Need A Game Plan.

Hey guys, many of you are aware of the deal for a ford 2n/9n that I have been trying to seal. Well, today we did, so I am going to get it Saturday. Here is my problem: Bad rims, bad good tires, and a no start. He says that the engine was rebuilt in 98 and lately he hasn't been able to get it going. Also says that the carb was rebuilt in 08, so it is probably due for a tune up. What I would like is a list of what we should check in order to get it running. Here is what I have thought of, if you can think of more, PLEASE add to it! Also, last time I posted a picture of the tractor people were unsure of what model it was, so here is another pic of it. Would like to get a positive id on it. Thanks again guys, your the best! Bryce
1 Plugs
2 Timing
3 Points / condenser
4 Carb
Also, how do you properly time one of these tractors? I have heard that it is a real bear!

Bryce - take a stop over at link_disallowed - site dedicated to N series tractors - has several online how to's

No timing required. Distributor will only go on one way due to an offset tang. Remove it and do all your work on the bench. Gap points at .015.

You can adjust static timing about +- 6 degrees though. Plenty of good info out there on the front mount distributor.

Looks like a 2N to me. Check serial number on flat spot on block above starter and rearward of oil filter canister.

Good looking machine BTW.

Looks like a 2N. Check out OldFordTractors.com
Main problem with ignition is the points.
Sometimes the square can coil goes bad, especially if the key is left on.
Take a jumper wire to hot wire it after you change or at least clean and
gap the points. That bypasses the failure prone key switch.
Timing is a piece of cake.
You take the two bolts out of the distributor, take it off and over to the bench,
put in your new points and set the timing right there.
Then you bolt it back on already set. The distributor only goes on one way.
There are no gears to have one tooth off, no timing marks to
use a timing light or anything like that.
The I&T FO-4 manual shows the procedure pretty well.

PS, buy good points! The cheap plastic rubbing blocks you get
from Tisco or TSC, etc where out in no time.

NAPA #CS35
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-6769X

Well, son, it doesn't look too bad. Rear tires have good tread, but I can see where the fluid is leaking. But, hey, you got a factory tool box on it! Good luck, and I know you will keep us posted.

There were two more pictures with the add, and all in all the tractor looked like it was in really good shape. Rims are non problem for me to come up with, but I am truly praying that it doesn't need rear tires! I do have a spare set, but they don't match and are worn. Sheet metal looks okay, except for the grill. Got it for a really good deal too. $200 plus the promise that I will keep the owner posted on my progress, and that when it is all done, he can come and drive it one more time. For only being 15 that sure did tug on my heart strings.

Others have helped you with the ignition system, but your no-start may be fuel related. First take the line off at the carb and allow to run gas for 60 seconds. It should show good flow after 60 seconds. Then re-attach and open the carb drain. It also should flow well for at least 60 seconds. If you have good spark and this all checks out you may have problems inside the carb.

Bryce, some other things to check since it's been setting.
You may well know these, some go for any make/model.

Compression - valves and/or rings can stick from setting.
Plugged intake tubes and exhaust pipes. Mice or mud daubers.
Mouse chewed wires and bees nests.

That N has 3 fuel screens to clean. One in the top of the glass
sediment bowl, one in the elbow at the carb, one inside the tank.
You have to unscrew the sediment bowl assembly for the last one.
Leave it alone if you have good fuel flow.

You need at least a couple gallons of clean fuel in the tank.
The N's have a "reserve" tank opening at the bottom that is
usually plugged with dirt/rust, so only open the fuel valve about
two full turns. Not all the way open.

Starting an engine with no oil pressure is a bad thing.
Prime the oil pump with gear oil. You do that through the big
nut next to the distributor. Be careful not to lose the spring and
plunger behind it. Pump a cup or so in there then roll it over key off.
Yes, that flat spot on the plunger is supposed to be there.

It was originally 6V positive ground, may still be. But you can
spin it with a 12V battery to build oil pressure before starting.
Leave the key off and roll it for short periods so you don't overheat the starter.

Don't jump the 6V battery directly with a 12V battery.
If you need to jump it, jump it to the starter while in neutral.
Let the 6V battery power the ignition.

I'm sure I've left some out, but hopefully that will help.
Keep us posted!

OK go on over the N forum right here on YT. You will find much help and the "tips". Was 50 but now up to about 70 something. Most of the guys over there will try to help you out as best they can. They will not ask but pictures and follow ups are the best way to thank them.

Very easy to work on. Timing is set on the bench not on the tractor. Worst part is getting the front mount dizzy on and off if you have big hands.

