F/U to question raised ref.converting Cub to 12 volts

All of the responses I have read don't answer my question ref.the required rewiring. No one got beyond the Delco Remy 12 Volt 110 AMP 11SI Model Alternator, with its built in regulator or a fictitious Ammeter. The rest of my input must have been edited to exclude its ref. a new 12 volt voltage meter replacing the ammeter,the new 12 volt coil,with its built in resistor, the new 12 volt battery.the new key switch,which I mentioned all require rewiring. The responses mostly indicate the Alternator's one wire should connect to the Ammeter. What Ammeter? A new much more sensitive 12 volt voltage meter replaced it. The Alternator's mfg. instructs its one wire can now be directly connected to the starter switch pole on the starter where are also connected the + Battery Cable and second + Ign/ Key Switch's wires. The Coil + wire (per its mfg.) should connect with the + side of the Voltage Meter where it is joined by the 1st. + wire from the Ign/Key Switch. The Alternator's frame is self gounding, the Coil's - wire attaches to the Distributor, the Voltage Meter's - wire forms a common ground with the battery's - cable. The Ign/Key Switch has nothing attached to its - side. I have intentionally left out the wiring of the Light Switch and Fuse to simplify the subject as the above wiring already has one flaw which is causing the battery - ground cable to produce sparking when it is touched to the battery cable - ground pole. All of the new items have been tested separately and found functioning properly. Incorrect wiring os introducing a positive charge into the - grounding wiring? I am in search of one correct answer. Thank You. I remain respectfully yours.

Whats on the other side of the volt meter? Sounds like you have the coil connected straight to the battery to me, via other wires. The hot wire should go to the switch, the other side of the switch goes to the coil.

Disconnect everything. Hook up the battery. Now start hooking up things one at a time until you find the draw. Then you can figure out what's wrong.

Rick

My truck has a voltmeter.Its marked 8 on the low end and 18 on the high end.Pretty much useless.Put an ammeter on the alternator out put lead and see if the drain is there.Diodes can develope reverse leakage.In any case a 110 amp alternator on the Cub is a bit much.

"I am in search of one correct answer."

Arent we all lol You may get one correct answer here and you may get one or more INcorrect answers, KNOWING WHICH IS WHICH NOW THERES THE PROBLEM...... Sorta goes with the territory here Ive found after 15 or so years. But what you get is worth just what you pay here ZERO, ZILCH, NADA......

If I had a one wire alternator and no ammeter, Id wire its big output to the main hot ungrounded battery feed, usually where the big battery cable attaches to a starter switch or solenoid.

Id wire the voltmeter one side to IGN switch so when on it gets a hot voltage feed and the other side to frame ground

Of course, if the alternator is Neg ground, the batterys - goes to frame well duhhhhhh

For Neg ground the coils + input receives voltage from the ign switches IGN output WHEN SWITCHED TO ON while the - wires to distributor

TELL EM IF YOU DONT GET THE ONE CORRECT ANSWER YOU DEMAND YOU WILL LEAVE LOL that may wake em up ya think????????

Best wishes and hope you find that one correct answer were all lookin for...

Ol John T

I will agree with John T.
I will also say that both an amp meter and Volt meter have useful information. A volt meter will usually stay in two places. Battery volts when the ignition is turned on, and charging volts when running. It will not show you charge rate, or discharge rate. I like both, but prefer an amp meter if only one is used. There are no resistors in coils!! It is just wound with the number of turns needed for it to run and 14 volts continuously. (it is a common mistake made because the coils designed to run with an external resistor say ""External Resistor Required"" and those designed to run on 14 volts say ""No External Resistor Required"". Which implys that it has one. It does not. Jim

See if one of these wiring diagrams will help you
Bob Melvilles wiring Diagrams

In the reference posted use #5 if its a one wire no need for the other two at the alt marked 1&2,,,, You will not be using a useless amp meter so leave it out of the circuit so run the alt to the battery side of the starter activation switch,,,, Wire the voltmeter in on the run side of the ignition switch the other side of the voltmeter goes to a ground... Voltage information will be the #1 diagnostic tool you will need in daily operation of your tractor...