1930 GP STD

Vince Gavin · Feb 11, 2013

I recently acquired a GP. 216640. Dont know all about GPs
like my other tractors. I dont know if i want to repaint, part
out or trade/sell. I am not going into detail on what the guy
done but EVERYTHING has been restored, adjusted, replace,
bored, sleeved and sealed. Including sheet metal. Just needs
lh fender repaired/ replaced and lh radiator casting has a
crack need brazed from new core put in. Nothing cobblwd
up or welded up. Tractor came from north. Tight steering
and put back together for most part. Motor is nice and tight.
My thinking is rear rounds arent correct, how do i tell? And
the flats on front, even though cutoffs, arent correct? Your
thoughts and opinions appreciated. A steam clean and or
blasting and shea ready for paint. The guys i run with and
get my parts from dont know much about GPs either as I am
a collecter of other unstyled tractors and numbere two
cylinders. Would like to know where I could get used or
repro parts or know if anybody would like to trade for
something else I want. Im not going to ask what its worth
like other people try to do. She"s still in on my trailer as I
have other projects and tractors i would like to get on and
this one is tempting.

Vince Gavin · Feb 11, 2013

Heres some pics. If anybody can help me out or give me some info i would appreciate it. Vince

showcrop · Feb 11, 2013

Looks like junk to me. If you aren't to far away I will come and take it off your hands for you. Where are you located?

JohnDeereJimOhio · Feb 11, 2013

Just my .02$ but it looks like most of the hard work is done... Also those tires look almost new. the pre 40's deere's are becoming more scarce. Don't part it out either sell it to someone who will finish it or finish it yourself.. Where are you located and how much you want for the whole thing?

Vince Gavin · Feb 11, 2013

Not anywhere close to you showcrapper. Thanks for your BS

Mark-Ia · Feb 11, 2013

The fronts are cutoffs from a earlier GP. I can't tell what size the rear wheels are. 28" would definitely F-20 wheel. 24" could be Allis or F-20. The factory GP rear wheel had a step on the backside, where those wheels are tapered. Looks real nice though. Don't part it out.

Vince Gavin · Feb 11, 2013

Tires are Brand new. Yes, all the hard work is done. I am located between east TX and West CENLA. Im not worried about money, just would rather have something different. I ended up with it because of the deal I got with it.

Vince Gavin · Feb 11, 2013

Thank you for the info sir. I am trying to determine what you mean by taper and step. I doubt anybody will frown to much on having them wheels on rear at a show will they? As far as front, i thought the flats come from 29 and earlier from research. I have several AR & D wheels with the round spokes. I dont want to drop to much money in it, especially if it ever moves down the road, the next owner will do what they want amyway. Thank you again for you response.

John B. · Feb 11, 2013

I would definitely finish the restoration.

Vince Gavin · Feb 11, 2013

I am thinking about it. Seriously. But would rather have something I would use or enjoy more. It probably not as appealing the way it looks now, but spend an hour or two and put hood n tank and fender on, looks totally different. If I can find the right era plow for behind it or a cultivator or something, I may change my mind.

Mike M · Feb 11, 2013

Anyone know what that little pulley bolted onto the belt pulley is for ?

Traditional Farmer · Feb 11, 2013

Looks like it'd be a nice old tractor,pretty good looking plow on the trailer too both would make good show pieces.

Dalet · Feb 11, 2013

(quoted from post at 07:23:49 02/11/13) please take this in the manner intended, you need to get some better chains and use some binders. That load is a ticket waiting to happen.

I see a load binder near the drawbar. What is wrong with that?

Anonymous-0 · Feb 11, 2013

I believe correct gp rear wheels have a wavy face on the center hub, 99 percent of the people wouldn't know the difference anyway

Vince Gavin · Feb 11, 2013

If I wanted the way the item was tied down to be criticized, i
would have posted this on a commercial during the
superbowl, obviously we have a bunch of critics on this site
that doesnt know jack about what they are talking about.
Send me some pics of your junk and the way your items are
binded down for a 10 mile trip travelling less than 35mph or
grow up on a large farm that all you used were two cylinder
tractors... Or just grow up... Then we'll talk. Now you have
wasted both of our time...

