I have a John Deere 3020 diesel tractor. Checked the oil level today and it was over full, drained some oil from it and the oil seemed very thin. I am suspecting it has fuel in the oil as I have not added any oil to it recently. When running the tractor does not smoke but the engine will sometimes rev way up on its own, if you tap the foot throttle it will go back down and run at the rpm's it was at and then will do this again a few minutes later. What causes this? It did have the fuel pump replaced about 2 years ago. It is one of the later 3020's made in '69 or '70.
- Thread starter DKJD3020
- Start date
Secret Squirrel
Member
I would say it is time for an injection pump.
Dieseltech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Akron, Indiana
Time for injection pump repair, governor weight cage ring is failing causing erratic speed control and drive shaft seal leakage. Just repaired a Moline pump for the same trouble.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
I would recommend getting the governor and the shaft seal replaced.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
I would recommend getting the governor and the shaft seal replaced.
mudcreek183
Member
Pull it take to diesel shop to get it fixed it is not a do it yourself project.
larryanderson
Well-known Member
Common problem and easily fixed at pump shop.Usually
a seal.For around $600/700 for a complete rebuilt
pump or around $50 parts plus labor if only
seals.Best to not run it much as 3020s are one of
the harder tractors to find repacement parts for as
the 270 was only used in that model.
a seal.For around $600/700 for a complete rebuilt
pump or around $50 parts plus labor if only
seals.Best to not run it much as 3020s are one of
the harder tractors to find repacement parts for as
the 270 was only used in that model.
If the tractor has a "C" pump - it cannot be "rebuilt" unless you find somebody with used or new-old-stock parts. If it's a "D" pump - then it needs $50 in parts and two hours labor if you find a person who knows how to work on it (2 hours bench time that is).
Note the "C" pump has no plastic governor ring to fall apart. If it IS a "C" and the throttle is acting wacky -it dues to dried out or worn rack and pinion gears in that long tube that sticks out the top of the pump. Late model (after serial # 125000) used C pumps on engines with serial #s 125000 to 132,165.
Note the "C" pump has no plastic governor ring to fall apart. If it IS a "C" and the throttle is acting wacky -it dues to dried out or worn rack and pinion gears in that long tube that sticks out the top of the pump. Late model (after serial # 125000) used C pumps on engines with serial #s 125000 to 132,165.
Thanks for the replies, our neighbor knows the diesel instructor at the local vo-tech/ag school and he said he has worked on them before and will do it for us and let some of his students learn the process.
I think it is a "D" pump, I didn't see any "C"'s in either number that is on the pump.
I think it is a "D" pump, I didn't see any "C"'s in either number that is on the pump.
Dieseltech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Akron, Indiana
Complete Stanadyne tool set is helpful, but not needed. Bristoll bit for the cam screw, unless it has been changed to the late torx style. Housing pilot tube may need replaced depending on wear. New tubes are epoxied in place after old one is pressed out. Roller centrality should be checked also while head assembly is apart. If pump has high hours delivery valve spring should be replaced also. When it breaks I have seen the rotor locked and drive shaft break, very expensive damage.
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