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Questions on IH 435 Baler.. Comments??

N

NewEnglandFarmer

Member
Our JD 336 crapped out, the local JD dealer is saying $5,000 to repair. We do about 1,000 bales a year and there is no justification in spending that money knowing the maximum return

Someone local has an IH 435 baler for sale for just over $2,000, says one of the knotters got out of time but it's all squared away now. The only reason he's getting rid of it is because he bought a new(er) baler

Can anyone steer me into a yay or nay regarding these?? I had an old IH 46 which was a nightmare. However, I'm told that the 435 were made in the 1970s and that IH balers got better each generation. I'm fairly confident on the availability of parts. I know most IH 45, 46, and 47s are retired now, I understand there are IH 430, 435, 440 that are still running.

As always I appreciate any help.
 
The 430 was a good reliable baler with a much better knotter than the 47. The only weakness was the drive to the packer would collapse the bearing in tough going, give it some time to feed and it never gave any bother. I am not familiar with the 435 but I am sure it is similar?
Sam
 
I have a IH 440 baler, it does a great job for me. Keep the knotters clean and lightly greased and they work just fine. I"ve baled about 1300 bales this year and have only missed tieing 4 or 5 bales and that was my fault. Switching twine balls my knots weren"t very good.
BE sure to get a manual for it and set everything like the manual says and you will be allright
 
These parts when it comes to a older square baler if it is not a New Holland it pretty well goes for what it will scrap. I would think 2 grand is a premium price. I would want to see it bale before I put that kind of money in it.
 
On any ih baler once the knitters are adjusted leave them alone except for lubrication. Then don't ever run the baler slow. As soon as you engage the pro rev the tractor to full pro speed. When you disengage it throw the pto out at half throttle and let it coast to a stop. Don't let the tractor engine "brake" the baler. That will help keep the twine from slacking where it feeds into the knotters
 
Thought I read when they went from the 430 to the 435 they changed the knotter design so that it was similar to what the main players were using. Apparently a very good change and makes the "5" series more valuable. Two thousand? Maybe if in great shape.
 
The IH 435 baler was a fairly good baler, much better knotter than the IH 430/440. The $2000 price is at the HIGH end of the value on them. The NH and JD balers will sell 25% higher than the IH ones.

I would go to your local CIH dealer and have him look up some of the common knotter parts and see if they are available and the cost. The reason being that CIH has discontinued some of the knotter parts. There are quite a few of the knotter parts for a IH 47 that are no long available. The parts availability would really worry me on the IH baler. With Fiat owning them and NH it looks like the non NH hay stuff is taking back seat to the company.

I really wonder what is wrong with your JD 336 for the repair bill to be $5000. I have seen them that worn out but usually they are not that bad to have repaired.
 
Hi my brother has both an IH 430 and 435 with the all twine knotters both are very good balers. The 435 has a wider pickup and a bit more capacity than the 430. He bought the 435 for $500 from farmer that retired. Make sure it has the all twine knotter. This is the much improved knotter that works like a NH knotter.

JimB
 
I would guess that most of 5 grand to fix the 336 is labor and/or punitive pricing because the dealer does not want to fool with it. I would not buy any square baler that had knotter or ""timing"" problems and was supposedly fixed, but is now for sale, must be a money pit if the people selling decided they needed a different baler. I would think there were many low use square balers in barns in the former high intensity Dairy areas of New England and New York state that can be bought reasonable. $2,000.00 for an admittedly problematic 40 year old baler is a bad joke in my opinion.
 
My friend that i bale with shattered the thing. When I say he broke the knotters, I"m talking broke the castings right off. Both needles snapped right in half, just a mess. JD said the knitters alone are $1300 per side. Who knows
 
Can you work on the 336 yourself? Or perhaps an independant mechanic? Here in Pa there are several amish companys that rebuild New Holland balers and give a warranty on their work. It costs about $2500. $5000 seems really high to repair a baler.
Josh
 
You haven't had a John Deere dealership work on a square baler have you?

I had one that was working when I brought it in and asked them to adjust the timing because it would miss 1 in 20 bales. Got a $1700 bill and the baler never tied another bale again.


If they can show you its working $2000 is a little on the high side for a 435 IH baler - but I'm sure their bill for the work on the knotter was probably at least half that amount. I'd want them to show me it was working before I paid that amount though. But if its one of those balers that only seen a few thousand or less bales a year it could easily be worth it.

In my area (NE Kansas) any decent baler in working condition seems to start at $1500 and go up from there. You might see a an old IH 45 or 46 (maybe an old JD 14T) go for $500-$700 that "worked the last time they used it" but working New Holland 68s, 69s and newer along with John Deere 214s, 224s and newer start at the $1500 mark and higher.
 
