Dennis in NC
Member
o/t is it cheaper to run the A C ,than ceiling fans with other fans in house . yes it is cooler with AC but their is always a good breeze here on top of the hill and comfortable. I say AC boss says fans....help
- Thread starter Dennis in NC
- Start date
Janicholson
Well-known Member
A whole house fan can draw 4 to 5 amps. an AC unit will draw 20 or more. I choose a Whole house fan. blowing into a vented attic/truss space. Jim
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I think fans would be cheaper but not cool enough for my family. The humidity in central Ky. was why we went to central air over 20 years ago, now allergies are the reason it stays on most of the year.
Paul from MI
Well-known Member
I spent the afternoon combining wheat on my John Deere D, pulling an Allis-Chalmers 60 combine in 93F heat. I don't care what the AC costs!
fixerupper
Well-known Member
For people like Marilyn who have allergies to dust, pollen and mold air conditioning is a god-send. In dry weather there's dust, in wet weather there's mold so it's an all season affliction. The only reason we put in air conditioning years ago was for her, but now I like it too. Every time the air conditioner sputters I'm the first one to take the initiative to get it fixed. Jim
john in la
Well-known Member
I wish I lived in a area where I had a choice of using the A/C or a fan.
Then again maybe not because I love our winters.
Then again maybe not because I love our winters.
BAnNC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Western North Carolina
Dennis,
If the temps got as hot as they were in the mountains of NC today, fans just might not make it.
Was about 90 at lunchtime, know it got warmer in the afternoon.
If the temps got as hot as they were in the mountains of NC today, fans just might not make it.
Was about 90 at lunchtime, know it got warmer in the afternoon.
I have both whole house fan and AC in my principal residence. That way I have my choice. Love it that way. Whole house louvered fan is mounted in upstairs hallway ceiling. 36" I believe. Maybe bigger. Blows air into attic and out the ends/gables through very large, screened vents. Important to makes vents large enough or you'll overpressure attic resulting in fan blade slap (noise). Use the fan most of the time but when temps go up we shut the fan down and turn on the AC.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Cool (or hot today, 90) that puts you in IOWA does it not. Jim
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
Different folks have a different thermal safe level. Gotta move a little; both go in the direction you don't like to work out a solution. My woman runs about 10 degrees hotter than I so she wants things 10 degrees cooler. I give her 5, she gives me 5. I'm a little cooler than I'd like and she a little hotter. But we make it work.
Thing about AC (refrigerated) over fans and outdoor air is humidity. If low you can compromise a lot easier than if high.
Mark
Thing about AC (refrigerated) over fans and outdoor air is humidity. If low you can compromise a lot easier than if high.
Mark
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
No fan can remove humidity. Lower humidity is better. If you don't get the moisture out of your house, it will smell like a moldy basement.
A fan uses less electricity, that's a no brainer. Check the ceiling fan, may use 100-200 watts.
We leave the AC on 24/7. NEVER OPEN THE WINDOWS AT NIGHT. I think it ruffly takes 1000 BTU's of cooling to remove a pint of moisture. Look at the gallons of water comes out of your air conditioner.
Once we get the humidity out, you can raise the temperature inside the house and use less AC. We keep the house around 76.
George
A fan uses less electricity, that's a no brainer. Check the ceiling fan, may use 100-200 watts.
We leave the AC on 24/7. NEVER OPEN THE WINDOWS AT NIGHT. I think it ruffly takes 1000 BTU's of cooling to remove a pint of moisture. Look at the gallons of water comes out of your air conditioner.
Once we get the humidity out, you can raise the temperature inside the house and use less AC. We keep the house around 76.
George
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
George you are correct. I can't understand these dolts who run the AC all day and open the windows at night.
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
I don't remember discussing the cost of removing moisture in the air in my master course in heating, ac, and ref. from National Tech Schools in LA.. But that was 40 years ago.
The moisture condenses on the evaporator coil as a natural physical process and drains out. Actually on my zone AC units (some refer to them sarcastically as window units) it is a boon as I get the other physical process "heat (removal) of evaporation" efficiency boost by the slinger ring on the condenser fan slinging this condensate onto the coil, greatly improving it's cooling efficiency, and lowering the compressor head pressure thus lowering the line running amps and the monthly light bill.
