What do I need? never owned a tractor.

For the last 14 years I have lived on an
acreage...but fairly small ones. We have some
horses, and really have never needed a tractor.
Not that one would not have been nice...we have
used small hay trailer to move round bales around
the property, and fenced in for the horses all
except a very small yard that we could mow with a
riding mower.

Soon we are moving to a new place in Oklahoma. It
will have 105 acres total. 90 of the acres are
very nice clean pasture. 15 acres are a bit of a
mess. It is apparent that someone has just grazed
it for a few years, never mowed or anything, and
all thats happened is the horses have eaten the
grass, and allowed weeds to take over.

So now, I need a tractor. I have a fairly small
budget. Maybe $3000. What I am going to be using
it for primarily is to brush hog down the weeds.
Maybe run a small sprayer? We will also pull a
harrow because there is a riding arena that we
need to maintain. The biggest thing I would
probable ever need to do is spray the whole
acreage, or perhaps pull a manure spreader or
something like that? Lastly, there might be a
drylot that would need to be scraped from time to
time. I dont see the need for moving big round
bales of Hay. Should be able to pasture the
horses year around and if I need to hay we will
use square bales.

I dont know much about tractors. I know of the
Ford 8N. Seems like those are probably one of the
most plentiful and therefor cost effective
tractors, but I am not sure it is powerful enough.
I am really pretty good mechanically once I know
what the issues are. To me a tractor should be
super easy to work on compared to modern
cars/trucks.

Will it really mater if I get a gas, or a diesel?
Do I need live PTO? (I dont know what that is, but
I have seen the term...lol)

I dont know what I dont know, so any advice or
pointing me in the right direction would be
awesome. Thanks.

The 8N is a good tractor, but I think it may be a bit small for your needs. We have a 9N here (pretty much the same tractor, just older) and it doesn't get used near enough. My go to tractor is a Farmall H.

Most rotary mowers you find will require a 3-point hitch. There are "pull behind" types available on Craigslist or such. But most modern implements are designed for 3-point.

Live PTO simply means the power take-off shaft continues to spin even when you push in the clutch, whereas a non live PTO will stop when the clutch is pushed in. If you get a tractor without live PTO, be sure to install an over ride clutch (ORC) on your PTO shaft before even thinking about hooking up a rotary mower.

Hydraulics is a good thing to have. It adds to the versatility of the tractor. Again, live means it will keep operating when you push in the clutch.

My H has neither live hydraulics nor live PTO and I survive just fine. I had to add a 3-point hitch to it as well as a ORC, but that was easy enough.

Gas or diesel is a long running debate. Oklahoma can get pretty cold when a blue norther blows in. Diesels can be hard to start when it gets cold. I prefer working on a carburetor over trying to figure out a fuel injection system. But I do envy the pure grunt torque and better fuel efficiency of a diesel. Each has its benefits and drawbacks.

Most of Oklahoma is rather flat. But if you're in the Ouachita or Ozark region, or if there are gullies and washes on the property, you may prefer a wide front tractor. Some may argue a narrow front is just as safe in hilly terrain, but speaking from experience, you'll feel safer on a side hill with a wide front.

That's my $.02 on the subject. I'm sure many others will chime in.

If you will ever run a baler (or snow blower) you want live or independent pto.

Live hydraulics is really really nice.

Mowing 90 acres of old pasture is actually a pretty big job.

I'd want a bigger tractor, somewhere in the mid 1950s they started adding the features you want.

The budget is pretty low, I understand, but that is low.

Paul

Other thing you might check on is the closest dealers. You"ll really appreciate only having to drive a short distance or just drive to town for parts, filters, gaskets, advice. Dealer will also appreciate it.

