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Chrysler irrigation pump

M

Michael Price

Member
I bought this pump from my great uncle, it used to belong to my great grandpa. I don't know to much about them. Id like to get it running soon and use it this summer. I pulled the spark plugs about 2 months ago and filled the cylinders with oil. If anyone knows anything about them Id love to hear it. Has a 6cyl engine.
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Michael Save yourself some time. You can have the head off that flat head in thirty minutes. Then you can hone out the cylinders check the valves and have it running soon as you get fire and gas. NAPA should have the head gasket that is a real common engine. If it is stuck more than likely you will have to pull the head to get the valves un stuck. Work slow an put wd40 or something around the stems and tap them down.
 
We had a Wisconsin engine and the pump on yours looks the same. The one we had, had a rubber flap inside the output pipe on the pump. I expect if there's one in yours it's dry rotted out. We replaced ours several times. The pump won't prime if the flap doesn't seal good. You may already know the large glass tube on the rear is used to prime the pump. It uses vacuum from the engine to pull the water up the suction pipe.Once it's primed turn those valves off so it doesn't suck water in to the engine. Make sure the suction line is sealed also. Again it won't prime if it's sucking air from the outside.

Hope your pump was winterized when it was stored away. I know nothing about that engine.

Being in flu cured tobacco area we had all kinds of irrigation units. Help a friend take off an old straight Buick engine that threw a rod. Went back with a 340 duster engine. Man that thing would pump water. Used 11 gallons of gas per hour. Course that's when gas was around 60 cent too.
 
JM is right. Pull the head first. I cracked a piston once by smashing a bunch of dry rust between the piston and cylinder head on an engine that had been sitting for years. Chrysler flathead parts are easy to find. They made flatheads until 1972? Or was it the late sixties? There's a good chance yours is a 251 industrial. If you have to tap down on the valves do it very carefully and tap straight down on the middle of the valve. They bend easy. A slight bend that you can't see will make the valve not seat all the way around. Ask me how I know, well maybe you shouldn't. LOL Jim
 
If it turns a little bit... take the pump apart FIRST. Do not pull the head until it is determined that the pump is clear. There's probably a dozen mouse nests in there, all soaked with mouse pee, rusting the impeller to the volute
 
If I saw the other side I could tell you for sure if that's the same engine as they put I the 82 and 92 Massey combines. If Ralph Bauer sees this post he can tell you as he just bought a really nice super 92. That would make things easier to find if you can provide something that they were put in.

Does it have an odd looking carb on it? I think they were side draft. They have such a good sound to them.
 
You'll probably be OK then. The time I cracked a piston the engine was free and I had cranked it over by hand many times before hitting the starter. When I hit the starter it ingested a big gulp of dry rust from somewhere in the intake manifold. This engine had sat maybe twenty years in a shed here in Iowa where we do a good job of growing rust. The stuff doesn't compress well. Jim
 
Take it from an irrigator... don't run that engine without the pump full of water!!!!

Yes, it's supposed to prime with that silly glass tube. Odds are you will have a vaccum leak somewhere, and it won't prime before you burn out the pump seal. And then you will learn about how to take the pump apart, availability of Hale seals, bearings etc.

Priming with a small sump pump, ajacent waterhose, etc. will save you a lot of headaches.

If you need to run the engine, it would be wise remove the pump from the flywheel to get the engine running.

Good luck.

PS- We have a similar unit... only ours was Army green (now rust) and was surplus from WW2. And we irrigated with it til 2005! So they do work.
 
It doesn't look familiar, but that doesn't mean anything. Go to the combine/harvester forum and put a call out for Ralph with a pic. He will be the man to know for sure. It doesn't look the same from what I remember, but they could have put a different carb for more power or efficiency.
 
i saw in the one picture the priming line, if you are going to use it, always have the priming line connected to the highest point possible, there should be a plug on the pump housing near the top on it probable on the side, at one time i had 8 of these pumps, will work if you get rid of the air leaks, rod
 
Here's a couple more. They are at Pioneer Village. First one is a 413 wedge modified to run vertical, then an 85 hp flathead.
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When i was younger (and i'm not that old remind you) I remember staying the night at my grandpas house and falling asleep listening to a similar pump off in the distance running off an early hemi. It wasn't used for irrigation anymore it was part of his oil lease/farm operation and was being used most of the summer to pump water from the crick up to the pond for the cattle or being used to pump water out of an old oil field tank. But i remember that thing would run LONG 2-3-4 days at a time off nat gas. At night you could look out the window and faintly see the exhaust manifolds glowing red if she was under a good load for quite awhile
 
Measure the length of the head. 23" is a 230, common to most Dodge and Ply and fork lifts among other uses.. 25 will be a 251 or 265, lots used in industrial and chrysler cars.
 
Ryaninks, its funny you mentioned the exhaust manifold glowing red, my great uncle said the exhaust manifold on this one would glow red when they ran it hard.

I would kinda like to convert it over to propane, it would be cheaper to run then gasoline.
 
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