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WD-9 Crank/Fan Pulley Removal

D

Dave Pehr

New User
I have used a big 3-jaw puller under 'reasonable' pressure and heat to try and remove this pulley but no luck. I fear breaking the pulley front belt flange with too much more pressure. What do you suggest to get this pulley off?
This was also posted in the "restoration and repait tips" forum in hopes for additional input.
Thanks, Dave
 
You probably need a puller like what BigDog made for his Cub pulley and Keith made for his Super C
pulley using a bottle jack or hydraulic ram. You should also use a split bearing separator so you don't break the damper pulley. Your local metal shop can make one you would need to measure the hub for clearance. Our local metal shop can punch holes for the all thread clearance. Hal
a126226.jpg

a126227.jpg
 
Thanks for the reply, much appreciated!
The back flange of my WD9 pulley is very thin and flexible with minimal clearance between the back flange and gearcase. As the pictures show, getting a thick puller plate between the gearcase/front engine support and back pulley flange appears questionable. I am thinking of creating a multilayered steel pulling plate that will fit securely down into the tapered pulley groove where the pulling force will be nearest the shaft and were there appears to be the greatest material strength.
What did they use for the WD9 back in the day?
a126244.jpg

a126246.jpg
 
Here are some puller plates I have used in the pulley grove to pull on. I usually do not use the taped holes on the plates as they tend to bent the plates out. I put the plate on and then come around it at the cross bolts with a LARGE two jaw Posi-lock puller.
a126254.jpg

a126255.jpg
 
That doesn't leave you with very much room. If what you suggested doesn't work could you weld two large steel nuts 180° apart in that recessed area. Then pull from the nuts using all thread.
PS: Let us know how you removed it.
Hal
 
The pulleys are normally a slip fit like the H & M. Spray some good penetrating oil around the shaft. Use a pry bar on each side close to the center of the pulley. Should just slide off. Might help to protect the end of the crank shaft & have someone tap on it to get it started.
 
Welding a couple nuts is actually a really good idea. I think I"ll likely do that before creating a puller plate. As for being a slip fit, it appears to have been hammered on by evidence of beating marks. I have already used alot of PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench and a torch rosebud with a gear puller attached under considerable tension. I have indeed used opposing prybars behind the rear pulley flange, but it just flexes the flange and will break the flange if pried too much more.

Has anybody else removed this from their WD9?
 
Sorry for the placement of the reply... it should have been here...
Welding a couple nuts is actually a really good idea. I think I"ll likely do that before creating a puller plate. As for being a slip fit, it appears to have been hammered on by evidence of beating marks. I have already used alot of PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench and a torch rosebud with a gear puller attached under considerable tension. I have indeed used opposing prybars behind the rear pulley flange, but it just flexes the flange and will break the flange if pried too much more.

Has anybody else removed this from their WD9?
 
Make sure you cover those threads so they're not damaged when welding. Slide an old pipe coupling
or something similar to protect the threads. Hal
 
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