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If it ain't broken should I break it????

R

rocko

Member
OK so heres where I'm at. Cockshutt 30 completely torn down, cleaning and prepping for paint, all thats left is tub frame tranny diff axles and "HUBS". Axle seals were'nt leaking to obviously when it was operational but from build up of oil , dirt and crud had at least leaked at some time in it's prior life. Figured I should probabely change seals now before painting to be "PRO-ACTIVE". but after trying to remove right side hub, using heat and beat and a farmer improvised puller (admittedly not overly agressive at this point, haven't broke any thing yet) for a couple to three hours with no success I'm starting to think I should let "SLEEPING DOGS LAY", but hate Idea of getting the old girl all prettied up and then having to go at them seals later when I find out that the build up of CRUD was the only thing keeping the seals from leaking. Opinions and or advise on hub removall appreciated. Thanks Rocko.
 
Now is the time to replace that seal, I work mostly on old Masseys, but I think your tractor is similar. That hub has to slide off the end of the axle to replace the seal. First make sure if there is some kind of snap ring it has to be removed. Use a piece of wide channel iron and drill holes to catch 4 or 5 holes in the hub. Use 1/2 inch grade 5 threaded rod through the channel and the hub with a piece of short shaft between the channel and the axle for a pusher, a heavy 3/4 drive socket will work. Keep tightening the threaded rod and most of them will come loose. In extreme cases I have seen a 1 inch plate with nine holes drilled and nine pieces of threaded rod all with tension and a big bertha torch on the hub for an hour or so, things will be smoking but that set up will pull any of them.
 
I would replace the seals now. I bet that they will really leak now that you have cleaned the old grease and dirt out/off of them. Plus if you have got any heat around them they are shot.

Mike in Mn has the idea on how to get them loose. Remove the big nut and then you need a piece of channel iron or square tubing to go across the end of the axle. I have some real long grade eight bolts that will allow me to put a jack between the end of the axle and a square tube cross puller I have made to use on stubborn wheel hubs. I have a short stroke 20 ton jack that I use to push with. I put the bolts in as far as I can get them into the hub. I then tighten the jack up. I then take a one inch steel rod that is two foot long and a big hammer. I put the rod against the hub and hit it as hard as I can. This will usually rattle the hub loose. IF not then I get a big heating tip and start applying heat to the hub. I never have had to cut one off yet but I have had them cherry red before they would pop loose with the twenty jack pushing on them.
 
Thanks guys for all your reply's. First Tom not much heat so far, just a propane torch on the hub, ways from the seal, must admit your concern did occur to me so I left the Oxy Ace torch outa the equation for now. Dave yes your correct and I did remove it. Other reply's according to parts book I haven't missed anything as you suggested but thanks for your reply's anyway's. Mike I like your idea's for pullers, and I realize that I will need to invest some more time and effort into this. Noticed no one said just leave them be and thats my own gut feeling also. Thanks again for your reply's and I'll post later on progress. Rocko.
 
Thanks JD, yes I know its the right thing to do and the right time to do it. Was late last night when I was working on it and gave up and went to bed. Hydraulic jack sounds like a good idea, and I guess I'll invest some more time and effort, and start earlier next time .Thanks again, Rocko.
 
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