Question on fencing

When running fence somewhere other than a straight line, like a lazy curve , with a 5 wire barbed wire fence and steel posts, is there a secret to getting and keeping the wire tight ?
 
You cant keep or get fence tight unless it runs in a straight line. If fence is curved, steel posts will just bend over. You will have to divide the fence into straight runs and build stretch points at the ends of each straight run and stretch separately. Otherwise your wasting time and materials. Tom
 
Yeah, it's called running the fence in a straight line. If you MUST have a curve, you'll at least need a board running post to post through the curve. I prefer an all board fence in a curve.
 
Wood posts, well set with crushed rock (not round gravel), will be your best bet- and don't try to stretch it too tight.
 
The posts in the curved section must be braced post-to-post otherwise they will tip into the curve.
 
Why not put diagonal supports to the posts on the curve,to keep them vertical and to oppose the tension of the wire? You could pull the wire tight then, instead of leaving it loose. Phil
 
Years ago I helped a neighbor put about 300' of fence in an arc. He had a bunch of old used water pipe 1" dia. and we cut the pipe and threaded it in 8' pieces then he got a BUNCH of 4 way nipples and put them over the metal posts and pounded them in. Was a 4 wire fence and worked great, but may not be feasible now unless you can find the pipe for free.
 
1) Build GOOD corner/end braces.

2) Lean your line posts out and put the wire on the outside or it will eventually pull your steeples.

3) Don't use barbed wire.
 
The reason for the curve is to follow the lay of the land and to try to get the most pasture space possible. I have found cattle want to rub , trip over, or mess with braces that go inside. Maybe could be anchored to the outside though. Thanks for the input guys .
 
I would preffer to use smooth wire, just because its so much easier to work with. But, I seem to have containment issues unless I use barbed AND electrified 5 wire fencing. I dont know what makes my cattle so difficult ! lol Nieghbor down the way has had no trouble with a single strand of smooth, posts are about 15 feet apart too. Mine would go right under that, BTDT.
 
(reply to post at 07:39:01 10/01/13) [/quot

It will take either guy wires or very substantial posts to resist the side pull. A third method was recommended to me years ago for helping to anchor an "end" post. This was on a piece of utility pole. I lagged a piece of 6 inch PT plank to the side of the post at 90 degrees to the post before planting the post. Then the post was set so that the plank was facing the direction that it would tend to be pulled toward. This lasted a good fifteen years in gravelly soil, and the board was still solid when I pulled it out and it stayed very close to vertical.
 
We do it all the time in the sand. Set a big power pole butt, and pull your wires tight. I have about 4 miles of 4 wire along the river, and only have about 5 box corners in it. Have a bunch of sweeping corners, where I just power poles, cut to 8 feet, and buried in the ground about 3 1/2 feet.
 
Mike, Running a fence, ALWAYS requires a number of element
#1..A set of Double H-post end braces. Set a minimum of 4 ft deep, south of the Mason-Dixion. North....deeper with consideration to freeze/thaw jacking post out of the ground!
#2.. Use real substantial Cedar Post or large 4in or somewhat larger pipe. Wood,. hand tamped in or Pipe can be cemented in, but leave the cement below ground level.
#3.. most line post are put 3ft deep. Spread every 5 steps (15 to 18 ft) apart.
#3a.. Since you are using Steel line post use 6 or 6.5 ft post.
#4.. on a lazy curve depending on the sharpness of the curve, with a post every 5 steps a brace post every 4th or 5th post will be necessary on the inside of the curve (a brace post is a single H setup to keep the integrity of the curve).
#4a..Move the brace post to every 3rd or 4th post.
#5.. There is NO Substitution for Tight wire. On a length of any distance of 1/4 mile or more Use a Tractor to pull the wire it will have more leverage and torque than any fence stretcher on the market, Period! Then do not give up any tension you already have when you tie off.
Slick horse wire is just about worthless! Use 12 or 12.5 gauge American made Barbed-wire. Not that foreign made or that Gaucho Crap!!! I have fence here at my home that has bee standing tight for 40 yrs! enough said!
#3a and 4a are specifically to your application.
If You have Any questions call me 512-577-3837.
Later,
John A.
 
Another question, even on a dead straight run of 5 wire , when stretching the wire each tier makes the one before loosen. What do you do to avoid or minimise that ?
 
Much better off doing a series of 100 foot straight sections, with a slight angle in each one. Double H where you "bend" it.
 

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