Sometimes in the summer, on hot dry days when there is no condensate, I will squirt it with the water hose. You can hear the compressor settle down as you do it with the reduced work load it has.
I guess you could get into wet and dry bulb readings. Or it could be that dense, moisture laden air, takes more fan power to move....course by the time the fan sees it the moisture has already condensed on the evap coil.
But what do I know when up against the expert bd!
Mark
The moisture condenses on the evaporator coil as a natural physical process and drains out. Actually on my zone AC units (some refer to them sarcastically as window units) it is a boon as I get the other physical process "heat (removal) of evaporation" efficiency boost by the slinger ring on the condenser fan slinging this condensate onto the coil, greatly improving it's cooling efficiency, and lowering the compressor head pressure thus lowering the line running amps and the monthly light bill.
Sometimes in the summer, on hot dry days when there is no condensate, I will squirt it with the water hose. You can hear the compressor settle down as you do it with the reduced work load it has.
I guess you could get into wet and dry bulb readings. Or it could be that dense, moisture laden air, takes more fan power to move....course by the time the fan sees it the moisture has already condensed on the evap coil.
But what do I know when up against the expert bd!
Mark
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
Something nobody ever mentions is oxygen level and germs in the house. People spend tons of money sealing up their houses for winter bad weather and run their AC all summer without opening the house for some fresh oxygen laden air.....yeah, ok right, opening and closing one outside door at a time solves that .....................
Whatcha breathing? Nice thing about opening the house up when it's cool, like it was the last couple of days down here with the July 14 and 15 showers we received, is that we got all the old air flushed out and a house full of fresh healthy air.
I'll take the fresh air.
Mark
Whatcha breathing? Nice thing about opening the house up when it's cool, like it was the last couple of days down here with the July 14 and 15 showers we received, is that we got all the old air flushed out and a house full of fresh healthy air.
I'll take the fresh air.
Mark
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
Buick and deere
Most HVAC instructors don't have a degree in Physics.
The law of physics are so good, no court has overturned them.
Vaporization of Water = 970 BTU's per pound. To remove one pound of water requires the same energy.
Law of conservation of energy says you can't make energy or destroy it. So it takes 970 BTU's per pound to condense it.
Heat index is based on humidity and temperature. The dryer the air, the more comfortable.
There was a time my AC condensate pump went south. I used a 30 gallon trash collect the condensate. You really get a feel for how much moisture is in the air, not to mention how much it costs to remove it.
George
Most HVAC instructors don't have a degree in Physics.
The law of physics are so good, no court has overturned them.
Vaporization of Water = 970 BTU's per pound. To remove one pound of water requires the same energy.
Law of conservation of energy says you can't make energy or destroy it. So it takes 970 BTU's per pound to condense it.
Heat index is based on humidity and temperature. The dryer the air, the more comfortable.
There was a time my AC condensate pump went south. I used a 30 gallon trash collect the condensate. You really get a feel for how much moisture is in the air, not to mention how much it costs to remove it.
George
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
Totally agree. I have a rental house, built in 1939, that has a whole house fan. It hasn't been used in decades. Not only do you have a mildew problem, you also have a dirt problem. Outside air is dirty.
In my post below, I forgot to include specific heat for water which adds another 150 BTU's per pound, putting the total at 1120 BTU's/pound, over 9340 BTU/gallon. 1 gallon = 8.34 #
Trane has a humidity sensor, so when they first kick on the evaporator fan runs very slowly. This produces colder air and get more moisture out. Your house feels more comfortable at a warmer setting.
George
In my post below, I forgot to include specific heat for water which adds another 150 BTU's per pound, putting the total at 1120 BTU's/pound, over 9340 BTU/gallon. 1 gallon = 8.34 #
Trane has a humidity sensor, so when they first kick on the evaporator fan runs very slowly. This produces colder air and get more moisture out. Your house feels more comfortable at a warmer setting.
George
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy