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ford 5000 engine with turbo ? what is the cid

1

1990grandprix

New User
I have been digging on info on what kind of engine is in my 1965 ford 5000. It has a turbo on it and I can"t figure out how to tell if it is a 233 or a 256 engine. From the info I have read it seems in 1965 they were still using the 233 cid is this true?
 
It should be a 233... If it's got threaded in core (frost) plugs in the block it is certainly a 233.

Rod
 
65 should be the first year for the 233, that is what was in my 68 with the steel grill, when they went to the plastic grill for late 68 is when they went to the larger engine.
 
M&W sold turbos for these tractors and many were installed. I know of one 5000 SOS that M&W unit on it. It was ran to around 8000 hrs. Owner said take off at overhaul because wasnt his big tractor anymore.
 
Rod's right - if it has the screw-in frost plugs, it's a 233. They have a big square (hex? can't remember now) recess in the face.
Is the turbo too much for the engine? - no, IF the injection pump isn't turned up (much). Is a 233 more bullet proof than the 256? - no, they're both pretty darned good engines, as long as they have decent maintenance, which includes coolant conditioner to prevent cylinder wall cavitation.
Our local dealer put quite a few M&W turbos on 5000's, after they were out of warranty. Most owners were happy with them. Our neighbor had a '65 right up until he retired in 2000. It had a turbo since the late '60's. I know where it is now - still going strong. Another local owner decided to turn up the pump on his turboed 233. Got it to around 90 h.p., but it only lasted a short time before it melted the pistons.
 
My grandpa has a (1975???) 5000 with a M&W turbo. I dynoed the tractor and at 540 PTO speed it only made about 65HP. Pulled it down to 500PTO RPM and there the more you pulled the dyno down the more the HP shot up and the engine didn't pull down. Even after correcting for the lower RPM it was over 90HP. I didn't hold it at that power for long because the pyrometer shot up in a hurry and I let off of it before it started to melt pistons. Grandpa told me when he used the tractor years ago on a grinder/mixer it had a lot of power but you had to watch the pyro really close to keep from melting it down. I robbed a K&N air filter off one of my pulling tractors and put it on the 5000, it didn't change the power hardly any, but it seemed to help keep the EGT down.
 
Please get that damn K&N filter off the engine. Those things are great about filtering nothing which means the engine is eating dirt. Sooner or later you'll pay for that... and probably sooner if you're working in dirty conditions.

Rod
 
As long as you don't drive too much fuel into it you should be fine. The M&W Rayjay is not a big turbo and not terribly efficient at moving much air... so as long as you contain it to a moderately black smoke under load it'll be fine.
Later heads that could be equipped with the larger Garrett's... now those things could make some power. A buddy has a 7710 with the 268T engine... he went to larger injectors... and figures it's making 130 plus on the PTO. It's never been dyno'd but just by observation of what it could do on a forage harvester I wouldn't argue the number...

Rod
 
I agree with Rod - ditch the K&N.If you don't like the oil bath filter, use a dual element paper filter from a 7000 or 56/66/7600.
A '75 would have a 256 engine, so you're 10 h.p. ahead of a 233 to begin with...but still lack the oil cooled pistons and other advantages of a factory-turboed engine. 90 h.p. is certainly believable, but like you found, EGT's can get too high in a hurry.
 
I didn't leave the K&N on there. It was only on there for a couple dyno hits and it came right back off and the stock system was hooked back up. Just put it on to see what it would do.
 
(quoted from post at 06:30:05 09/16/13) Please get that damn K&N filter off the engine. Those things are great about filtering nothing which means the engine is eating dirt. Sooner or later you'll pay for that... and probably sooner if you're working in dirty conditions.

Rod
Click to expand...
Keeps the mud dubbers out.
 
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