stop leak ?

has any one used stop leak in a WD45 tractor ? I thinking it is leaking around the o rings on the cylinders in to the oil If so what stop leak did you use?

I wouldn't use stop leak of any brand period. That stuff only prolongs fixing it if you are lucky and is likly to cause problems you didn't have before. Either tear it down and freshen the cylinders while in there or sell it to someone who will and put the money toward something else.

Stop leak = temporary fix now, more $$$ spent on rebuild later. Just my 2 cents.

I have had good luck with the Bars leak copper in things with small slow leaks. But it is still at best a $10 gamble

Everyone has their favorite stop leak. For blocks I have used a product called Irontite. It's been a long time since I used it, I'll bet it is still around. For radiators a tube of Alumseal works good for me. I carry a tube of it for my old Allis Chalmers Model M. Stan

Fifty year old tractor, I can not see not trying it. Several good ones out there. Bar,s leak probably would be my choice. Fill it with clean water run it up to operating temp then for a few minutes longer. Remove the radiator cap and let it sit for a day or so. Worse case is won,t fix it and you will have to pull the sleves.

i have'nt tried it but the local radiator shop swears by "DIKE"...

When I worked for an Allis Chalmers dealer in mid 60's we put a tube of Alumaseal in all gasoline tractors when replacing sleeves. Not my idea! Shop foreman had is own way and it was the ONLY way

We ran a 95 JD combine for 10 yrs with a pound of pepper in the water-antifreeze. One year went to start it and the crankcase was full of water. drained it and and refilled everything put the pepper in a little at a time. We regularly bore blocks out and install big sleeves. We cement the bottom of the sleeves. Available at your auto parts store.

Hi I get what your saying about stop leak, anybody that thinks it is a permanent fix is wrong. most of these old tractors aren"t worth the cost of a rebuild so $5 of leak fix, till it won"t run any more is cheap. Then chuck it away. Go get another one. an old junker with bad a motors a hard sell guys are getting wise to the fixing costs.

I know A guy brought an 1175 Case used, drove it here put it in my shop and he was gonna service it while I worked on other stuff on it.. He dropped the oil and the first gallon was green. Oh thats not good was kinda the reply he gave. I dropped the oil pan, you could see the bottoms of the sleeves going bad.

Well he had no budget for this $4000 re build and needed to bale. So I said your gonna have to start saving for the rebuild, but we will put the coolant in before ya drive home and dump as can of goop in and see what happens, ya might get this year out of it if ya real lucky!.

Well he just made the last payment on that tractor and It never leaked another drop in 5 years!.
I have told him more than once that, one day it will drop the bottom of a sleeve and make a mess of it.
His answer was well that $5 can saved me enough money, when it does I"ll tow it round and give you the rebuild work.

I think he appreciated that I tried the stop leak instead of saying sucks to be you here"s the $4000 rebuild bill, That all the other local guys would of done.
I wish I could remember what that goop was cause it sure worked good on that. I still can't believe how long it's lasted.
Regards Robert