I'm tempted to tell you to absolutely buy a tractor with 3 point hitch.
3 point just makes a tractor so much more versatile with all the impliments you can put on them.
But from the things you describe doing with it a good old Farmall H or M, Allis Chalmers WD, John Deere 2 cylinder like a 50 or one of the Cases from the mid 50s onward (I don't know those Case model numbers so well) would "get er done"
A lot of guys will probably weigh in here and they are gonna tell you you GOTS to have live PTO.
LPTO is nice but not neccessary if you aren't baling hay. Same with power steering - nice but not neccessary.
I know and the like Fords and will suggest you buy one of those.
Yes the 8Ns are fun, nimble, small tractors and they do have 3 point but the hydraulics on them are too antiquated.
I strongly suggest you skip those entirely.
Skip the 6000 too even though they are cheap.
6000 was Ford's red headed step child.
I'm not sure what your horsepower requirements are going to be. 105 acres is a lot for any one tractor - even just mowing it.
Then again, on a $3000 budget...
Look for a 600, 800, 2000, 3000, 4000 Ford.
Gas or diesel does not matter if you aren't going to be running it 500 hours a year.
You say you are a fair mechanic. That will save you a lot of dough. Because any $3000 tractor is going to need some work. If not right away then for sure somewhere down the road.
Whatever you do Do Not get caught up in the restoration craze.
Fix the leaks or whatever else it needs, change fluids, do the required maintenance, make it run good.
Then if you decide it is not enough tractor you can sell it for what you paid for it and upgrade to a bigger, better one.
But don't do what I've seen so many guys do which is to buy a $1500 tractor and dump another $3-$4000 into it on a "restoration".
And when they are done it is worth maybe $2500. Don't get caught up in that.
Whatever brand you buy it's going to need tires.
But keep in mind that tires are Very expensive.
It's easy to spend a Grand on rubber.
And don't get fooled by pretty paint. A rattle can restoration has fooled many a new guy.
In fact older paint will tell you much more about what is leaking, what needs repaired and what has been repaired.
Guys here may disagree with much of what I say but few will disagree that on a $3000 tractor good rubber trumps good paint.
You don't say where in OK you are moving.
Here are a couple of Fords from OK City craigslist you might consider.

<a href="http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/grd/3921737256.html" target="_blank">This 4400 is a very good model. Very powerful and low to the ground.</</a>

<a href="http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/grq/3923733018.html" target="_blank">This 3610 would be a good one but the price is so low it makes me wonder. It would be worth closer to double that here</a>

<a href="http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/grd/3873595326.html" target="_blank">Here is a package deal. More $ but you need some impliments any way. It looks like a 600.</a>

<a href="http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/grd/3873352689.html" target="_blank">Here is a 3000. It doesn't say much about it and the price is higher but the 3000 is a great small tractor. You'd better get LPTO and PS for that price though</a>

<a href="http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/grd/3869028356.html" target="_blank">Nice little 2000 - sister to a 3000. Tin is not correct for a 1965 but who cares?</a>

<a href="http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/grd/3892564664.html" target="_blank">Seller doesn't know what he has. Looks like an 800 to me.</a>

<a href="http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/grd/3890151229.html" target="_blank">Another 800. This one has live pto.</a>

