slant six pick up carb

I am young enough that I have never worker arounds carbs much my choke does not work on my slant 6. It looks like there is some kinda linkage that goes from the manifold then to the carb. Give me some advice before I turn it into a manual choke. Will start and run if gas is dumped in carb and will start easy when warm.
 
The linkage goes to a spring..when cold it will shut the choke, only after you move the throttle open a bit...there is a cam with steps on it that moves and will give you high idle..sometimes the cam freezes up on the pivot, sometimes the spring breaks or changes calibration..see the link I have attached..not rocket science!
Choke spring
 
There's a bi-metal spring hooked onto that linkage on the manifold, holds choke closed when cold and as it warms up the choke opens. Sounds like your bi-metal spring needs replaced.
 
Pull the air cleaner off. Now try to move the linkage by hand hold the throttle open with your other hand. This is to make sure you can in fact move the choke butterfly as in it moves freely. If you can do so next hold it closed and let go of the throttle linkage so it closes. Does the choke stay closed when you do this?? If it does open the throttle and see if it opens. If it opens all the way the manifold spring is bad but it is only opens a little bit then you need to clean the linkage. The old slant 6 was what was in my first car a 1962 Plymouth Valiant
 
I had two trucks with that engine. If you're going to be the only driver, install a hand choke, and be done with it. That's what I did for both trucks. Other people, including garages, will mess up the hand choke settings. You'll have to re-ajust it every time someone else starts the engine, as they won't understand the operation. Operation of hand choke goes like this; Put the peddle to the floor; While pulling steady on hand choke, let peddle come up. You'll feel the choke lever/knob pull out a little more. Turn the key. When the engine fires, start moveing the choke in. And of course, this is for a cold engine. You'll figure it out.
 
Easy fix. Clean all the moving parts involved with the choke to be sure they are moving freely. If that doesn't do it just replace the choke spring assembly in the manifold. Really easy.

Greg
 
That slant 6 manifold-mounted thermal choke control can become troublesome after a few years of use. So also the vacuum-operated choke pulloff. Both parts must be working properly (also correctly adjusted) for the engine to start reliably.

I agree with Oliver Power - forget about the automatic choke and replace it with a manual push/pull knob and cable.
 
I wouldn't put a manual choke on it quite yet. Like others said it's a simple system. They do give some trouble after awile but there's really nothing to keep you from figuring it out. I've had five Chrysler product cars or pickups with carbs and every one of them has had a fussy automatic choke but they're so easy to work on I never did consider putting a manual cable on any of them. Jim
 
What year is your Dodge? The automatic chokes in the 1960's were OK, the early to mid 1970's were awful and by the 1980's they were better again. I had a 1975 D200 318 that from new it started hard and stalled often until it was warmed up. Neighbors had similar Dodge pickups and didn't have the problems that one did. The Dodge dealer couldn't fix it.

When I finally put a hand choke on it I was amazed how nice it started and ran after that. I didn't have anywhere near the problems with a 1984 318 Ramcharger.
 
My pick up is a 1982 it. I think it has the one barrel carb. It it is my man pick up. I only paid 900 for it and after a few years of hard labor it will get sent on to China. I dont really appreciate people with "girl" pick-ups.
 
Linkage to bimetallic spring can use a drop of
oil at every oil change...or maybe bimetallic
spring broke. Also..does it need one push in the gas
pedal to "set" it, on a cold start?
 

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