The advice you got on the points is dead on. Cheap parts for any tractor will come back and bite. YT sells almost any part you may need for the N. Rims are available new but are of a different design. Not really out of whack on prices. You can find new tires already mounted on new rims on evilbay for under1200 for a pair for the N.

Rick

Now That is the nicest looking tractor ever built! good luck, used to have a 8-n but I sold it. they are easy to work on.

Check the inside of the gas tank. Not with a match, LOL. There is a good possibility of a lot of debris which will plug screens faster than you can clean them. I have had good luck vacuuming them out with a siphon. If you siphon into milk jugs you can decant the good gas back into the tank and throw out just the contaminated gas. Before you start this think it through so that you will not be taking a chance of the gas catching fire.

That is definatly a 2N due to the visible bolt in the bottom of the dogleg that holds the hood on, If I remember correctly that is a fine thread 7/16" bolt, Do not loose them when you take the hood off. the 9N had hidden fasteners onder the hood-radiator that you had to lay on your back under the tractor to find. Then the tubler radious rods were only a 2N item as the 2N was a war time built tractor and they took less steel that was in very short supply to make and were considered as strong. And for timing there is no way to get it off as the distributor will only go on one way. Look on the lrft side of the block between the starter and oil filter for a flat spot at the top edge of the block and you should find lightly stamped in numbers there, that will be the serial number of the tractor and with that you can get the year. That number should start with 9N as all 9 & 2 N tractors were numbered the same.

Got a come-a-long?

Well, I can buy a full set of rims and tires (all four) from a parts supplier guy I know for about $500 bucks. So none of that should be a problem! I am hoping that even if the tires are rims are bad that I can at least get them to hold together long enough to get it through the winter. I would like to get it running and driving when I get it home just to make sure that the engine is as good as he says it is. After that it will just get parked in the tractor shed while I finish up my Ferguson. All in all I think that it is going to be a great tractor!

Like the others have said, it is a 2N. Oval radius rods nail that one. Remember all 8/9/2N engines will bolt up to the transmission. Timing will not be an issue in getting it to run. Dist comes off (two bolts) and can only go back on in time becasue of the offset tang on the dist shaft which mates to an offset slot on the cam shaft. I would use a come along to get it on the trailer and then work on getting it to run at home. Lots of good help on the 8/9/2N board on this site. $200 is a good deal. Have fun.

My game plan would be to run away from that wreck
before my wallet and bank account was badly hurt.

All good advise. There are some "quick" ways of making the tractor self diagnose . You need 3 things, compression , fuel and spark. Roll it over a few times to splash some oil on the cylinders. Check compression. If good then take air filter boot off at carb. Using squirt bottle spray in some fuel while someone rolls it over. If it starts then you have a fuel delivery problem. If not and it don't even fire then do the points. Just sand them and gap them for this test. Make sure you have voltage at the coil. Still don't fire then condenser and wires/plugs if they show age. Don't over think it. That tractor probably ran good...until it didn't at all. Probably something simple. My brother had a JD 520 that ran perfect but less than a year later it wouldn't even start. He was going to buy rebuilt carb, then new oil pressure shutoff sediment bulb and wiring harness etc,etc. Talked him out of all of it on phone ( St. Louis to MI). Told him to spray fuel into carb, didn't change a thing, said then it ain't the carb, just saved ya $400! Told him get a condenser ($10) he did and took right off and run perfect again. Carb, wiring harness and fancy fuel sediment bulb/valve = $550 + and still would not have started. Think simple.

(quoted from post at 10:50:31 10/11/13) Well, I can buy a full set of rims and tires (all four) from a parts supplier guy I know for about $500 bucks. So none of that should be a problem! I am hoping that even if the tires are rims are bad that I can at least get them to hold together long enough to get it through the winter. I would like to get it running and driving when I get it home just to make sure that the engine is as good as he says it is. After that it will just get parked in the tractor shed while I finish up my Ferguson. All in all I think that it is going to be a great tractor!

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Those look to be 6 loop rims on the back, not the original hat rim type.
If you can weld, you can patch them and keep using them.
Take the tires off, weld a fairly heavy sheet metal patch on the
inside over the valve stem hole that is rusted out. Grind the
welds down smooth then drill a new valve stem hole somewhere
else around the rim.
Some guys put a rubber boot over that, or wrap it in duct tape.
If it's good and smooth I just put them back together.
I'm running loaded tires on rims I patch that way right now.
Have been for years. You can do the same with the fronts.
Replace them when you have extra money if you want.