Working on a basket case skid steerloader.

I want to say thank you to every body who put there thoughts down for me to read. This skid steer loader had a center beam running betwwen the two arms and the last owner had cut it out because they wanted to put a bigger wisconsin engine it. The beam is 3"x 5" and runs across about 3 feet side to side. I have doughts if the bar has been cut out that it makes it a weak point which means the bar needs to be put back in to this area. What do you think Thanks Brent

You could probably make it so you could bolt it in. Wouldn't be a too a big of a job for a good welder.

Brent,
My opinion,from the looks of it, would be, the panel supporting the down pillars is strong enough to withstand any flexing or torquing of the machine. Hinging in a ,the same size, channel would be no problem,but would be un-necessary in my opinion
Another option is to make a slide up channel with ears to both ends, and bolt it in place to fill the void/gap.Easy enough,but again in my opinion,un-necessary.To put the machine in such a predicament to cause flexing,bending or distortion,would be almost impossible,unless you dropped it off a cliff.Again,just my opinion.

Whoever cut that piece out,was smart enough to leave enough channel to form an L,making it alot stronger,with the panel intact.If you are worried about it, you could make it removable,in case you have to remove the engine at a later date for ease of use.Although they already put the "newer" engine in with that piece removed, it almost negates the theory of needing that channel reinstalled. Must be working so far,so the suggestion of leaving sleeping dogs lie,or if it ain't broke, no need to fix it comes to mind. But since it is yours,you have to do it the way you want.Just giving you my take on it.
Regards,
LOU

Why not cut a piece of channel and just bolt it across on top of the part cut out. Looks like you already have two holes to use? that would add a lot straight to the plate on top of the cut out and should do the trick.

That pic is a bit too close to see what I need, but it looks like that is on the rear, above the engine, between the uprights that the loader attaches to. If so that tube is important and needs to be a tube because that is what helps keep those uprights from twisting. Channels and angles there will keep it parallel, but won't help keep one or the other from moving for and aft when lifting or pushing with one side of the bucket. That is a very important part of the structure and without it you could end up with cracking or breaking in other parts of the main frame. I would cut the rest out and replace it with a new tube the same size and thickness. If you want it removable that's ok, but you need to weld 2 plates to each side and run 2 or 3 bolts through each end. I also would run a bushing through the tube and weld it in to get a good conection to the tube.

I agree 100% with Jon F on this. If that beam was originally spec"d as a 3x5 that"s quite a chunk of steel. Any tube, round or square, will resist twisting and torsion WAY better than any plate or angle.

I would look to replace with the same size. I prefer welding myself, that"s a big piece to bolt in with tabs, lots of fab work. Notch, re-box do what you need to get it back in there, otherwise I think your tower where the loader mounts may twist on you.

Rick

If you need to maintain the clearance, you could trim back the flat plate above and put the new tube on top of the stubs.

Don't want to start an argument but that tubing was there for a reason and having more power is an even better reason it needs to be replaced. The short little ends that were left add no strength at all. There's a lot of twisting force on the lift arms.