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Buzz Saw, What Do I Do?

B

Bryce Frazier

Well-known Member
Hey guys. I have this buzz saw, ya ya I know BE CAREFUL! I don't know what model or brand it is, in fact I don't even know if it is not home made. The guy I got it from ran it with a TO-30, of which as all of you know I am currently restoring, also have the bolt on belt pulley. Anyway, I have the belt (12-16') and a John Deere B, would this tractor run the saw? Also What do I have to do in order to fasten the saw to the ground so that I can tighten the belt with the tractor and then set the brake without the saw sliding along on the ground following me??? Any help or pics of your set up would be appreciated, would also like to id the plow if possible, it is diffidently green frame with other orange stuff. Thanks, Bryce
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I swear, I never saw nothin'!!!

OTOH, if you have access to some sheer metal and a welder, can you build some sort of retracting blade cover, like the item used on a Skilsaw or on many modern table saws?

I don't know enough about a John Deere B...but if it was me, and I had something like a Farmall H or M with a right-hand belt pulley attachment, the holes in the frame rails MIGHT make an attachment point for a bracket to keep the distance between the tractor and the saw constant.

Not talking from experience here...just brainstormin'. And there ain't many clouds left there for makin' much of a storm.
 
A b will run it just fine. They don't take much hp, our dc case hardly grunted running it at just over idle. The stationary ones usually have wood beems on the bottom and they usually have a hole in them to drive a stake into the ground through. If you have some fabricating skills I would remake it to mount to the front of the tractor so you can drive to the wood. That's how ours was.
 
Well, seems as how I am 15 and mom won't let me weld or use a torch, I think making something is out! I do however like the idea of having it attached to wood beams and spikes driven in the ground, how tight does the belt have too be?
 
JD B will run it. Ive sawed with a JD H.Use two steel pins in the ground to hold the saw and back the tractor to tighten the belt.If you dont have a blade they cost plenty now.Next problem is getting an old blade sharpened.You can make a plywood blade guard.We used my cordwood saw hard for 2 days with no problem.Use your computer to do a search on Yankee and Woodmaster saws to see how the blade is guarded.They have a guard that retracts as the table advances.
 
I have 5 or 6 blades. All of them are ready to be used, however all of them are different diameters, and have different teeth??? How long do the stakes need to be? 1-2 foot?
 
Not to tight, but the longer the belt the less tight you will need it to be. Get some belt dressing, it's available at fleet stores and some auto parts stores. Just pull it till there is just a bit of sag left then try it. If it slips tighten it some more.
 
Dad bought an arbor somewhere back in the 30's and made a saw frame of galvanized windmill angle iron. Later we got tired of staking the saw down, so we mounted it on the back of the Farmall B. As I recall, it had a 28" blade that would cut through anything with the B engine just at a fast idle.

You might consider mounting the saw to the front of the JD B; it would have adequate power and you could drive it to any pile of wood to saw it up. You should consider making some type of guard to keep a person from getting too close to the blade. Maybe a guard that would float up when a log was pushed into the blade?
 
can you bolt planks to the legs dont have them stick out so you trip on them but run them towards the tractor at least 8 feet sometimes you can park the front of the tractor on the planks. they also make skids so you can drag it to the wood. a 3/4 hp hit and miss will run it it all depends how much and how fast you want to cut , you can sharpen your own blade the old timers filed them just keep them all the same and if it was sharpened correctly to start with just keep the teeth sharp. I use an angle grinder and just touch them up its a lot faster than a file
 
Trip and stumble into it, slip in mud and slide into it, get pulled into it, hit a knot and get yanked off balance and stick out a hand to catch yourself, get a twig into it and pull your coat sleeve...
Like my brother said showing me how proud he was of fixing up Pop"s old buzz saw, as it threw a cut-off piece about 35";
"Why, it"s never done THAT before!"
 
When I was a kid I helped run one of those for 5 or 6 years before we got a oil furnace, was mounted on the frt of a Farmall M. It tipped up and down to go to the woods, when you dropped it the belt was tight, my ears just started ringing thinking about it.
 
Last week a 3-point, PTO driven buzz rig sold for $1000.00 at an auction. My uncles all worked in the woods and cut wood for the house 90 years ago. All 4 of them had all the hands and arms.

Larry
 
Cut fire wood all my childhood using one of those too. My job was always standing beside the blade catching the cut pieces and tossing them in the wagon. Still have all my digits too.
 
Those buzz saws were everywhere when I was a kid. You seldom heard of anyone getting hurt on one. A hand held electric carpenter saw is far more dangerous. However with that said you should have someone who knows how to safely use a buzz saw show you how to properly use it.

Many families used an old hit and miss engine to run the saw and it worked OK. A JD model H will run it just fine. Those who want you to mount it to the front of a tractor have not looked closely at that old fixed frame saw you have. It would drive a mechanical engineer crazy trying to put that old relic on a tractor.
 
Looks to me like his blade needs sharpening. Should go through those little sticks a lot faster than that.
 
