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Ford 4500 3 cylinder diesel

M

Matty g

New User
I can't get the tractor to start. Has fuel to injectors. Gave either. Still no go. Any tricks to the 203 diesel motor?
 
Not that it matters, but it's a 201. They are normally good starting engines. Diesels need fuel, air, and comression to run, along with adequate cranking speed to start. You have fuel, but wont' start, even with ether... means you lack cranking speed, air flow or compression. Lots of hours on it? Has it become an ether addict? Fully charged battery? (should have a 4DLT) Good, clean connections at battery and starter? Cleaned the oil bath lately? Also... how warm/cold is it where you are? A little time with the block heater plugged in will do wonders if it's cold.
 
mice had gotten into the intake, i removed it and cleaned it best i could without taking the head off, but maybe i should look into that further they may have dragged stuff into the cylinders, but its hard to see. plenty of battery cranks like a champ, its about 50 degrees here, i just bought the tractor a few weeks ago, the guy said it ran, then it sat for a year and he tried to start it and nothing. no idea how many hours, he took all the tin to get powder coated and i have yet to recieve it from him. also what is odd under the tractor on the passenger side, where the motor attaches to the housing you can see the fly wheel, but when i cranked the motor over oil came out, it looks like gear oil but unsure, i know its a dry clutch, any ideas how that would happen? thanks
 
I think you've found the problem - air flow. Check back through the tube to teh air cleaner to see if there is more mouse mess there, and in the oil bowl, too.
Shouldn't be able to see teh flywheel, except at the timing hole (common for the sheet metal cover to be missing). Oil coming out would be a leaking rear main seal if it was engine oil, or a leaking input shaft seal if it's gear/hydraulic oil. There should be a cotter key dangling from a hole in the bottom of the clutch housing to drain any oil that gets in there. If the cotter key is missing, the hole can get plugged.
 
well i have no air cleaner on it, its open intake. it has pretty good compression, but they may have gotten into the valves, i have to pull it apart further. i will take a look tomorrow for the cotter key and check to see if there is any more oil, it is gear oil.
 
before you tar the motor apart looking for damage, make sure that there is adequate fuel flow ro the pump Start at the inlet to the fuel filter and make sure that wehn you ope the tank valve you have a ot of fuel coming out of the line. If you don"t the tank strainer may be clogged. If you do, then hook it up and check for fuel downstream of the filter. If you don"t have a good fuel flow, replace the filter and bleed it. Check again for fuel flow. Bleed the pump and then open the injctor fittings, one at a time or all together and crank untill you see fuel and no air coming out of them. Tighten them and try a start. I can send you some bleeding instructions if you need them.
 
I did notice when I opened the lines on the injectors that the fuel spit out. But it doesn't seem right. The flow of fuel should be constant not spitting
 

I had mice get into a motor that I was working on last spring. I had just put manifolds and carb on and was almost ready to start it. When I came back in two days it would crank just a little ways then stop. It turned out they had gone in the exhaust and through an open valve into one of the cylinders.
 
If you opened the lines at the injectors, it SHOULD spit. There isn't a steady stream at the injectors. And be careful not to let that spray hit you - there's enough pressure there to force it through your skin.
 
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