several dodge and Chevy trannys. Usually tranny shudder is associated with the torque converter. Really a simple process to change. I'd start with the bands first. Find out what tranny you've got then use Dr.Google for the process.

No, I didn't tighten the bands. Previous owner is an older gentleman who rarely used the truck and installed a Ford rebuilt trans two years ago. Would band adjustment be necessary? I suppose, if all else fails, I can drop the pan again and try it.

Thanks,

Anthony

(quoted from post at 20:02:09 10/11/13) I'm not usually into snake oil, but I swear by Lucas transmission products. Throw a bottle of that in it and you will notice a change shortly.

Click to expand...

X2

Does it change with fluid temperature? If it does, it sounds like the seals are getting hard especially with lift foot upshifts. Higher RPM's create more pressure to apply clutches.

No change; acts the same cold and warm.

Thanks,

Anthony

what you are describing sounds a lot like a bad convertor, I have rebuilt a lot of the early E4OD ford transmissions and have seen this before, usually turns out to be a bad convertor, but can be caused by a bad solenoid pack. Usaully a bad solenoid pack will set a code and flash the OD light.

If the truck is in good shape and worth fixing a reman convertor usually runs about $350 to $450, the 2 wheel drive E4OD trans is pretty easy to remove if you have any mechanical skills at all.

Been my experience that the "quick fix in a can" may help but usually the problem will come back later.

I checked the FIPL/TPS, readings were too low. At idle was .77 volts, WOT was 3.57 volts, ground circuit is .66 Ohms.

Adjusted to max, I have 1.27 volts at idle position, 4.37 volts at WOT. Took it down the road, didn't feel the shudder at all but seemed to take too long to shift into OD.

Going to get a can of fuel for it, want to back the FIPL/TPS off just a hair and try it again. Hope to find a "sweet spot" where it doesn't shudder but also doesn't wind up too much before hitting OD.

Thanks,

Anthony

my 2000 ford 150 did that. come to find out it was the right front disc. not releasing all the way. it is something to think about. mine sounded like i was running over the rumble stripes on the interstate hwy.did not last long after i got going.