Vince Gavin · Feb 11, 2013

Thank you sir.

Vince Gavin · Feb 11, 2013

I was wondering the same thing. Looks to narrow to drive anything. Its actually on there really nice and looks neat. Though I am sure it is nowhere near an option Deere had, I will leave it on if I finish it.

Dalet · Feb 11, 2013

(quoted from post at 09:35:06 02/11/13) If I wanted the way the item was tied down to be criticized, i
would have posted this on a commercial during the
superbowl, obviously we have a bunch of critics on this site
that doesnt know jack about what they are talking about.
Send me some pics of your junk and the way your items are
binded down for a 10 mile trip travelling less than 35mph or
grow up on a large farm that all you used were two cylinder
tractors... Or just grow up... Then we'll talk. Now you have
wasted both of our time...

Apparently you didn't figure out that I was disagreeing with the fella that said it wasn't chained properly. As you were..

Vince Gavin · Feb 11, 2013

Apparently not. I apologize. Been a LONG night/morning

JD Seller · Feb 11, 2013

Vince I would not paint it or change the wheels unless you are going to keep it. A good paint job and the correct wheels will never bring what they cost if you resale it.

I would just fix the water neck/leak and put the tank/hood on it and sell it As-is. The new owner can then change the wheels if he wants to. Then he can do what ever kind of paint job he wants.

If I was going to keep it I would just fix the leak and paint it. The cost of the correct wheels would not add anything to the value for me. I am not a member or believer like many of the Two cylinder Nazis are. If you run into one of them to buy it they will complain about anything you have done anyway.

Vince Gavin · Feb 11, 2013

I appreciate the response JD seller. I agree. I remember growing up as a kid and taking tractors to shows, especially an unstyled L and G we had. And there was always, it never mattered where, there was just always someone that was better than you or a snob at a show. And there were a couple of particular instances i remember that happened just like it was yesterday, when they picked something apart and were cocky about it, even though I grew up to respect my elders and show respect, me still being a kid and getting tired of there BS, i asked them where there tractor was, both times i asked them two different particular people, and neither one of them had a tractor at the showbnor owned a tractor. It was then I realized, your not there to please them but to please yourself and enjoy what you h
ave accomplished. I remember one was having a DLTX51 instead of a 24 on a G, and the other was having the A rnd spokes on front of the G and being criricized for calling it a 37 instead of the politically correct 38, even though it was made in 37... Thank you for your response. We both know farmers put whatever they could on the machine to keep it working or maximize the performance of the machine, which in alot of cases, were not Deere items and I think that adds carachter to a tractor during restoration within
Reason, for instance, the small pulley attached to clutch

DeltaRed · Feb 11, 2013

The fronts are definitly 'cuttoffs'.Look at how the front spoke is welded to the inside,offcenter of the rim.Thr rear rims are probably F-20(GP hubs are wavy).F-20 wheels will fit when you drill the center bolt holes to 3/4".And you are right,99% of the people will not know the difference.'Restore it as is.paint or not,thats OK!It will make a FINE 'specimen'.It needs to be kept in the way it was used,worked;THE way it was when the farmer used it to make a liveing with.Screw the "JD Nazis",correct police!Most of the time they have no idea what they are talkink about,anyway.Steve

colekicker · Feb 11, 2013

I say junk the POS. The seller obviously stopped restoration for some reason. Why would you want to step into that mess? Sell the tires and send the thing to China in pieces.

Think, you just raised the price of GPs because there would be one less left on the planet.

showcrop · Feb 11, 2013

(quoted from post at 09:02:40 02/11/13) I say junk the POS. The seller obviously stopped restoration for some reason. Why would you want to step into that mess? Sell the tires and send the thing to China in pieces.

Think, you just raised the price of GPs because there would be one less left on the planet.

Careful Colekicker, Vince appears to be a little sensitive. He might send your computer a virus or something, LOL.

Vince Gavin · Feb 11, 2013

Sounds like a normal quote from a typical lazy a$$.

