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Pole shed - questions

D

Dukester

Member
I'm starting work on a pole shed for implements; bucket, brush-cutter, disc, and my 8N.

I am making the shed a 3 sided lean-to type structure approx. 16'x30'. Before you ask I live in an area where there is no building code or inspectors and snowfall is a once in a 20 year occurrence. That being said I want to make it strong.

I am using treated round poles. My question is if the the length of the building is 30', then obviously a single top beam will not span the length of the building (not width). If I use say a 2x10 or 2x12, would I abut 2 of them on a single pole and connect with carriage bolts like in this picture (This is just a picture I selected at random-NOT my building) or how? I have also seen plans like this one that uses a plywood scab.

Thoughts?
100_2501.jpg

Plywood scabbed beam
 
If it were me I would do it like the picture. My machine shed is plywood scab and the plywood is falling apart. It was allowed to leak years ago without a good roof. Now it has a good roof but those pieces are dry rotten. I don't trust the roof enough to walk on it. Don't know how much moisture you get, but I don't even trust plywood if the air is real damp.

My new metal building is not scabbed with plywood.

A building can be built a jillion ways and work for you. You will get lots of good opinions that worked well for the builder. Read all of them and put together the best parts from each. It won't last forever, but a few things could make it outlast you.
 
If you put a metal roof on there that sweats those scabs get plenty of moisture. That may have been what did mine in, I don't know. It was before my time.

Mine is scabbed with plywood in the middle and also at the ends of the trusses (by the eaves) and that's where it is the most rotten. We had a wind storm and the plywood broke and the roof just peeled up. I need to get up there and fix it but it doesn't appear there is an easy way.
 
Duke, Abutt the headers on a pole and carrage bolting should be sufficient. You may want to add a 2x below to help carry the header and joint. Plan your structure so you can enclose someday. Open sided sheds in my area "suck" snow into them when the cold winter blizzards hit. Yours might do the same with rain. Its hard work but you'll have a dry place for your eqt. gobble
 
Notch the tops of the posts to allow the (shown) header to rest on a ledge at all three points of support. The splice should be either a 16ga metal plate 4" overlap on each joist, nailed at 2" intervals, or a 1 foot piece of 3/4" CDX glued and nailed. Jim
 
I just finished a building that is 24 x 36 using trusses with 2x4's running across the trusses to which I nail the metal to. (like a cleary, morton, astro or any metal building. SO....

Could you run the wood the 16' way and lay 2x4's across those then metal?? Looking at the pic as ref. you wouldnt need any the long way.. if the length is 30 feet and you split that im assuming in 10' lenths.. run wood 16'way pole to pole then 2x4 across those standing up not laying down then metal on top..just my two..good luck can never have enough space..
 
Put some kinda vabor barrier under the metal. At least in Ohio if you don't it will be like it is raining on the inside from condensation.
 
forgot to add jnicklesons point is Id put them on the beams not bolted. ... ive seen both done..my mind tells me the weight is on the posts instead of on the bolts onthe side of posts... another two cents..
 
I sandwiched my center post with 2x12s One 2x12 in the back and spanning 20' 2x6 on 2' centers. Going to drop and sandwich the main poles with 2x6 again and create a truss for ever OTHER 20' 2x6.

Not sure if that makes sense...but it's what's in my head.

This thing is designed to fit my 11' sheets of tin that I reclaimed from an old factor.


tractorshed.jpg
 
The contractor who built my pole barn (6x6 post) sandwiched the post with (2) 2x12s for the trusses to sit on. Never had a problem with it. It does cause you to have support posts at midspan. You might look into using those laminated I-joist they use on house floor joists. That is what my log house has for rafters.
 
I agree with Janicholson. Notch the top of the poles so the headers rest on the the poles and the poles carry the load instead of just the bolts. The bolts just hold everything together.

If your poles are big enough in diameter, cut the notches so there's 3-1/2"s between the headers. Then put short pieces of 2x4 between the headers that stick up 4" above the headers at intervals that match your rafter or truss spacing so you have something to nail the headers/trusses to. If your pole diameter won't allow 3-1/2" make the notches so the headers are 1-1/2"s apart and put the short 2x4s flat between the headers.
 
If you do just as the picture then put a 5/8 bolt through the pole with a piece of 2x what ever you use for the plates on the back side then bolt it to the plate with 3/8bolts through the scab and plate it will out last the building. We have pole barns like that that have 15-18 foot spans at the eves. They are 40foot wide. The poles are old telephone poles or power company poles. The poles are rotting out and the rest is just as good as the day it was built. Were in central MI.
If you want to put doors on in the future use a 1/4 inch steel plate on the outside about a foot long the width of the plates.
 
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