automatic to manual transmission swap

Has anyone done a swap from automatic to manual in 1996 style chevy 4x4 pickup? I am looking into this after having so much trouble with the 4l60e and finding a heavy duty manual for a cheap price.

Never done it but it's not recommended. Need new flywheel, clutch linkage, pedal, etc. Need new brake pedal. Maybe different flywheel housing but don't know. Also don't know about computer changes.Some changes needed to shifter housing, assuming new tranny is a floor shift and not a column shift, in which case you need some new steering column parts. That's just from someone who hasen't done it, real knowledge people may have another list.

KEH

Never done it but it's not recommended. Need new flywheel, clutch linkage, pedal, etc. Need new brake pedal. Maybe different flywheel housing but don't know. Also don't know about computer changes.Some changes needed to shifter housing, assuming new tranny is a floor shift and not a column shift, in which case you need some new steering column parts. That's just from someone who hasen't done it, real knowledge people may have another list.

KEH

Most will tell you that its cheaper to sell your truck and buy one with a manual. But if that's not an option the swap can be done.

Hopefully when you say heavy duty you mean an NV4500 5 speed? If so before swapping do some reading on the 5th gear nut issue and correct it before putting it under the truck.

You will need the transmission, transfer case, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, front and rear driveshafts, shifter assembly, complete brake and clutch pedal assembly, slave cylinder and line there is probably a few things I'm forgetting. Optional would be the manual gauge cluster and steering column. You will also need to send the PCM to be reflashed so that it stops looking for input from the 4L60E... That is the basics there is more too it than that.

It will be a PITA, the only way it would be feasible and cost effective is if you can find a pick up like yours with a manual at a right price giving you a can bird to rob parts off of.

I converted my '59 Ford Galaxie from automatic to stick in 1967, but those were simpler times. As I recall, I also had to get the pedal hanger out of the stick car, to have the right piece to hang the pedals on.

But no computers in those days, just needed the mechanical parts- and the junkyard with the donor car told me I could just keep coming back for more stuff as needed. Don't know if I'd try it with computers and modules to deal with.

That being said, my BIL put a computer-controlled, fuel injected hi-performance Mustang 302 engine in his '67 Mercury Cougar. He's a real whiz on tech stuff (I'm the only guy in America who will admit that my brother in law is smarter than me), and he said he probably wouldn't have tackled it if he knew what all would be involved.

The 4L60E is a stout five pinion planatary transmission that will easily take 500HP if properly built.
Time to have a pro instead of Bubba"s automatic transmission repairs , bait , tackle and beer shop do the work.
A 96 has OBDII which is going to code if it doesn"t find all the proper input and output signals.
A 96 is 17 years old. Time to consider scraping it instead of re-repairing a worn out and rusted out vehicle.

Sn did it on a 98 4x4 Dodge. He went from auto to a 6 speed from a heavy duty Ford with a hi-low . Seems to work good for what he likes to pull with it.

one more thing is you will probably have to have the engine torn down so the crank can be drilled for a pilot bearing.

Sounds like mine, I did a 74 Nova in the 80's, getting the parts out of a junkyard Chevelle.
Came out good but my desire for that kind of project is long gone.
A good V8 with a 4 speed manual is something that never leaves one's system though.

Have not done one in a truck that new but have done one or 2 over the years in older trucks. In one that new I bet you have problems with the computer stuff

can it be done yes will it be cheap no what tranny you use will change what parts you need.and you will need to change the pcm settings.

as far as scraping you truck as someone posted if someone scraped all the old tractors 50 years ago when they broke down where would we be for a hobby now?

(quoted from post at 17:14:15 12/31/12) one more thing is you will probably have to have the engine torn down so the crank can be drilled for a pilot bearing.

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Nothing needs to be done to the motor other than change the flexplate out to a flywheel.

I would check what rear end ratio you have first because automatic and standard rear ends are different. If the rear end ratio is wrong it will make the clutch chatter.
Do not ask how I know this.

My 97 Ford no rust no dents no bad paint just one beautiful little truck.





<a href="http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j50/WaltDavies/?action=view¤t=snowinapril002.jpg" target="_blank"> </a>
Truck still just as good.
Walt

Around here the 97"s had holes rusted through the body by 2007 due to salt.

You seriously going to compare a field tractor to a light highway vehicle?
You must be already drunk out of your mind on New Years Eve.

to some of us a truck is more than a light highway vehicle.

(quoted from post at 20:23:04 12/31/12) Around here the 97"s had holes rusted through the body by 2007 due to salt.

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That's because you don't take care of them. I have an 87 ford that has no rust holes through the body. Spray the salt off from time to time and keep it undercoated and painted....

A pickup is classified as a light truck. Different from medium and heavy trucks.

It can be done just depends how bad you want it,your ability to do it, how much you want to spend,just like building hot rod custom cars.

It can be done with a NV4500 from a chevy Only certain years will work.I'm thinking 95, 96 adn 97. Possibly 94. The fifth gear issue does not exist with the Chevy transmissions. The PCM will have to be reprogrammed to remove the automatic transmission settings. Be sure it's the NV4500. Don't get the NV3500 which came in 1/2 ton trucks. You may also consider the 4L80e. They are very strong with heat being one of the few things that will kill them. They are as strong stock as a very well build 4l60e. It should be a slightly easier swap that involves moving the transmission cross-member(easy) and some altering of the PCM. Despite what some may say the 4l60e is NOT a stout transmission. They blow up in trucks that have never towed, forget trucks that tow. They were made for small SUV's and mini-vans. Every fullsize van, truck and SUV should have received a 4l80e. Transmission coolers are the biggest single helper. You may also consider a trans temp gauge. Do searches on google for 4l60e to NV4500(OR)4L80E swap and try fullsizechevy.com . They should be able to help you over there. That all said the 4l60e can be built to handle a stock engine and with coolers and reasonable driving shouldn't do too bad. I've towed 11,000lbs with a 305/4L60E/3.73 combo and the tranmission did alright. What I do when towing is take it easy in 2nd gear. Stay out of 4th gear. Keep the TCC locked as much as possible and let out on shifts. Don't trust the truck for it's very limited torque management. Do it yourself and save yourself some greif. I also have a oversized cooler and keep my temperature under 180F, letting it peak at 210 breifly. If it gets over that, STOP and let the truck idle for 10 minutes. At some point, I'm going switch for Dex VI synthetic, which should also help with oil breakdown at higher temperatures. For 4th gear, if you can keep the tcc engaged, then you should be fine, but it can be hard to keep engaged with any weight behind you.

If your towing heavy and you have the standard 10 bolt rear end, be aware that it will let go soon enough. If your going to be doing alot of towing, then you should switch to the 4l80e/nv4500 and the 14 bolt S.F