Vince Gavin · Feb 11, 2013

How is your project coming along???

Half · Feb 11, 2013

Would finish it for sure. Did a D and GP, both in BAD shape. Bought one from someone who posts mostly on the taler board.

Vince Gavin · Feb 11, 2013

Obviously i made a mistake posting on here. I am sorry to the ones time i obviously wasted and offended by putting such a big POS on here. I hope we never meet anytime soon. To all the others that actually know what they are talking about and dont judge people, hopefully we meet in our travels to shows or parts-tractor peddling one day if we havent already and I am sorry this post got out of hand with the select few that have nothing else better to do than run there mouth and have answers for everything but cant back themselves up. We wonder why our country is in such a sad state of disrepair. But... People see what they want to see and read what they want to read and tO REITERATE what i was saying. Everything is done except left fender and small crack in left radiator casting that is cosmetic. Just looking for info and insight with the wheels and 1930 Gp in general.
Respectfully yours,
Vince Gavin
Yankee
Now resides in West Central Louisiana
Collector, restorer and user of all different brands and different items. If you would like my address too, i can post that too because I sure as hell am not hiding behind anything...

Traditional Farmer · Feb 11, 2013

Could be to run something slower than the big pulley like a vacum or water pump

BushogPapa · Feb 11, 2013

Vince, you must take into account (that) THERE ARE SOME SERIOUSLY BIASED lovers of other Colors here..as well as those who would love to talk you OUT of it...!!!

Keep at it..sure is coming along, I'd say..

2-14" will make it BARK....!!!

Ron..

Mark-Ia · Feb 11, 2013

I was wrong on the rear wheels. The factory round GP had a taper on the back as yours show. The Allis and F-20 had a step to the hub. The GP did have a wavy center, but that was the steel wheel.

Ultradog MN · Feb 11, 2013

What a hilarious thread.

Zeke67 · Feb 11, 2013

You have a 1930 GP that has some parts, cut-offs and carb, from an earlier GP. Flat spoke front steel was used into early '29. They were replaced by round spoke steel. Your tractor would have had the second version of round spoke steel that has 3 tabs cast around the outer edge of the hub. Earlier wheels didn't have them. The carb is all bronze. The large cover on top was changed to pot-metal in early '29. The back wheels will have an HC-3 cast in them if they are Deere wheels. I would be a little skeptical about everything mechanical being done unless you can see clean threads, new gaskets etc. . There are felt seals behind the rear wheel flanges and on the axles inside the brake drums that are often overlooked. If it only needs cleaning and painting, you did very well.

Vince Gavin · Feb 11, 2013

Thank you sir. Yes. Went over it with a fine tooth comb. Adjusted drive chains. Felt seals replaced. Bored, sleeved, head was done along with valves. Air cleaner spins on and off like supposed to, brake linings riveted, new clutch brake riveted on, the covers in final drives removed and new gaskets and goo. Tank lined and all tins taken to body shop abd done. New core. New oil lines. New tires. I am sure there are other things on list i forgot but everything has been done. Thank you again for the wheel info. And thank you for the carb info. I appreciate it. I turn wrenches by trade and restored a tractor or two myself. Everything is legit.

Zeke67 · Feb 12, 2013

You're more than welcome. I need to make a correction on my front wheel info. Your tractor falls in a narrow serial number range that used a wheel which has a hub similar to an implement wheel. Go to the JD forum and search GP wheels. There are pictures of them there.

colekicker · Feb 14, 2013

Vince,
I seem to think, based on your responses, that you really didn't want anyone's opinion. The fact that you immediately jumped to insulting me is apparent. If you thought I was really serious, you need to lighten up.

If you bought the tractor, you must have seen some promise in it. If you want it to be an actual restoration, then you should put it back 100% factory. This will take time and money to find the parts and do the work and is completely up to you.

Now, if you really think I am a "typical lazy a$$," it is even more apparent that you don't know "come here" from "sick'em".

I suggest if you really want advise and help from the folks on these boards, you treat people with some mutual respect, rather than being a complete jerk to everyone.

colekiker

1930 GP STD

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