M, I know that there are going to be alot of guys who disagree with my opinion, and I do respect their opinion about LPTO (live power take off), IPTO (independant power take off), live hydraulics, 3 point hitch, horse power, and style of tractor; row crop vs utility. Explanations first:
Standard transmission driven PTO means your power take off shaft, when turned on, only turns when the clutch is engaged, so if you are using a PTO driven implement, when you push in your clutch (or pull back your hand clutch in the case of John Deere and certain models of other brands) the PTO will stop (it will stop being powered, if your implement causes centrifugal force like a rotary cutter aka bush hog, the force will keep the PTO turning a while after you disengage the clutch which can be a safety issue we can address later) and start again when you reengage the clutch. So, for example (as mentioned below) you are baling hay with a tractor like an N Ford, and you hit a particularly large/dense part of the hay windrow with the baler and it starts to drag your power way down, you would need to disengage the clutch, put the transmission in neutral, then reengage your clutch while in neutral and alow the baler to catch up, then resume movement after.
Live PTO is still transmission driven, but the tractor has a component that allows you to accomplish the above without stopping shifting into neutral, then having to start all over again. Ford and Massey accomplished this by using a 2 stage clutch; when you push down on your clutch you will feel a detent about half way down that allows you to stop momentum of the tractor by disengaging the tranny without disengaging the PTO which would be done by depressing the clutch all the way. Other brands utilized a hand clutch (some after market, some factory) which would disengage the tranny without interupting PTO power.
Independent PTO is PTO that is engine driven and operates completely independent of the tranny when engaged, so you can start, stop, alter ground speed without interupting PTO function.
Anything that you mentioned using your tractor for can be accomplished with any of the above, and yes even baling can be done with standard PTO (it was for years) but once you have used live PTO or especially IPTO, you"ll never wanna go back, so when you are giving advice with someone elses money it"s easy to make statements like "if you are ever going to use a baler make sure you have live PTO!"
IF YOU DON"T HAVE LIVE PTO PLEASE HEED THIS ADVICE:
Purchase an over running PTO clutch (($40-$60 at any TSC or similar,) and mount it on your PTO shaft. It"s a device that mounts to your tractor"s shaft by sliding on the splines and is attached via roll pin through the hole in the PTO shaft. It has a PTO shaft extending out the end that you hook your implement to but has an interface between it and the tractor that allows the centrifugal force of your implement to keep spinning without transferring that force to the transmission which you just disengaged so you can turn as you approach the bank you are mowing by, and thus not allowing that force to drive you and your tractor over said bank.
Live hydraulics; again are hydraulics that are driven by a pump that is driven by something other than your transmission, so you don"t have to have the clutch engaged to run the hydraulics.
OK, now my opinion on your needs. As long as you are not holding heavy loads back while heading down big hills, an N Ford would be fine for you. Certainly an 8N with it"s 4 speed trans is slightly preferable to a 9N or 2N with their 3 speed trannies and both the left brake control and the clutch control on the left side where you only (I asume) have one leg. But certainly a 9 or 2N would work also, and often you can find one with an auxillary trans set up to provide more working speeds. You would have to limit your implement size to a smaller schnit spreader and a 5" hog, so 90 acres could take a while, but 90 acres takes a while even with BIG tractors!
The N Fords have 3 point hitch, parts are plentiful and relatively inexpensive and are vey easy to work on.
Other Models in your price range: Farmall Super C; in my mind the handiest small tractor until the Compact Utilities hit the market with all the bells and whistles as well as hydrostatic trans. It will have live hydraulics, standard PTO, you would want to get one with hydraulic Fast Hitch which is a 2 pt hitch that is easily and cheaply converted to 3pt hitch, Farmalls: H, M, Super H, and Super M, John Deeres: M, MT, B, A, G, Allis Chalmers: CA, WD, WD45, Olivers: 66,77,88, might occasionally find a 55 in your price range, Massey-Harris: 30, 33, 333, 44, 444, Minniapolis-Moline has several models (never completely figured their line up out) and Ferguson TE/TO 20, 25, 30 (20s are essentially the same as Ford Ns but with a Continental Overhead valve engine as opposed to the flat head, if you are buying one from a cold climate, it"s a good bet the block will be cracked though!
Having spent significant time working and playing on all of the Ford, JD, and IH (Farmall) models mentioned here, and a smattering of time on most of the others mentioned, and considering your uses and budget, I would seek out a good (mechanically, not necessarilly cosmetically) Ford 8N, make sure the front wheels don"t wobble at high speed, the rear rims are good, the brakes work, and arent having oil leaking on them from bad axle seals, and make sure the 3pt lift works: put some weight on it (just standing on it is enough) see if it lifts without jumping, stays up while the tractor is running, and see if it will stay up for at least a few minutes when tractor is off with weight on it, and make sure your PTO turns, then Git R Done! Good luck and keep us posted, yell if we can help! Pete

a ford N series would make a good second tractor,something a little newer,and a little bigger would likely serve you better maybe a I.H. M,or H, or an oliver 66,or 77,or maybe an Allis Chalmers. The John Deere tractors go kind of high around here, Live P.T.O. ,and hydraulics make for a more usefull tractor.If you can swing something bigger you will be happier. its hard to do a good job with an undrepowered tractor

Geez I forgot Case: VAC, S, SC, D, DC later model SC and DC had foot clutch and Eagle Hitch (Case' version of a 3pt hitch). The latest VAC, the VAC14 had the deck dropped down lower to be more like the seating position on an N Ford, and had Eagle Hitch. great tractors...lil tougher to chase parts for

Geez Ultra, I hope BuickandDeere is keeping himself busy up in Canandaquia at Expo, cuz if he sees this we're gonna have to hear the old "N Fords aint got enough power to pull the scum off a tapioca pudding" again! LOL

Live pto, live hydraulics, three point hitch a scv and good brakes as a minimum. This rules out the N series Fords.
Sounds like you have a day job and also want to run some acres. Excess time in the shop repairing equipment can become a liability.
While you want to stay under $3000.00 . It"s not going to cost yourself anything to walk through a local dealership .and look at something with factory incentives and low interest. If nothing else it will provide some dollars per year to compare old vs new. Sometimes the numbers are not that different spread over 10 years.

