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Tall concrete foundations on some of the old Barns?

R

rasman57

Member
Some of the old barns in my area have 4 foot or so foundation walls that the main structure is built upon.
I am planning a non-pole stick built barn/garage two story with a heated enclosed sleeping space upsatirs. The building will be built on a foundation. I like that traditional look and would think some of the cost of the additional concrete would be traded off by getting additional height without paying for longer lumber. Seems to be handy for critter proofing too.
Any experience or thoughts? Does the concrete jack the costs way beyond any benefit in height and material cost?
 
I think it could be a good idea. I put a concrete block wall about 2
feet above ground when I built the sawmill building here, it seemed
like a good way to keep the bottom of the siding from rotting from
water splash.
Zach
 
Yup. Costs more gernerally, and sounds like you might be insulatiing, consider how that happens on the concrete stem wall, but you will have a more stable, long-lasting building when you are done.

--->Paul
 
Like stated it prevents bedding material and manure from rotting
out the walls.

I priced it when I built my shop and its much more than wood
framing but I still wish I had done it so I could wash it out inside.
 
Find a concrete contractor who does ICFs. (Insulated Concrete forms) You will have the strength and durability of reinforced concrete, ground to roof, and a 6" thick ICF wall has more strength than a 8" conventionally poured wall. Google Arxx ICFs. Tons of info and a cost calculator, where you can compare building and heating cost options. We have built homes (footings to roof, with this system. You can heat them for little to nothing, deprnding on solar exposure, and heating equipment. and they are the quietest building you have ever been in. Take the time and investigate this type of construction. Will be time well spent.
Loren, the Acg.
 
My 60X64 barn was built in 1979 it has 3.5 cement walls. But
the guys didn't know what rebar was for so I'm not to sure how
long it will. Anyway most likely out live me.
Walt
 
No comparison of a stick built or framed built building vrs. a POLE barn. Our last shop is 42 ft wide 60 ft long and it is built with a poured concrete wall that is 2 ft in the ground and about 30 inches out. Two by six wall. really makes things nice inside. Easy to clean and not as much a fire hazard when cutting or welding.
 
I built my 40x60 with poured walls and a footing, instead of pole barn construction. I personally like it. It is quite a significant cost increase.

I never liked the idea of having steel siding or vinyl right next to the ground and wood. Concrete doesn't get tore up by weed whips and lawn mowers.

Rick
 
I have a 30 x 60 frame built on poured footing with cement block foundation, a concrete floor, metal exterior, bird proof, two over head doors, factory joist. Insurance co. thinks it is worth 38 grand.
 
Loren, that ICF link is really interesting. Good information and tools on the site.

Everyone has touched on things that I have thought about in planning the building and lean me towards taller foundation walls. It really will be the cost difference going taller as the building will have a footing and stick built walls for sure.
The frost line minimum is approx 42 inches in my area (Michigan) for footing depth in the ground, so I know the concrete cost will be a large part of the cost of the building.
 
We just built a new machine shed/shop for our farm. It is 64 x 100 x 18 with stick built walls covered with OSB. We chose to to use a footer/pony wall combination with 14' 2x6's sitting on top of a 4' concrete wall. We did no want pole barn but something stronger and with the potential to be completely insulated and lined for a large shop in the future. Here is a photo of it for you:

BuildingInside2.jpg
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Iowa Jim, Great looking Machine Shed. Those stub walls are just what I am leaning towards with 2x6 framing lumber for the walls built on them for increased insulation and strength. Are the horizontal boards nailers for the OSB and exterior or firring to bring the wall size to match the concrete?
 
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