TO 30 dies? Carburator issue ?

I have tuned up my Conti t0 30, new points, cap rotor, i have not adjusted the timing but didnt touch it other then changing pionts. IT will start perfect and runs with the choke partially on. when I push the choike in it will run for another 10 to 15 seconds then die. if I pull it on it will come back to life but requries the choke on a bit still. I have taken teh crb apart, cleaned all orfices and readjusteed off and then while running and it still does the same thing. IT acts like it is just plain leaning out to the point it wont run, it does pop when I put the choike back on to keep it running. Anybody have any ideas?

Check the quality of the spark. A weak spark can also act this way. If you have the fuel mixture real rich it will fire. It could be the coil.
I would still bet that the carb has some varnish in a port/jet. Just washing them out is not enough anymore. You have to run a wire and or a small drill down all the ports/lets to get the varnish out.

I had the same problem with my 35. All most pulled my hair out trying to find what the problem was. Did all you said and finally took the shut off valve out of the tank and found a small piece of varnish in the intake hole of the valve. Before that,I was ready to trade the tractor off.
After cleaning the shutoff valve, it runs fine now.
HTH
Good luck

After verifying A GOOD spark (FAT AND BLUISH-WHITE, THE COLOR OF LIGHTNING) then suspect the carb.

The secret to a good carb rebuild is a thorugh cleanng i.e a complete disassembly and a minimum of a 24 hr soak in carb cleaner. Blow out all the passages with compressed air and them probe them to make sure every bit of crud is out and then blow it out again with compressed air.

If you"ve done that all ready during your rebuildand you are sure the carb is really really clean, and you are still having problem with an overly lean mixture, look for air leaks around the carb metering section. The usual culprits are a worn throttle shaft, missing throttle shaft seals, a leaky gasket between the manifold and the carb, cracked or rust holes in the manifold or a leaky manifold to cylinder head gasket. Get some starting fluidand with the engie idling, CAREFULLY (don"t spray it on a hot manifold!) spray it around the spots I mentioned above and if you hear the engine speed up, you"ve found your air leak.

First try it with the gas cap off to be sure it's breathing.

Then make sure you've got good flow TO the carb.

Often when playing with the gas line to get the carb off you can dislodge something further up the line that'll cause some blockage.

if in doubt - I usually do a quick little blast of compressed air into the open end of the gas line (blowing bubbles into the tank - open the tank to relieve pressure - and don't go crazy, just a quick burp will do).

Probably not the safest thing in the world, and if it works it's a sure sign you should be cleaning your tank out, but it'll usually unblock and tank side crud and get you going.

Other than that - I'd say clean the carb again, using wire as JD says to clean orifices. Doesn't take more than a little fleck of rust or paint to cause trouble - unless you're realll careful it can be easy to miss a litte something on the first try.

Check the screen in the air breather (in the oil bath) also. Mine was just about plugged and wouldn't hardly run.

I had the same problem with my to-30 when I took it apart. All I did was re build the carb, when I put it back on it wouldn't flow enough gas to run the engine for more than a few seconds. I found the best thing to do was to turn the sediment bowl on, and then remove the little plug screw from the bottom of the carb. Wait until a GOOD amount of gas starts coming out, and then put the plug back in and fire her up! Bryce

Got fresh fuel?
Here's a long shot...but I'm just throwing this out to make sure your bases are covered.
About a year ago, I found a 5 gallon jug of old gas. When I say old, I mean the gas was probably in the jug at least 3 or 4 years. I was running a gasoline-powered fork lift and I ran it out of gas. The engine was warm and I put these 5 gallons of old gas in it. The warm engine started only when I pulled the choke out, which normally the warm engine would start with the choke pushed in. As soon as it was running, I found out it would only run with the choke fully out, but I was fine with that, thinking I was going to get rid of the old gas. Anyway, the forklift ran fine AS LONG AS THE CHOKE WAS PULLED FULLY OUT. I thought I was going to get several hours of "free" fuel. What I didn't realize was that the thing wouldn't start when the engine was cold. Matter-of-fact, I had to unscrew the little square-headed plug out of the intake manifold and shoot ether in it to get it running and then would only run with the choke out. After I had burned all the old gas out, it again ran fine.
Anyway, I'm just making sure that the fuel isn't old in your tank.

I had a MF (Industrial) 20 that did the same thing. It was trash in the gas tank. I finally removed the sediment bowl assembly and the trash literally poured out of the tank. It was so bad, I removed and cleaned out the tank as best as I could and then I made a sump out of galvanized pipe (3/8" I recollect) with an el to connect to the sediment bowl. I capped the sump but would periodically remove the cap to drain the remaining accumulated trash from the tank. It worked like a charm and after a couple of drainings, there was no more trash.

In a word, look backwards...I blew out the gas line, took the carb apart and cleaned the sediment bowl and screen to no avail...the problem was with trash clogging the inlet to the sediment bowl assembly.