The popularity of the 8N isn't really justified. They are under-powered and lack live hydraulics. In the $3K range the hundred series Fords (6xx/7xx/8xx/9xx) are a better choice, but still long in the tooth. An 861, for example, will give you about 45 horsepower (versus 18 for a 9N), five speeds, live PTO and live hydraulics. But in that price range, expect it to need some work; parts are available but not necessarily cheap.

I would try to incease the tractor buying budget a bit, and look for a MF 135/165 or a Ford 3000/4000 or IH 574/584. These tractors will fill many needs for you both now and into your future.They will cost a bit more but, these are much improved tractors and you will soon find that while still nice tractors, 1950's tractors will not do the many jobs with the same ease and operator saftey and comfort offered by anyone of the modles that I have suggested. Bruce

For what its worth, a person can buy a 100 plus horse tractor, cheaper then you can an 8N and do a lot more things. Case in point, I have a 7045 Allis, that dynoed at 150 hp, for sale, and I am having a hard time gettin $3000 for it.

I"m going to agree with Buickanddeere on this one. Right now there are several good package deals on some compact tractors that would be much better for you.

Totally agree, stay away from the N's even the NAA. I have a Jubilee, an NAA. Wish I had the 900's ford. Fords demand more money than many of the other tractors.

Around where I live, the farmall H or M's are real cheap. I have a farmall C, love mine, however it's in the horsepower range of the ford N, no 3 pt, no external hyd. I have a 6 ft belly mower on mine, so mine is mostly a lawn mower.
george

Best bang for the buck for just a plain horse, is best found by looking for what is unpopular. This will include larger as Lazy WP said, and orphans as the AC that he mentioned also is. An example of this is the Case 970. It is too old for a working farm and too big for a hobby farm. I am a Ford guy but you can't get into a sixties Ford for $3000 whereas you can get a bigger SEVENTIES Case for that. These old Cases are very well thought of today even though they lost a lot of their appeal when Case IH switched over to red paint. There are many available now for well below their value.

(quoted from post at 05:50:26 07/11/13)
While you want to stay under $3000.00 . It"s not going to cost yourself anything to walk through a local dealership .and look at something with factory incentives and low interest.

Click to expand...

There you go trying to persuade someone to spend their hard earned $$$$$$ on a new tractor when your WIFE won't let you you buy a new tractor !!!! :wink:

M Compton
Too bad you're not closer to me. I have an elderly neighbor that has an Oliver 1855 that a nice good running tractor for sale and he only wants $4000 for it. I realize that's $1000 over your budget but it would mow that 90 acres better than a small tractor. Here's another tractor a little over your budget on DFW Craigslist.
Ford 3000 Diesel tractor $4000 (Springtown)

Based strictly on the needs M Compton outlined, and noting that he mentions nothing requiring substantial 3 pt or PTO work, I'd say pretty much anything you can find will do. AC WC/WD/CA, Case VA series/S and later utilities, Ollie 550/70/77, Ford 6 and 800 on up (really, just get beyond the 8N thing), IH C, A, H, M, 300 on up, Deere 40, 50, 60 on up, etc.

I think the first thing you ought to do is learn a bit about tractors and realize that "cuteness" and collectors clubs don't mean squat. What matters is mechanical condition, TIRE condition and support. Beyond that it's up to you and your pocketbook.

FWIW- I started out with a Case VAC and an Allis bush hog. I've cut stuff I never should have attempted. Considering I see VACs going for under a grand in my area, and some with a bush hog included for under $1500.00.....I wouldn't turn up my nose.

With what you have planned gas or diesel won't be that big of deal - over all condition will be your biggest concern. With your budget and needs I'd look at a 300-350-460 or a 400-450-560 Farmall depending upon your local dealer support. But I'm partial to IH tractors. The listed models all have live hydraulics and live PTO and usually power steering. They usually came with a 2 point hitch which can make equipment purchases a hassel but could also save you some money. On a good day you can buy any of the ones I listed in good shape for less than $3000 - some times a lot less.

I would stay away from the H, M, and C Farmalls, they are simple but they are lacking in many of the basic options most people would want and they are usually priced to high compared to the "newer" models I listed.

A hundred acres is a chunk of land. If I was in this situation, I'd look for a tractor with a loader, 3 point, & wide front. The 3pt would be useful for mowing, use of a bale mover, and even a 3pt sprayer, post hole digger. A fully hydraulic loader is useful for many things. A tractor with this would have the live PTO and live Hydraulics. You should be able to find a good outfit with all this stuff for $5-6000 I know this is more than your budget, but you've got a hundred acres, that is a farm, not a backyard. I would also consider a smaller tractor for small/odd jobs, maybe a farmall H/M size, any color would work. With horses and a pasture you are going to do some baling too, the larger loader tractor would work there too. That is what I would start with. You will be adding to it , believe me!

