Repairing axle at seal area

WESnIL

Member
The tractor rear axle seals are looking so I took off the tire and rim to start the repair process. When getting the end cap off of the axle I noticed the surface of the axle where the seal was riding is worn. How can this be repaired before replacing the seal short of replacing the axle(s)? I only have one side off but suspect the other side will show the same wear and repair needs. My first thought was using JB Weld, letting it harden, and then sanding it down with plumber's mesh sandpaper or something similar.
 
a speedy sleeve will make a new sealing surface, any good brg supply house should have or can get them, for a axle install I cut out a hole in the sleeve install tool that comes with the speedy sleeve
 
You should mention the brand and model of tractor of tractor you have. There might be some model model specific instructions folks might know of.
Generally though I would second what Case Nutty says about a speedy seal.

Also I don't understand why people think JB will fix things like this. If I was dictator of all the world I would ban the stuff.
 
You can pull the axles and take them to a machine shop and have them weld the area back up and turn it down. I have had to do that several times.
 
Speedi sleeve is the standard fix as mentioned below.
The poor man's fix , if you can do it, is to reposistion the seal slightly when you reinstall it. Either deeper in its holder or not quite as far in so that the seal lip rides on an unworn spot on the shaft. depends on how the seal is retained and what the condition of the shaft is. In places wherre you can do it, it works just like new!
 
Speedi-Sleeve.... This is it's intended purpose. Wear liners are standard equipment on most larger pieces of heavy equipment.

Rod
 
Speedy Sleeves are great but if you have to push them past a spline, the spline deforms the speedy sleeve and it won't work. Speedy Sleeve even tells you that.
 
First determine that the bearings are usable. Next, order new axle seals from the source of your choice. Take note of the position of the old seal before you remove it. ( is it flush with the housing or pressed all the way in against the bearing?) Modern seals are often thinner than original equipment, allowing you to move the seal to a different position in the seal bore. If the new seals are identical to the old, to where it cannot be driven in any further, make a couple shim rings out of something easy to cut with tin snips. You only need to move the seal .020" back from the groove to make it work.
 
I did some measuring this afternoon. The tractor is a Farmall 340 Diesel. The riding area for the seal is about .0035 inches less than the shaft. The shaft measures 2.51 to 2.52 inches in diameter. In talking with the Fastenal man he tells me there is a Loctite product that is similar, but superior, to JB Weld. Anybody care to comment on that? Apparently Loctite has a number of products ranging from liquid down to stuff of putty consistency that will not run as much. Anybody care to comment on that or have experience with any of their products for this or similar uses?
 
Loctite has some good stuff that is better for your application. If the shaft is worn, Loctite has several types of bearing mount and other repair materials to put on the shaft before you install the speedi-sleeve. I think you can get them to repair up to .015 wear on shafts.
 
You can, however fill up the splines with bondo, sand smooth with emory paper, then install the sleeve, then chip out the bondo. Where there's a will, there's a way.
 
Speedy sleeves are a cuick fix for as long as it lasts.
I found speedy sleeves wear out fast.
The seal is the same orig size and the thicness increase of the sleeve gives increased drag on the seallip and the sleeve material is not that hard.
I prefer repositiong the seal slightly if possible before reverting to installing a speedy sleeve.
 

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