I'm Stumped....

Goose

Well-known Member
On my '99 Olds 88, when you come out and hit the starter first thing in the morning after it's sat overnight, the first time you hit the starter it will just "click". Hit the starter again, and it will start right up and be OK for the rest of the day.

A local Chevy dealer installed a NAPA reman starter and it was OK for a week and then started doing it again. The battery was new last fall and checks OK with a load tester. I went through all the battery connections and ground connections I could find. The fact that the starter always clicks would seem to indicate the ignition switch is good.

It all seems to point back to the starter, and the Service Manager at the dealer that installed the starter wasn't too enthused about pursuing it farther. (As usual).

Does anyone have any ideas?
 
My Wards garden tractor and our 1981 Mercury Cougar has this type starter solenoid. Hal
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pretty much sounds like the solinoid is defective, id have a shop replace that, also if the chevy dealer isnt too into fixing your 99 model id find a independant shop with a good reputation to work on it ,it will be cheaper than the dealers shop rates,and you'll probably find somebody there much more willing to provide you with proper service
 
Is there an relay in the circuit for the switch??? I have a couple of trucks that do that. The switch actually controls a relay that sends power to the starter solenoid.
 
Re-check those connections at the battery and look for any swealing at those cable ends.

If you're positive things are good in that department, You've got a bad starter solenoid.

Just 'cause it's new, doesn't make it's good.

Allan
 
Hi,
My wife had a 91 Olds that did the same thing.
She had the extended warranty plus CAA. A couple times she would be in a parking lot and starter would just click, she would call CAA and they would come and try a boost, still no start, haul it to GM Dealer. Dealer replaced ignition switch and some other switches like safety park switch etc. Did it again in a couple weeks, hauled back to dealer, dealer then thought it was a security system problem. Replaced more things.
I got p!ssed and put a mechanics push bottom starter switch directly from battery to starter solenoid and taped it under the hood. Next time it failed it was in the garage, tried the push button start, still no go, I crawled under with VOM and had wife try to start, good power was being applied to starter terminal, starter had good grounded and still no go. Hauled back to GM dealer and then the battle with Service Manager when I told him starter had a dead spot or brushes hanging up.
Eventually he gave in to replace starter and no problems again.
Had a friend with Chev PU, same thing, dealer replaced battery and alternator. A week later would not start in parking lot at -10F and blowing snow. I came with tools and VOM, it was a bad solenoid, I jumped from solenoid to starter and it started.

JimB
 
You may have a voltage issue with the solenoid on the starter. Over the years, I have seen a number of rigs where the starter solenoid just clicked and it was low voltage on the wire going to the solenoid. If you can get at the starter, you can verify this by using a jumper wire and going directly from terminal on the solenoid where the purple wire attaches and go directly to the battery. Be safe and make sure the car is in park and the e-brake is set.
 
Take a look in your owner's manual in the fuse section, see if it has a starter relay. It probably does, swap it with another like the horn or a/c relay if there the same.
 
Yes, check those battery cables. Just because it looks good on the outside does not mean it might not be severly corroded on the inside.
 
I've taken to giving the end terminal a good twisting and bending, to see if it's so corroded inside that it breaks off. If so, its conductivity is so low that you wouldn't have gained anything by hooking it back up intact.
 
Sounds like a bad starter, however, does it have two cables on the positive post on the battery? If so you may have a problem at the spacer between the two cables.
 
I read this with interest, thinking someone with GM in their blood would come up with the answer. I have seen this happen over and over on these starters. Many times the car can be started with a hammer and a helper. While someone is holding the key in the start position, the other person slides underneath with a hammer and taps the starter housing, not hard, just a nice rap. Usually the thing will start right up. If it does, it's the solenoid. The points inside it are dirty or pitted or whatever happens to them. It used to be a common problem. The fix is to replace the starter assembly, as sometimes it is the brushes on a dead spot in the starter.

The low battery idea is possible, but not likely. It never hurts to check all connections as well. Simply loosening and tightening nuts and bolts will do wonders.
 
If you can get under the car you should be able to
use a screwdriver and short across the terminals on the solenoid to see if the engine will crank. My late mother-in law had this problem on a Mercury and it had good lights. Some of my co-workers told me Ford had this problem and you need to remove the ground cable on the battery and remove the battery cable at the starter and clean the cable at the starter until it was shiny. That fixed the problem. Hal
 
Actually on some GM applications, long ago, I can't remember all (454 in some apps, certain chassis/ drivetrain apps), a Ford solenoid and jumper were a factory fix. Ford on some apps,('70's 351/auto F-150 is the only one I know of, probably more) a GM style starter, jumper, and Ford solenoid was Factory fix, long-time Ford parts man showed me. Wouldn't have believed it but he knew his parts and it was actually in his books. (They still used books back then)
 
That is a shorted armature requiring you to use the hammer. I got
tired of doing it to my Ford 2000 and finally got a new one.
Problem solved.

Mark
 
Couple of things. Having gone through half a dozen rent-a-wrecks for mhy 4 kids and being a GM guy for a lot of years I had occasion where the mounting of the starter to the bell housing/adapter can bind the starter. It took me several times of trial and error. I would loosen the bolts and then wobble the starter looking for the center of the slop and lock it there. Other times pulling the starter as far away from the fly wheel as the bolts would let you and locking it down Solved it.

On a day off, get a buddy and a voltmeter. Put one lead on the solenoid stud where the battery high current wire connects.....not the wire, the solenoid stud.

Put the other lead on the case of the starter, not an end cap, the actual case.

Have your buddy hit the starter....first thing and measure the voltage. If not at least 10v, clean up your wiring or get your battery amperage checked or a new one.

You only have about a volt to spare and at 200 amps starting current everything has to be clean and tight.

The clicking means that you have either a binding starter as mentioned or you have resistance in the power path as mentioned.

Mark
 
I've seen several GM's where the pos cable corroded off at the end near the crimped connector and you can't even tell.
 

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