Refrigerator problem Side by side self defrost

old · Oct 9, 2013

Refrigerator is a Frigidaire Custom Imperial 200. It keeps frosting up and then does not cool like it should. Seems the heating elements have burned out. Problem is I can not figure out how to remove the wire hook on the needs so I can replace them. Need to take on with me to compare it so I can get a new one.
Thanks

Janicholson · Oct 9, 2013

I think there are on line parts books for appliances. With the model # you should be in business. Jim

old · Oct 9, 2013

I have a local guy that does a bit of used stuff so maybe able to get them cheap but he is not sure how to unhook them for sure. He said they should just have pull off ends but I have not been able to get them to pull off and being a glass tube sort of thing I do not want to pull to hard and have it break in my hands

Gene Davis (Ga.) · Oct 9, 2013

When ours did that it required the defrost heater and the element. Just hope it is not your computerized circuit board.

504-1 · Oct 9, 2013

The wires unplug from the harness,the heaters come with new wires. BTW you are suppose to change both of them at the same time too. I changed mine two months ago.

Daninsc · Oct 9, 2013

Normally on fridgidares the defrost termination switch goes bad, it is about the size of a quarter and a inch think, clips on evap coil, sometimes it will look swollen, if it does it is bad or you can jump it out and run it and see if that works. You do need to replace it if if is bad, gooduck

Tim in OR · Oct 9, 2013

I've had "GE's" loose a defrost timer. It was easy to get around till I could get a new one.
Tim in OR

Geo-TH,In · Oct 10, 2013

Old, what test did you do to determine the heating element is bad? I recently had a Frig ice up and it was because the tenant had the cold control in the freezer compartment set to the coldest position. Not enough air was getting to the thermostat in the refrig section to ever shut off. When it went in to defrost, it was so cold the water would never drain. I let it sit for 2 days, plugged it in, everything worked, defrost timer was good, drain was clean, defrost cycle melted the ice off evaporator. I found nothing wrong with it.
George

buickanddeere · Oct 10, 2013

Usually trouble shooting first saves time and money. How do you know if it"s the heater, thermostat, connectors or on a circuit board?

old · Oct 10, 2013

This is the old one I just replaced and I have been playing with it trying to make it work so it has been off and on in the past week. The first thing I did was let it sit turned off for 10 or so hours plugged it back in and it worked fine till froze up. Pulled the cover parts off the cooling fins and in the last 2 days it has kept every thing cold but it frosted up real bad. Been trying to unhook the heating tube so I could do an ohm test on them to see if they are bad but so far not been able to disconnect them to do any of the test I know need done

old · Oct 10, 2013

Well dud what do you think I have been trying to do. I asked you to not answer my post due to not getting along so please if you can not help do not answer my posts I NEVER answer your unless you answer first. And no I will not see if you answer this one so way bother to do so

Geo-TH,In · Oct 12, 2013

Old, use a large needle and poke through the insulation to do an ohm check.
Good idea to unplug it first. There is also a temperature switch in line with the heating element, make sure it is good.

Plug back in and rotate the defrost timer until the compressor turns off, then use a voltage tester that chirps when it gets near a power wire. That should tell you if power is getting to the heating element. Could tell you where you have lost power too. I like to use amprobe to look at the compressor current and heating element current.

Coils will ice up, defroster has to melt it.
Good luck. Ever get all your chargers charging?
George

old · Oct 12, 2013

Do not have a defrost setting on the thermostat. Work fine if I pour hot water on the coils every 3rd day

Geo-TH,In · Oct 12, 2013

Old, you need to look for the defrost timer. It could be anywhere, inside ref, outside. There is a timer someplace. They go bad and are cheap to replace.

old · Oct 12, 2013

When I did have the heater tube out where I could see it it looked burned out but then one never knows unless it can be removed form the system and checked. I will flat our say I am not a fridge repair person and just know enough about them to get me in trouble

Geo-TH,In · Oct 13, 2013

Old, unplug, use 2 large needles to poke through the insulation of the wires going to the heater. The needles will come in contact with the copper wire and allow you to get an ohm reading on the heater. I think my heater draws about 6-8 amps, so your heater will be around 20 ohm give or take.

Burnt/hot spots are not a good sign.

My limited experience, I've never had a bad heating element, not to say they can't go bad. I have had many bad defrost timers and bad thermostats.

You have to have either a defrost timer or a defrost circuit board. Older units are more likely you have a bad timer.
George

old · Oct 13, 2013

Ya I have no real clue as to what that timer may look like or where it would be in this thing. So far with the cooling fin area left open it seem to work ok and is just a back up that I would love to have working better but

Geo-TH,In · Oct 14, 2013

I'll email you a pic of a timer.

buickanddeere · Oct 14, 2013

Instead of piercing the insulation in an electrical device operating in a damp environment . Just in-plug the electrical connector and measure from there.
The thermostat is often a troublesome item.
The timer is usually part of the controls on the back or bottom of the fridge on the outside/room side of the cold compartments.

Refrigerator problem Side by side self defrost

old

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Janicholson

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old

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Gene Davis (Ga.)

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504-1

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Daninsc

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Tim in OR

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old

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