That was a neat video of one in action, but they aren't the same model, that one the deck kind of folds in, as where mine is on a track with rollers, but other than that they are basically the same machine! I assume it is a different model by the same manufacture. What color would Sears and Robeck stuff have been painted? Red and Green like the remaining paint? I also have a feed grinder/blower that was made by them that came from this same guy. It is all green, attached is a picture. How and what does this blower thing do?
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You have a hammer mill made for grinding feed. I have a New Holland one that looks identical to yours in the picture. The fan blows the ground grain to where ever you run the pipe.
 
We use to run all different size wood through ours. Anything from 1 inch to 12 inches in diameter. Once in a while, something a little bigger yet.
 
I used to stake it down using stakes at least a foot long and 1to 1 1/2 inches thick. Works best to slant the stakes so they hold better.
 
I have one mounted on the drawbar of a Farmall B and it runs off belt pulley on rear of tractor. If you have all the gaurds in place they are no more dangerous than a chainsaw.
 
Put at least 3 "T" fence posts in the ground at a 45 degree angle. they should go in at least 2 feet in clay, or 3 feet in softer earth. These should be placed so they will hold against movement toward the tractor, and upward movement from the belt pulling on the pulleys. An additional stake should be placed in front of the frame to prevent the frame from turning toward the belt side. Decide where to place the saw that will allow it to stay put while using it, and will not have the stakes becoming an issue later (or pull them out when done for the season)
Make sure the platform that allows the logs to enter the blade is free to move and counter balanced to make it easy to control. Springs may be weak or missing. It should be easy to position logs so that safe hand and arm motion can be used. A guard from a curved steel strap that prevents the back side and top of the blade from being easily touched is a great idea.
Finding an old farmer to assist with the project might also gain you a great friend and possibly a welder to assist in the setup. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 16:32:25 10/07/13) Hey guys. I have this buzz saw, ya ya I know BE CAREFUL! I don't know what model or brand it is, in fact I don't even know if it is not home made. The guy I got it from ran it with a TO-30, of which as all of you know I am currently restoring, also have the bolt on belt pulley. Anyway, I have the belt (12-16') and a John Deere B, would this tractor run the saw? Also What do I have to do in order to fasten the saw to the ground so that I can tighten the belt with the tractor and then set the brake without the saw sliding along on the ground following me??? Any help or pics of your set up would be appreciated, would also like to id the plow if possible, it is diffidently green frame with other orange stuff. Thanks, Bryce
a131368.jpg
Click to expand...
ell, I don't mean to be mean or anything, but.................if mom won't let you weld, why on earth would she let you run this saw?! :roll:
 
Looks like he didnt have any thing else to saw.I saw small stuff for the cook stove.White ash down to 1 inch.If you look at old photos you will see a lot of small wood stacked in wood sheds.The M was running rough and the blade speed was too high.
 
After looking at that saw I think you should fix it up and sell it.The table is too wide.Looks like home made with some mistakes.A front mount saw on the B would work better.I take my pto saw into the woods and saw up there.That leaves the sawdust in the woods and I handle the 4 foot wood less.
 
That looks like a sliding table rig.Ive used a tilting table saw.A 30 inch saw is limited to a 12 inch cut,anything larger has to be rolled over.I avoid the big stuff ,its too hard to lift.
 
You will need the saw fastened down iron-clad so you can tighten the belt and two-cycl power isnt the best. Lots were mounted to the front of the tractor.
 
The table is fine, it's great for sawing slab wood if you can get it. The sliding table saws like that pictured are probably a little easier and nominally safer to use than the swinging table. Either type, IMO, is safer for about 75% of the people out there than a chain saw or skill saw. Yes, they are intimidating and that's fine. Big scary things tend to keep complacency at bay. I can tell you that as you get older a buzz saw becomes more and more the preferred tool for pole wood. I love my chain saws, but my back prefers the buzz saw!

I believe the vast majority of horror stories you hear about buzz saws come from people who have never used one or even seen one run. The majority of the rest come from those who decided to run the saw while drunk or got fooling around or both.

Remember, the best safety engineering in the world doesn't stand a chance against a mildly determined idiot.
 
If you get it up and operating don't post a picture of it unless you have a guard over the saw shaft around the blade and covering the drive belt. You could get beat up pretty bad on here on safety issues. The blade should spin 10,000 to 12,000 feet per minute. Which equates to 1,200 RPM to 1,500 RPM shaft speed for a 30 inch saw.

Had a co-worker get injured one day because he had on too much safety gear.

Work safely and be careful.
 
(quoted from post at 14:02:00 10/07/13) Well, seems as how I am 15 and mom won't let me weld or use a torch
Click to expand...

...and you think she's going to let you use a buzzsaw???
 
Mine being mounted on drawbar gives me weight for traction when useing the loader in winter. I still use my buzzsaw from time to time but find chainsaw more handy.
 
1000 rpm is plenty for a 30 inch blade.I keep my blade sharp and run it slower.Saves gas and it quieter.Once you see a saw blade wobble you will run slower.
 
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