concrete floor coating

Just finished a 36x36 garage/shop building. Plan to use it for vehicle storage and maintenance (and to store my TRACTOR)
Floor is smooth concrete. I have looked at some of the epoxy floor paints as seen on tv and it would be very expensive to do, plus a lot of people tell me that some of these products are not very durable with heavy use.
Has anyone used a clear concrete sealer product?
I"m ok with the concrete color but would like to have the floor be oil-resistant if possible.
Any recommendations?
 
The best sealer is applied when the concrete is wet, looks like you are past that point. Make sure no oil is spilled before you seal it.

I have never seen epoxy hold up to heavy traffic.
 
The epoxy that is thousands of dollars and multiple coats with grit and color chips is very durable (I have it under machines on concrete, and it takes a tough scratch with 50 pounds on a sharp point to wound it.) Urethanes and acrylic finishes on a un-touched not oil stained floor are durable and easy to repair if marred. They should cost about 50 to 75 a gallon. Jim
 
Applied a poly clear coat to my new concrete floor in tractor pole barn. Light traffic, best thing I did. So easy to clean and no dust when sweeping. Keep the doors open for fresh air.
 
Is cure and seal still around? We sprayed that on my old boss's 100 yard shop floor, still looks good today, and we poured the floor in the early 90s.
 
If you get the right epoxy it'll hold up to about anything. We had it on the Hanger floors in the Air Force where we'd pull things like B-52s and KC 135s across the floor with out damage in our Weapons Load Training (WLT)hanger we'd roll munitions handling trailers around some of them were well over 20,000 pounds with the trailer, pylons and weapons. TAC hangers were usually white floors, SAC used a light grey then later a tan. The lighter colors reflect light back and make the area much brighter. Some of our work bays were sealed concrete, that was okay too but I don't know what product we were using. Other people may have specific products to recommend.
 
I have had 10 of thousands of sq ft of epoxy floors installed. They can be damaged pretty easily moving any sharp objects across them. Weld splatter will burn it. I like the sanded floors like you see in the new Lowes stores now. The stuff that was put on my concrete in my shop when the concrete was poured is not gasoline or solvent resistant.
 
I have found that a mixture of engine oil, atf,
90wt, paint thinner, antifreeze, carb cleaner, brake fluid, some mud, a few drops of blood and a little bit of beer work best for preserving concrete garage floors.
 
(quoted from post at 04:45:50 01/06/13) I have found that a mixture of engine oil, atf,
90wt, paint thinner, antifreeze, carb cleaner, brake fluid, some mud, a few drops of blood and a little bit of beer work best for preserving concrete garage floors.

That's funny, that's the same stuff I put down on my shop floor! No wonder it stays looking so good!.
 
we use a concrete stain lowes sells it by the gallon it comes in all colors we use a gray for first coat 50 50 with zilean then second coat straight out of the can 5 gallons does 50 x 50 shop it may not resist every thing but holds up well i think it is call h and g not a water biased stain
 
Some of the epoxies are very durable. They're also expensive.
We've used a product called gym sealer mixed with paint thinner on warehouse floors. Required 3 coats. IIRC the first two coats were thinned 50/50, and the last coat wasn't thinned. Cheap, fast, easy.
It's the same product used (un-thinned) on gymnasium floors.
 
I have used some stain/sealer that is available from your local Sherwin Williams paint store. It comes in a variety of colors and can even be custom mixed to your color. Cost is about $50-$75 per gallon. It works real well against dirt, wear, and oil spills. Not gas resistant or durable against weld splatter.

Key is to use a darker color sealer. Darker colors are easier to keep clean. Opposite of what you would think. I have had it both ways and darker is easier.
 
Back in 1981 I built a shop with a steel troweled finish. I coated it to prevent oil absorption.

Back in 2005 I built a shop with a steel troweled finish. I DIDN'T coat it.

I can't tell the difference between the two.

The application of an absorbent after a spill removes most of the visual as well as physical appearance.

After you have had your shop for a few years it doesn't matter (to me). Just like anything else new. It has to (me) wear off.

HTH,
Mark
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top