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John Deere A Problem

J

JohnDeereA man

New User
Hell im haveing a problem with a john deere 1951 A that i bought it had a loud bang and raddle coming from around the clutch transsmission/ motor area and clutch was slipping so i tore the clutch apart and looked like all it needed was new fiber disk so i put them in and that stopped the noise if the tractor was driving but when it is out of gear it goes right back to makeing the loud noise i even changed the bearing on the first reduction gear any suggestions of what it might be. i could use some advice
 
I had a slant dash A that thumped/banged in the clutch area only
when the clutch was pulled, not when engaged, even in neutral.
Crank shaft was worn out.
I hope that's not your problem.
 
the guy i got it from said it only started makeing the noise after the clutch started slipping and he parked it as soon as he got to the end of the firld and he said he did not no how to adjust the clutch so he never messed with it anymore
 
Check the crankshaft end play. If it is way out they will make noise when the clutch in disengaged.
 
Did you change the inner disc behind the driving disc. This you have to pull off the shaft to get at the disc.Otherwise could be a bad bearing on the inner shaft of the first reduction gear. Ron Mn.
 
make sure the clutch side crank main bearing isnt worn. Do this by seeing if you can move the clutch pulley up and down
 
I have a 51A that make a noise like you have but it does it in neutral or driving. It has a tooth off of the first reduction gear and the drive gear on the crank.
 
The flywheel od clutch drive can cause what you are discribing, but the second drive plate that moves on the drive disc would be my guess. if too loose on the splines it will rattle. It dose not need to be timed on the drive plate, but if you fine one that the teeth are better on it might help correct. Keeping the clutch adjusted up good will help also.Make sure the drive plate is tight on the splines on the crankshaft. Good Luck
 
Check your flywheel. Mine was loose and radiated noise to the clutch/belt pulley. It was most noticeable when you pulled the clutch back while moving.
 
On that tractor there is a procedure fot tightening the flywheel and it is different than for the open flywheel types. You have a nut on the end of the crankshafy to pull the flywheel in where on the ones without you just pushed it in with the clamping bolts loose. That nut is supposed to have a spot that is bent into a notch on the crank to keep it from turning, you have to pry it up to release the lock feature then back it off. Now loosen the clamping bolts, now you should be able to move the flywheel by hand. Now is the time to tighten that big nut on the end of crank, do not set the lock, tighten the clamp bolts. We would have to use a cheater bar on a 1/2" breaker bar, when they are as tight as you can get them (just guessing as we did not have a torque wrench at that time they would be over 150 ft lb) Now you go back to the big nut on crankshaft and finnishing the tightening, might be just a tine fraction of a turn or a full turn, then use a punch to set the lock back in notch on shaft. Have clutch disengaged while doing this, then readjust the clutch.
 
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