Hard starting 2440

I have been having problems starting my 2440 even in the summer time. It has two fresh battries. If I give the valve to the hyd. a turn and a half off the engine will turn over fine and start right up.

Right now the frontend loader and the box blade are off the tractor and the problem still remains. This seems to tell me the problem is with the hyd. pump. Or am I missing something else?

If it is the pump what am I looking cost wise to replacee? Thanks for any imput.

Well lets go through what is going on. The hydraulic pump is making the tractor crank hard as it is building pressure . Well it is supposed to build pressure. You have other things causing trouble to make it where the starter will not crank it with this extra load. I think you have issues making the starter not have the torque it should have.

1) You say you have new batteries. How about the cables??? Do you have the better positive cable that is two ends on one cable(#14) or the original that was one cable(#12) to the one battery and then a cable(#13) under the clamp bolt going to the other battery?? The cable under the clamp bolt setup is JUNK!!!! Even the double end is not great. I usually run two separate cables from each battery to the starter. Then run two ground cables to the starter mounting bolts. The original cables(#2) just grounded the batteries to the dash sheet metal. This is not a good ground many times. It is better going right to the starter.
in the picture below you can see JD changed to cables(#14&3) running to the starter. This was better but two separate positive cables and two ground is still best.




As for you opening a valve a few turns and then the tractor starting, I am not sure what you could turn open to dump the pressure off the main pump. Common thing to do on JD tractors is to rock the steering wheel back and forth fast while cranking and that will dump the pressure off.

The best is to install a electric destroking valve kit. It is not cheap # RE40463 List $603.89. This is wired to the crank circuit. So when the switch is in the crank position it engages the destrokeing valve which dumps ALL pressure off the main pump. These kits are common where the tractor is needing to be started in real cold conditions.




In the summer your tractor should start without any issue. I still would make sure the battery cables and connections are all good. If you have the old style cables replace them. You can use the old positive cable for one battery and buy and install a new one for the left battery. Then if you have the branded ground cables install two ground cables that run down to the starter mounting bolts. This WILL make the tractor crank much better. This maybe good enough for your needs. If not then install a destroking kit. Then it will crank easier and start better.

The reason the tractor is hard to start is because while sitting not running the stand-by pressure has bled off so while one is attempting to crank engine hyd pump is trying to pump oil to reach the stand-by pressure. That's why turning down manual destroking screw makes engine spin with less resistance. I agree with JD Seller about having good large cables and attaching ground cable to starter mounting bolt or at least engine block. How long since starter has been checked by a qualified starter repair person? One could also install a high output starter.

Turning steering wheel back and forth while cranking will relieve hyd pressure and let engine start.

(quoted from post at 10:08:14 08/11/13) Turning steering wheel back and forth while cranking will relieve hyd pressure and let engine start.

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You're correct that wiggling steering wheel rapidly back & forth helps relieve the hyd pressure thus helping starter spin engine/hyd pump easier. I was taught that trick back in the early 70's.

JDSeller has the topic well covered.

Wouldn't know my 1640 was the same tractor after running a chassis return cable to a starter mounting bolt.