Chev 4X4 lock out any body have picture

old

Well-known Member
Well opened up the lock out today but not sure if what I did is the correct fix. I did look in all my Chilton manuals and can not find a picture to make sure it is put in the correct way. The drive axlew has 2 places for a snap ring and it I have the ring on the outer one it will not lock in but if I have it on the inner it will but I have not tried to unlock the hub since I figure if it is locked in then I can go but if it unlocks and then will not lock back in I can be in trouble. So does any body have a picture of the hub. Do not know the brand but it has a plastic lock device with ramps to push the lock in and out
Thanks
 
Does your hub look like this one ?
a103518.jpg
 
Well if both sides had not been messed with I would agree but both sides had the bearings replace not to long ago so I do not know it the other side is right or not I just know it works and boy is it cold out LOL
 
Several different hubs out there, all work about the same, but may be different internally. Mine are the old Warne, and it's pretty obvious how they go back together, because they only fit one way. Which ones do you have?
 
The hubs I have you can in fact install a number of the parts backwards and of course if you do things do not work as they should. As for brand as I said I have no idea and no names on them to know what brand they are
 
The picture was off the internet, and is a Spicer hub.

I have the same hub on a 1978 K20.

It has been a long time since I have been inside the hub, but I sure don't remember having two snap-ring grooves on the axle.

The only way I can think of that would prove that the groove you are using is wrong would be to turn the dial to unlock. Then see if it actually did unlock.

If it will not unlock you know you are in the wrong groove OR the plastic cam is worn out.
 
I've had several locking hubs apart and I don't remember any of them having more than one groove in the axle for the snap ring.
 
The cam appears to be good since it looks good and tall and not worn down. At this point I am sort of afraid to try to unlock it in fear that it will unlock and then not lock back. I do know you can install the lock out ring wrong so it can not be locked or unlocked also but not sure how to be sure where it should sit so at least at this time if I need the truck in 4X4 it is there and will wait for a warmer day to try to unlock them
 
This one does have 2 so that is why I has me not sure which way is correct and since it locked in by having it in the inner one I will leave it that way since the truck get driven only when needed to get out or move a bale of hay a few miles
 
I have a good image of the hub I can email if that will help. Not sure how to post an image from my desktop.
 
Those are most likely a warn lockout. Snap ring needs to go on the inner groove of your stub shaft. That keeps your stub shaft pulled all the way out so that your lockout will function. Basically having it on your groove farthest away allows your stub shaft to slide back into your hub to far and not grab the splines on your lockout. I like to add a little rtv around the inner lip or my lockouts to keep out water. Also make sure you dont get an essesive amount of grease in the hub and lockout or it makes it hard to lock and unlock your lockouts especially in wonter time. Hope this helps. Im no mechanic but turned a few wrenches on old 4x4s
 
When I used to have that kind of lockout I found the best way was to get them clean and then immerse them in light synthetic gear oil, then pull them out of the oil and stick them in the hub. If the o-rings are bad wrap it with electrical tape, it's not a parade truck, right!
 

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