I think(?) all the 445s and 435s have the all twine knotters. Most(?) of the 430s and 440s have the all twine knotters. I've seen several 47s and 37s advertised that they had the knotters replaced with the all twine knotters.


I honestly wouldn't know the difference just looking at them.
 
Fix the 336. There is a Mennonite (Old Order) in the area here that specializes in rebuilding Deere 3XX balers. 585-526-6705.
 
Sorry, there is little to no difference in the knotter from the 430 to the 435.

The "all twine" knotter is just a slightly improved/modified Mccormick knotter, which IMHO isn't saying much.

We had nothing but problems with a 430, then a 435. The 430 got so bad it would miss every second or third bale no matter what we tried. The 435 was a leftover bought brand new after CaseIH went to the inline balers. Worked ok for a few years, but after about 25,000 bales it started acting the same as the 430. Always the same side, the left as I recall.

Forget baling anything but dead dry hay with either baler. If it was even a little tough, both would just blow loose bale after loose bale into the wagon.

Both balers were greased religiously, kept inside, kept clean.

Both balers were worked on by the local IH dealer's "best baler guy" multiple times. He'd spend about an hour, starting by flipping the knotter up, taking it all apart, tapping on a thing here and there with a crescent wrench, then putting it all back together exactly as it was before. The baler might work for a load or two, but then it would start blowing loose bales into the wagon again.

Finally bought a New Holland 316 at an auction. Dad hates it because it shakes and clatters and makes noise, but its a whole lot more reliable than those IH balers ever were.

You couldn't give me a 430/435/440/445 baler if it had a chamber full of baled-up $100 bills.
 
My understanding is the older ones are the "McCormick" (45, 46 and 47 balers) design knotters and the all twine knotters are the "Deering" design. The "Deering" design is similar to the knotters that New Holland and John Deere were using all along. I've heard people say they are the "same" but I've never seen any knotter parts interchange between the three manufacturers.
 
There's an article on the IH balers in the latest Red Power. I think it was written by Bermuda Ken of CnG.

According to that, only the 420 and 425 IH balers had the Deering style knotter.

The all-twine knotters are definitely based on the McCormick design. They produce that distinctive knot with the extra loop, vs. the simple single knot made by a Deering knotter.

McCormick knots are stronger, but they are more complicated to make, which is why the knotter is less reliable IMHO.
 
Yea you would think there would be some decent balers in the back of old barns up here in New England. The fact is unless you go to a real rural area land is so pricey here that all the old farms/barns are now soulless cul-de-sacs inhabited by trendy yuppies
 
I still run a 430. works good, but if I push it past 10 bales per minute, they get pressed too tight and explode on impact in the wagon. When it starts missing knots, I flip up the offending knotter, take off the spring loaded cam and clean out the acculmulated dust holding the cam from keeping preassure in the bill hook. when its cleaned up, it works like new. If I blow out the area around the knotters every night, I have to clean out the cam less often.
 
I had one of those balers. It looked like nearly new. It would make a couple of bales and then not tie a couple. Had the IH baler man come and look at it he arrived about 4pm and left at dark and the baler then would tie one and break two. Traded for a Jd 336 and could bale all day and not have amissed knot.
Get a John Deere or a New holland. It seems there are more NH balers around and they are priced reasonable. There are no true IH dealers or repairmen around anymore. Don't waste your money on that old IH baler
 
N E Some loved them, some hated them like any thing. Around here all those mentioned IH Balers baled millions of bales and are still working!!!! I would be more inclined to make sure it was working properly regardles of make/modle. I tend to agree if yours is totaled you can buy a baler in most areas cheaper than a major rebuild. Next 1000 bales isn't much any baler sould do that, but why not get a Deere 300 series and have yours for parts?????
 
Neighbour has a 435 baler. It worked fine as far as I know. That said. The price they're asking is probably a grand too high in my opinion.

Personally I'd probably fix the Deere. The reason is this: you fix the Deere... you know what you have and what it cost you. If you buy the IH at the price listed you could just as easily end up dumping 2 grand more into it to make it a workable machine. I'd much sooner have that kind of coin into an otherwise good working Deere over an otherwise orphan IH.
I'm not saying that there's anything intrinsically valuable about the Deere either beyond the fact that it's a decent size baler... but really... if you're going to get a reliable baler that's ready to work you're going to have 4-5 grand into it. This is the sad reality with hay making... it costs a LOT of money.
The 5 grand quoted for repair also sounds high unless that includes a bunch of other work that probably should be done.

Rod
 
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