Is it Possible,??????

Guys, Drug Home the other day a very early 706 D w/ a D-282 IH engine. Tricycle front!
I did drop the pan and washed it out , about 1 inch worth of some kind of Nastiness I have never seen before. Dropped screen too washed it out too, and buttoned it all back up. filled up with fresh oil and filter
***************
(Premiss here is Just to get it to run to see what condition it is in!)
***************
To my best knowledge tractor ran 4 yrs ago, It is not stuck. Went by wrecking yard got a regular 12 V car/truck Batt, hooked it up... I can get it to crank, and crank, and crank but it will not bust off. I do get some black to gray smoke, but not all the time. so I have hit it with a little sniff of either.
Pretty sure the Glow plug system is toast.
believe the Batt isn't turn the engine fast enough to get it to hit and fire off.
====
My Question......Since the 06 series is Steer by Hydraulics, IS it possible to use a tow bar directly bolted to the holes at the top of the Pedestal to Pull Start a 706. The clutch is directly controlled by the man in the Op seat. So let the clutch out, pull the tractor in gear, so hence heat will build up, Prime is restored, and at some point the injectors will all come on line and a 49 yr old tractor should be back from the dead! Once the engine hits, man in the Op seat must clutch to keep it from running over the tow vehicle.Or is there something I am not aware of? With my Hypothesis. Either reply here are call if you wish (512-577-3837)
Thanks Guys
Later,
John A.
I suspicion previous owner lost prime.
I need a good way to restore prime with out having to mechanic a whole bunch
Later,JAS

I'm not sure about this tractor, but I assume it's diesel. I've had that same problem with a JD. On the injector pump, remove the return line, clean it, the little check valve, crank it and have the injector pump rework very soon.

Did you drain the fuel and put new fuel filters on? Does the fuel shutoff work?

sounds so to me - particularly if you can pull in straight line ie; not have to make any turns. Had the same problem with the neighbors MF 65 and pulling it was the only thing that got it primed. Had to go about 70 yards before it fired up. Hope it works for you, always enjoy seeing the old equipment still earning it's keep.

That engine needs every glow plug to glow and the batt and starter to be top notch for it to start. I had a 460D which is the same engine family and I practically had to carry the batt booster around on my back. Be sure and check the return line and fittings at both the pump and the tank. I had a return fitting sludge shut in the tank.

I may be wrong but I think that tractor has a hydraulic T/A and you can't pull start it.

rings may be completely dry...if you can pull glow plugs and dump about a tablespoon of motor oil per cylinder it just might start with battery.

The tractor can not be pull started.if you get smoke,double check battery cables,use two 12 volt battery's,if you can get glow plugs working you will need too hold them down for at least 60 seconds.. also move throttle too 3/4 position may help.have the same tractor and engine,motor needs to crank good,and good glow plugs.don't use glow plugs and either together better off trying to get glow plugs working.

If it has a TA you need hydraulic pressure to lock direct drive therefore you cannot pull start . At any rate, you need those glow plugs working. It is possible to start with ether when not using glow plugs but that is not the what you want to do with a pre-cup engine which you have. Cranking speed, glow plugs and compression is what you need as it sounds like it is injecting fuel.

John Have a lot of experience with the D 282. Everything the other posters have said is pretty much true. You need the glow plugs but here is a trick I have used on ones like yours. Mix a mixture of half gas and diesel in some kind of spray bottle. Remove the intake hose there at the intake. I usually take a separate battery and jumper cables straight to the glow plugs. Then as you turn the engine over spray in the gas /diesel mixture. Sometimes this will help bring up the compression. You may actually have to add some engine oil to the mixture.

You might try squirting a little WD-40 into the air intake while you're cranking it.

A diesel engine will run on WD-40, and I've used that trick many times after changing fuel filters. If it fires on WD-40, just squirt little puffs into the intake to keep it going intil it primes and runs on its own.

about a year ago i drug home an early 706 w/ 282, same deal, been sitting in the barn for a few years, not stuck but doesn't run.
Yes, it is POSSIBLE to start it on ether, but VERY easy to overdo it. get those glow plugs fixed. i replaced all 6 and the switch. put a regular $15 ammeter in place of the special gauge, just so i know the plugs are working. 6 plugs, switch, ammeter= less than $200. on that engine you'll need them every day of the year in any kind of weather. hot summer day= 5-10 seconds. cold winter= a minute or more.

you say you get smoke but not every time. make sure the injection pump is actually pumping. as it turned out with mine, it had an injection pump with a solenoid fuel shut-off that didn't open. just a little coil with a lever mounted inside the IP top cover. bypassed that and good to go.

just in case, change both fuel filters. they're cheap and probably need it.

if your tractor has a no TA, it can be pull started. with TA the only way would be to pressurize the MCV to the proper pressure to lock up the TA clutches, then pull. kinda a big deal, i've never actually tried it, and you need to fix the other stuff anyway, so i'd start there.

if in fact you just got air in the fuel system, it's pretty easy to fix that. each fuel filter has a bleeder on the top. the IP will purge itself via the return line. crack 1 or 2 high pressure lines at the nozzles till you get fuel, then it'll probably go.

good luck!

Brakes are hydralic powered also, don"t ask how I know.