I am in a similar situation. Here is what I do.

Bought an old Massey Ferguson 65 gas. Under $3000. It isn't pretty but it starts, runs and works. Has enough HP to do what you need and it is stable--wide front. It will easily run a 6 ft bushhog, pull a 7' disc, haul a load of hay, or even run an old square baler. It is 3 pt. live PTO. No hydraulics which is OK for lots of old equipment.

For your spraying of fields, hire it done. It is faster safer and less complex than you trying to mix sprays and set application rates. With a 60ft. boom they will have it done before you could hook-up and mix it. Same with fertilizer.

For little spray jobs get an electric 25 gallon sprayer at Tractor supply et al to do fence rows and messy areas.

You will need a good flat bed trailer to pull behind your truck. Don't know what I would do without mine.

For the odd jobs around the farm I like gas tractors. Simplier to work on and starts in the cold without being plugged in.

HAVE FUN. You can do a lot of farming without a fancy new tractor and new equipment.

You don't NEED live PTO or live Hydraulics, but they are nice. I used my 8N to mow, brushhog, plow, pull, haul, etc, etc, on the 100 acres I had in Nebraska. About the only thing it wouldn't do was run a baler - and then only because I had some steep hills. I even had a loader on it. It actually has more HP then an IH "H", just not the weight. One of the most vesitile tractors ever made - and understood by few.

I'm really surprised no one (or I apologize if I missed it) a Massey-Ferguson 35 or 135 with the 3-cyl Perkins diesel engine. Great tractors and will probably handle everything you need to do. Lots of them were made and parts are available. For $3000, you're looking at a a used tractor in the 1960-ish range. I got a 1961 MF35 (with a 5 foot bush hog included) for $3500. Granted, it needed a new clutch inside of a year (due to a seal leak in the transmission that allowed the hydraulic fluid to reach the clutch plates - it happens, but not very often). I've put almost 200 hours on it in 3 years and it has been bullet proof. Cranks every time I need it. Some people would tell you to watch out for a feature called "Multi-Power", but it doesn't work on my tractor and I don't miss it. Other than the clutch, I've only changed the oil and hydraulic fluid. It is also pretty economical on fuel. Good Luck!

Edit: Be sure you get the dual stage clutch. This is a feature where you depress the clutch part way to disengage the transmission and all the way down to disengage the PTO. Very handy!

$3000 is not enough money.I'm going to go against the 'grain' and tell you to get something newer and bigger.50 to 80 horsepower from the 60s.Plan on spending 5-6000 dollars.You will also want a frontend loader.The smaller fords and the other tractors listed would probably work for a while,but you wont be happy.The older IHs listed are great tractors,but the old fast hitch on those would make it more difficlt on newer 3 point equipment.Few of my suggestions:Ford 4000,5000;7000;Allischalmers 170,185,190;John deere 2510/20,3010/20,4010/20;Oliver 1650,1750,1850;IH 544,656,706,806;Massey 165,175,180,1085.There are lots of possibilitys out there.Conffusing?Yes.

I am not going to read all the answer to this one. First thing you need is a good friend the help you learn what you can and can not do safely with a tractor. Next an extra big helping of common sense.
That said no one tractor will fit the bill to do it all. 100 acres is a big area for just one tractor let along one single machine. I have 44 acres and around 25 working tractors and yes way to many. Tractors like an 801 Ford would be ok or say a A/C D-17 or and Oliver Super 55 etc. Bit thing it what tractor dealer is in your area that in it self may play a big part as to what to buy since parts can be a problem

Yeah, the tapioca comment was the best one so far.
Hard to fault a man that can produce such zingers - even if he hates your tractor.

Old has it right on about everything. A good friend who knows tractors AND the kind of land you live on is a valuable asset. The local tractor dealer is another thing you need to look at. With only one tractor you will want parts and service close by because you don't have a backup tractor. Most of the replies mentioned low center of gravity utility type tractors. This type of tractor can be easier to get on and off of for stopping to open gates and the such, and it's also more stable on slopes. I don't know what the terrain is in the area you will be in, but Oklahoma is NOT all flat land. I harvested wheat in Oklahoma on slopes that'll make you clench your butt cheeks, especially going of the wrong side of a terrace. Live PTO is a nice to have for spraying if you are using a hand wand and need to stop and go, or if you are using the boom and want to slow down momentarily to really soak some weeds you have a vendetta against. Good luck and let us know what you came up with. Jim

The land that I will be working is the 15 acres 99% of the time. It is about as flat as you can possibly get. There is one hill on the 90 acres, but its not horrible. Land starts higher, comes down and levels out. Nothing like where I live now in Nebraska.

