STICKING VOLTAGE REGULATOR-1958 FORD 641 WORKMASTER

Anonymous-0 · Sep 29, 2013

FINISHING A CHARITY PROJECT FOR THE LOCAL KNIGHTS OF COLUMBUS COUNCIL, A 1958 FORD 641 WORKMASTER, 134 GAS, 4 SPEED, 6 VOLT POSITIVE GROUND. NEW BATTERY, REBUILT GENERATOR, NEW B-CIRCUIT VOLTAGE REGULATOR(2X) AND NEW WIRING HARNESS. AFTER POLARIZING GENERATOR EVERYTHING WORKS GREAT UNTIL I BUSHOG FOR ABOUT 15 MINUETS (OPERATING TEMPERATURE) THEN THE GENERATOR LIGHT COMES ON AT IDLE UNTIL RPMS REACH 1500-LIGHT GOES OUT UNTIL RPMS REDUCE TO ABOUT 1100-LIGHT COMES ON (BATTERY NOT RECEIVING CHARGE). WITH A VERY LIGHT "TAP" TO THE SIDE OF THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR THE LIGHT WILL GO OUT AND ALL IS WELL UNTIL I MOW FOR ANOTHER 5 MINUETS THEN LIGHT COMES ON AT IDLE AGAIN. BATTERY IS BEING DISCHARGED AS IT DRAWS 12-13 AMPS ON A CHARGER AFTER MOWING. INSTALLED SECOND VOLTAGE REGULATOR WITH IDENTICAL RESULTS-VOLTAGE REGULATOR IS STICKING. READY TO REDUCE THE SPRING TENSION ON ONE OF THE TWO MAGNETIC COILS-WHICH ONE IS THE QUESTION, THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR COIL OR THE CURRENT REGULATOR COIL? ALSO HOW MUCH TO ADJUST/BEND? THANKS FOR ANY HELP, ROB (MASSEY FERGUSON MF-50 GUY).

Janicholson · Sep 29, 2013

CHange brands (and country of origin. The reality is that there are few good regulators made. There are more than one company making solid state system.
Jim
One source

John B. · Sep 29, 2013

Sounds like the reverse current relay is not opening the points so I would say the spring tension is not strong enough to open them.

The reverse current relay is the one with the thick copper wire wound around the pole.

As you run the engine the generator charges the battery and builds it up. Once it's built up and you idle the engine down the generator puts out less. When the light comes on this means the current is flowing in the opposite direction. When the current starts to flow the opposite direction the reverse current relay should open thus creating an open circuit so the current stops and prevents discharge of the battery.

This reversing of the current happens fast, fast enough that your spring tension isn't strong enough to sense the low magnetic field in the pole to pull the points open. So increasing the spring tension should prevent this.

Hope this helps...

jbp · Sep 30, 2013

Buy a 60 dollar US made regulator. I bought two 30 dollar foreign made regulators before buying one 60 dollar American made one. I now have a total of 120 dollars in a working regulator. That is in a 57 Ford 640 tractor. Joe

JMOR · Sep 30, 2013

(quoted from post at 23:08:04 09/29/13) Sounds like the reverse current relay is not opening the points so I would say the spring tension is not strong enough to open them.

The reverse current relay is the one with the thick copper wire wound around the pole.

As you run the engine the generator charges the battery and builds it up. Once it's built up and you idle the engine down the generator puts out less. When the light comes on this means the current is flowing in the opposite direction. When the current starts to flow the opposite direction the reverse current relay should open thus creating an open circuit so the current stops and prevents discharge of the battery.

This reversing of the current happens fast, fast enough that your spring tension isn't strong enough to sense the low magnetic field in the pole to pull the points open. So increasing the spring tension should prevent this.

Hope this helps...

"When the light comes on this means the current is flowing in the opposite direction. "---Sorry, John, not the way it works.
When the light comes ON, that means that the cut out contacts are open & generator ARM is now disconnected from battery.

JMOR · Sep 30, 2013

(quoted from post at 22:25:26 09/29/13) FINISHING A CHARITY PROJECT FOR THE LOCAL KNIGHTS OF COLUMBUS COUNCIL, A 1958 FORD 641 WORKMASTER, 134 GAS, 4 SPEED, 6 VOLT POSITIVE GROUND. NEW BATTERY, REBUILT GENERATOR, NEW B-CIRCUIT VOLTAGE REGULATOR(2X) AND NEW WIRING HARNESS. AFTER POLARIZING GENERATOR EVERYTHING WORKS GREAT UNTIL I BUSHOG FOR ABOUT 15 MINUETS (OPERATING TEMPERATURE) THEN THE GENERATOR LIGHT COMES ON AT IDLE UNTIL RPMS REACH 1500-LIGHT GOES OUT UNTIL RPMS REDUCE TO ABOUT 1100-LIGHT COMES ON (BATTERY NOT RECEIVING CHARGE). WITH A VERY LIGHT "TAP" TO THE SIDE OF THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR THE LIGHT WILL GO OUT AND ALL IS WELL UNTIL I MOW FOR ANOTHER 5 MINUETS THEN LIGHT COMES ON AT IDLE AGAIN. BATTERY IS BEING DISCHARGED AS IT DRAWS 12-13 AMPS ON A CHARGER AFTER MOWING. INSTALLED SECOND VOLTAGE REGULATOR WITH IDENTICAL RESULTS-VOLTAGE REGULATOR IS STICKING. READY TO REDUCE THE SPRING TENSION ON ONE OF THE TWO MAGNETIC COILS-WHICH ONE IS THE QUESTION, THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR COIL OR THE CURRENT REGULATOR COIL? ALSO HOW MUCH TO ADJUST/BEND? THANKS FOR ANY HELP, ROB (MASSEY FERGUSON MF-50 GUY).

he reason the light comes on is that the cut out contacts open (the set I believe that you are calling the 'current reg coil'). Why are they opening? Could be insufficient gen output at lower speeds, caused by generator problem, wiring/connections, or the field control may be reducing field current enough to cause cut out to open, which again could be wiring/connections or maybe bad VR field circuits/contacts.
May very well not be a VR problem. Voltage readings at various rpms may be informative. If you temporarily jumper Field to Armature, this will force generator to output its maximum & observations at this time may be helpful. Don't do this for more than 10-15 minutes, because if gen is working well, it may overcharge battery & heat gen a lot.

STICKING VOLTAGE REGULATOR-1958 FORD 641 WORKMASTER

Anonymous-0

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John B.

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jbp

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JMOR

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JMOR

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