jumper wire for 8n -with front distribeter

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
all the elect wires have been messed up and some cut and left undune. -can you tell me how to get fire to the coil to get fire to the plugs with a jumper wire. thankssn===239042. thanks
 
6 volts or 12 volts can make a difference. If all you want to do is make it run but not run it long just run a wire from the ignition side of the battery as in the side that is not the ground to the coil and try it. That should get you spark if the points and all are set correctly. Being a front mount you should not run it for much more then 5-10 minutes wired that way or you may burn up the coil
 
run a wire from the battery to the side of the coil + or - depending on how the battery is installed then the other side to the nut on the side of the distributor you will now be hot to start. make sure the wire to the battery uses a clip so that it can be quickly removed. this is a temporary setup to check if the engine will run, you will need to check for a wiring diagram for future work.
Walt
 
According to the serial number you posted, your tractor has a front-mount distributor. These were an unusual Ford setup that used a dash-mounted resistor to drop the 6 Volt battery voltage (actually about 7.4 Volts running and charging) to some 4 Volts. Jumpering power "hot wiring" to the top, primary terminal on the coil WITHOUT an OEM (or equivalent) resistor in the primary circuit will RAPIDLY lead to overheating of the coil and breaker points and their untimely demise.

If someone has converted this tractor to 12 Volts in the past (as has often been done, even MORE resistance MAY be required, depending upon what coil was used. Even the so-called "12 Volt" coils need the OEM primary resistor in the circuit. If it is 12 Volt with an original-type coil, even MOLE primary resistance is required.

HERE is how it was originally wired:

<img src = "http://web.archive.org/web/20000816034739im_/http://www.nseries.com/early8nwire.gif">
 

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