As for baling hay, I will not be doing any of that. I might have someone else do part of it on shares...but I am not at all.

I am moving to an area where I dont know anyone. My wife has the horses and barrel races, so this move is for her. I sell roofs for a living after hail storms. Plenty of hail in OK, so I am good for work. lol. I appreciate all the input, and I will probably post some ad links on here to get some opinions when I am ready to buy something. Will probably be in next week or two.

Don't discount an industrial tractor with a 3 point lift and PTO...I got a nice MF20 Industrial with a loader a few years back for about $4K. It was fine with a bushhog, pulling the no-til drill, etc. and it was less than the comparable size "farm" tractor.

Remember, whatever you buy you will probably have for years to come so if you find the right tractor for slightly more than your budget, don't discount it.

Years ago I bought a Massey TO35 for $1,200 when I literally didn't have two nickels to rub together. I still have it and use it daily even though I have since acquired a couple of nrwer and larger tractors.

In my area [New Jersey] 3000 will get you a Farmall A with no hydraulics. This would be one where someone has rebuild the engine and maybe has a plow, ready to use without much maintenance .Diesel save up more money.Anything under 1500 would be a project needing a new everything. People think their old stuff is gold from watching too many TV shows. I think you need more budget for this.

M spend some time looking at Clist for the area you are moving to. That will give you an idea of just what your 3K will buy. Here that 3K would best be spent on an IH 460/560 for bang for the buck. Most have hyd lift, live PTo and hyd and power steering.

Or as someone else suggested orphans.

Rick[/code]

Seems like many of the guys are trying to "over-tractor" you. I'm normally not a big N Ford fan, but for what you're going to do, I think one would work out fine. And for 3K, you should be able to get one with a loader. And that will be the most handy part of the whole thing- you'll wonder how you ever got along without one.

Of course, if you could find an Oliver Super 55 or 550 within your price range, that would be the way to go. Same size as an 8N, and its what N Fords want to be when they grow up- independent PTO, more horsepower, live hydraulics. And if you could find a diesel, so much the better.

There are all kinds of comments on here, and some are valid. First, though, check on what kind of dealers you have close. When you need parts, miles are money. If there is a Ford or Agco dealer near, look for a 3000 Ford or a 165 or 265 Massey Ferguson. The 165-265 are a bit bigger, but very handy. Try to find one with a loader. If you check CL, look around. And check the listings on this site. There are a few usually listed. Running a ways to get a decent one may be well worth the bucks. Your budget may be a bit short- plan to spend a bit more, but you will not regret the extra money spent now when you need a bit more tractor later. Even a 604 or 644 IH or Farmall will cost you in the 4-5 k range. But get one that is fairly common, and while gas is cheaper, I'd strongly recommend a diesel. But take someone who does know tractors to look at it, and don't just buy one because it has pretty paint. And don't buy one that looks like a tornado just had a near miss. Take a bit of time. There are a lot of good older tractors out there, so use some good sense and find one that will last you for a good many years, then get a manual for it, and use it...

I would try to remember that older tractors are almost fully depreciated. You will likely get back the vast majority of your money when you sell it, no matter what size it is. In light of that, don't buy something too small. The 8N is a fine old tractor, but it has limitations. If you are thinking of using the remainder of that acreage for planting or livestock, you will wish you had something bigger.

Simple answer, 35/135, 65/165 Massey Ferguson. The best tractors ever built.

Old,

I like you tractor to acreage ratio! Something we should all strive for. I am doing my best.

Garry

What covers all the bases for me is my 64 ford 4000. 47 hp live everything and ps is a nice thing to have. Bush hog haul bales it's a good worker. Our second tractor is an 8n with a finish mower. With the 2 we handle 27 acres, rear scoop is a good tool also if you have no loader

Can any of the Ford experts tell me what this is?
Looks bigger than an 8n to me.

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/grd/3908885074.html

Tulsa is actually closer to where I am moving....but I am checking everywhere. thanks.

2N or 8N