Grinder bearing removal

My grinder is a JD 400.

The bearing on the auger that goes from under the mill to the tub is shot. The one on the front end (replaced the other end last year. I have the side auger, so the end of the shaft has a gear and three pulleys. The frame cross member is about 2 inches from this setup.

Has anyone found a way to pull that bearing out? I think the only way I see is to cut the cross member with the torch. I'm dreading it but it has the be fixed ASAP.

DO NOT CUT anything. LOOK at the parts diagram on jdparts. It is on page 14. It is not hard to do technically it may be rusted and not easy but it not hard to figure out.

1) Look at the other end (back) of the horizontal auger. There is a cover about 8-10 inches square. The back bearing bolts to this cover. The cover is bolted to the back of the auger/mixer tube. You remove the four outer bolts that hold the cover to the auger tube. This allows the complete plate, auger and bearing to slide out the back of the auger tube.

2) You need to remove the set screws from the pulleys and sprocket on the front of the horizontal auger. Also loosen the bearing lock collar. The auger shaft slides out the rear of the machine. As you slide it you drop the pulleys and sprockets down in the front.

3) After the auger shaft is out of the bearing you can remove the bolts in the bearing flangets and remove/replace the bearing.

Now is it going to be easy??? Heck NO!!! Everything will be rusted. I drilled a 3/4 inch hole in the cross member that lined up with the auger shaft. I then took a piece if 5/8 bar stock and used it as a punch and drove the shaft out of the sprocket and pulleys.

I cleaned everything up and polished it all up so it slide easy so assembly was not too hard. I also used anti-seize on everything.

I have a good JD 400 I am thinkig about giving away. Haven't use it in 9 or 10 years. Sons father in law borrowed it a few years ago and used it a few times, now it is just setting again.

Bought it new in 1967 and it's never been wet that I know of.

Good shape, but just taking up space.

A college buddy of mine still uses them and I think his is about shot. Gonna give him a Christmas present.

Good luck, Gene

JD, I looked at that diagram. There is a roll pin through the collar on the front drive gear. Once you have that out what holds the pulleys on?

What I mean is - can I pull the back plates off, drive out the roll pin, and then slide the auger out (away from the drive gear and pulleys)? Once I have that pin out is there something else holding on the pulleys that I can't see? That's why I assumed that I had to pull that gear forward; there was something under there that had to come out to move the pulleys.

It hasn't been outside so there isn't a lot of rust on it. The original paint is on there. I would love to heat that gear up but there's lots of dry stuff on a grinder!

There is the lock collar on the bearing. Look real close in the bottom of the pulley "V"s I am remembering a set screw in that triple pulley. I thought it was not in the collar like normal. Like I said check the bottom of each "V" grove out.

Also as far as it being rusted or not. Even if it set inside everyday of its life that pulley will be rusted on the shaft. Those surfaces where never painted until after they where put together. That gear will not just slide off easy. It will take some force.

I would take the back all loose first. Then try to get the lock collar loose on the front bearing. Then if you can't find any set screws in the triple pulley try driving the shaft out of the sprocket/pulley/front bearing.

Like I said I remember having to drill a hole to let me use a punch/bar stock to drive the shaft out the back. This has been 15 years ago or more so it is not as clear as yesterday but I remember having "FUN" changing that bearing.

I would also change the back one while you have the whole auger loose. Also look at the flighting. If it is worn just buy some flighting and re-flight it.