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Tritan V8 5.4 engine.

M

MSS3020

Well-known Member
So whats the scoop about replacing the plugs on these Tritan V8 5.4. I've been doing some reading about plugs breakin off, a real pain to get out. So if I spray some penetrating oil down each plug hole and drive it alittle will this help in the removal problem.??
 
There is a video on youtube showing the procedure. K-D tools makes a special tool to help with the job .
 
i would be extremely concerned about replacing those plugs yourselves. older model years have more concerns than the newer model years. stripping out, correct tools and precise torquing to prevent blow out are the primary concerns. be advised to check before removal.
 
(quoted from post at 13:08:57 02/22/13) There is a video on youtube showing the procedure. K-D tools makes a special tool to help with the job .
Click to expand...
id Ford ever do anything to fix that problem in later 5.4 engines?
You will never get the penetrate down as far as the problem area.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yKIDxSnsTk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoSh9O3XOho

But I still wonder what was the head design change in 2007-2009 ? that was supposed to fix this breakage problem.

This is different than the plug blowing out of the head problem.
 
I have a 2004 and had no problems with my plugs. I believe the couple years prior had the carbon build-up problem. I have heard that working but what I would do (What my buddy did) is spray it everyday for like a week, after that loosen them a little, spray them again, tighten them up and repeat that for a few days. When you finally try to take them out take it easy and slow, loosening and then tightening it to help break up the carbon, hopefully you won't break any off. The repair kit at Napa was like $70, x8 can get crazy so take your time. This is what my buddy did and only broke one, there may be a better method, im not sure. good luck, ~Anthony
 
" precise torquing "
There lies the problem doing it right on your own truck or some Gobber over tightening them and the thing blows shortly after.
 
Loosen plug 1/4 of a turn, spray carb. Cleaner in wait one hour and remove is what the TSB said. I broke the first one and then waited two hours on the rest and they came out. When replacing spread a thin layer of nickel based neverseez on the plug BELOW the threads only. HTH
 
By the time you get the coils off you might as well try removing the plugs. Mine all came out without damaging anything @ 90,000 miles. It's not a five minute job though. I had one that was loose but hadn't blown out yet.
 
Should have added, penetrating oil will do no good, you need carb. cleaner to soften the carbon build up on the plug below the threads. If you look at a new plug you will see what the problem is. Good Luck.
 
Keep 'em tight. Had the hardest to get to plug blow out on my '00 Expedition. Cost me over $400 to have dealer helicoil it and replace the thingy (don't know what its correct name is) that attaches to it.
 
Which year? Earlier its stripped threads in head, mid its broken 2 piece plug, newest are very little problems.

I've got 160,000 miles on my 5.4 and it is not going to have the plugs touched until its miss-firing. The cost of the repair for stripped threads isn't worth risking it.
 
(quoted from post at 14:34:42 02/22/13) Which year? Earlier its stripped threads in head, mid its broken 2 piece plug, newest are very little problems.

I've got 160,000 miles on my 5.4 and it is not going to have the plugs touched until its miss-firing. The cost of the repair for stripped threads isn't worth risking it.
Click to expand...
en, do you know what head design changes they made in the latest ones?
Never mind, I found it. They got rid of the 2 piece plug, replaced it with essentially a conventional type plug except that the threaded part from body down to tip is a very long (maybe 1 1/2 inch?) threaded area vs something like N tractor plugs where the threaded part is only about 1/2 inch. Kinda like Japanese motorcycles have done for decades on some engines. Sometimes it is best to copy success than use a clean sheet of paper! Also 12mm vs 16mm.
One problem in discussing the "more than one problem" is the 2 valve heads, 3 valve and 4 valve heads and "blow out" vs "long 2 piece twist off".
 
There was no change in the head in 2007 or so, they changed the spark plug design. Now when you replace the earlier 2 peice plug you put in a 1 peice plug.

The earliest 2V engines had an issue with the there only being 4 threads or so in the head - a mechanic not following the torque specs to the letter could easily strip the threads without knowing it. The torque spec is very low - like 12 ft pounds.
 
Make sure that the engine is OVERNIGHT COLD. Heat and removing spark plugs do not mix, it tends to help strip threads.
 
should not have to soak them. 2000 year do not break off but they can strip threads. Use a torque wrench i think 13 foot lb, but double check. Replace the spark plug boots at the same time they tend to swell and spark can go past the boot. did quit a few of them not to big a dead just time.
 
(quoted from post at 00:22:44 02/23/13) should not have to soak them. 2000 year do not break off but they can strip threads. Use a torque wrench i think 13 foot lb, but double check. Replace the spark plug boots at the same time they tend to swell and spark can go past the boot. did quit a few of them not to big a dead just time.
Click to expand...
es, he was late in stating the 2000 model year (before 3 valve heads that had the 2 part break off problem). So, he is left with the thread problem. :cry:
 
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