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OT water filtering question

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pat sublett

Well-known Member
I have been watering my garden with a drip system with city water for years. It is no longer practical because they continue to raise the rates. I have a pond, had a pump on it once but gave up because of the filtering problem. Anyone water from a pond and have suggestions on a filter system?
 
Pond water may have enough stringy moss and algae to plug the small hoses and orifices of a drip system. Can you switch to a delivery system that can distribute unfiltered pond water without pluging? Maybe a larger impulse reciprocating sprinkler or larger movable hoses?

Would mulch around the plants reduce the amount of water needed?
 
We have about 10 springs on our hill diverted into a ditch that go into a small sediment pond. That sediment pond has a 3" PVC pipe that drops about 150 feet over about 400 feet into one end of our pond and the pond drains on the other end. Anyway we put a reducer on the outlet end of that 3" pipe and set it up with a valve so we could screw a garden hose onto it and ran it to our .5 acre garden. It worked well and the garden thrived!
 
I wouldn't worry about a filter the plants don't care. I would put a screen over the suction pipe. Hal
 
I also use irrigation water with drip tape for 90% of my gardens. One system uses flowing water from the ditch, the other uses algae loaded pond water. All lines have a screw on filter with the round 150micron screen inside. The algae infested system requires a LOT of cleaning of the screens (daily). The other not so much.

The ideal way is to have a sand filter inline first, with flushing capabilities, but they are too pricey for me. The screw on filters are $11 at the box stores.
And, I can fertilize with them by adding it inside the filter.
 
Go to an irrigation / water works wholesaler. Ask for a disk filter. It is not as good as a sand filter, but it is cheaper.

Get the largets size you can afford - even if you only have 3/4" lines, run a 2" filter (or 3") there will be more surface area to clean the scum and less line loss. Even with this I still need to clean the filter 10-14 days - but it is easy.

Grant
 
I don't think the OP is asking about water "conditioning", just particulate filtering which I think is WELL warranted for drip. I am a professional in golf course and residential irrigation. ANYTHING with low GPM emitters requires filtering. Use the LARGEST filter that is practical for you. One thing we do that is cocky azz is we use an irrigation valve on the purge side of a sand trap and run it on a timer system. We then purge once/day for 1min. You will never clean the thing if you do that. However, you need power and electrical skills for that.

I am sure I could design something that runs on a specialty timer from your pump power too. Single shot delay on break timer tied in with pump so it will run for 30sec every time pump turns on.

The way to get water off a pond is to NOT have your suction set at the bottom EVER. We use a T with riser where we enter the pond with 4" pipe at the bottom, come up 2-3ft, then a long T section of saw cut perf used for water well casing. Do NOT restrict it more than that. When that sucker plugs, your pump will die.
 
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