OT - Any plumbers have any other suggestions

Kirk Grau

Member
Was in my office this morning and started to hear water running from the adjacent restroom.

Took a minute to realize what was going on, but got the water to the building turned off. Have sucked up ~10 gallons so far with the shop vac. Still have a little clean up to go. Grateful I was close to get it shut off. It is a nice day here, and I am the only one home - Could have been hours until it was noticed otherwise.

Thinking to fix it, need to enlarge the floor penetration to get enough pipe to glue a fitting on, at shortest point pipe is only about 1/4" above the floor. Then put an escutcheon over the larger opening.

Just looking for any collective wisdom here that might provide an easier/cheaper/quicker/etc. method.

Thanks,

Kirk
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Take a large hole saw or sawsall and enlarge the opening around the pipe. All the way to the nearest floor joist if it is practical.Make an access door. Take the plug that the saw makes out, do the repair and reinstall the plug with construction adhesive and screws to the joist if you found one or two.
 
Not to highjack this thread . But i have a 4 inch cast iron stink pipe goin out my roof . Iv'e read they make valves that can take the place of the pipe ? But i can't find them at lowes? How hard are they to install? Are they sold ?
 
Those trap vents are temporary for winter construction, or for special situations. If this is a/the only main stack vent, you do not want to go that route! It will backfire on you, and cause much repair in the future.

If I understand your question right.

--->Paul
 
But as i understand it new homes are being built without the ugly pipes sticking through the roofs ? I could be wrong . I just would like to move the pipe and wondered if there is a way to eliminate it all together and have the valve in the basement ?
 
That looks white abs pipe if it is the it broke because the pipe is breaking down you need to replace everything back to solid pipe if the whole house is plumped with that stuff you got major problems just sitting there waiting for you.
If you want to stay with the pnc then get the dark grey stuff with theads on the ends. Or if you are not good at this type of repair call a good plumber but check around the price go from reasonable to the sky's the limit.
Walt
 
I agree with Uncle Ernie. Hole saw for ceramic, big enough to glue a union on it. Should be all set, after that.

At first I thought it was copper by the color, looks to thick, PVC right?

Rick
 
Learned something new, but I'm just a simple dirt farmer, see they have been in the code since 2003 or so. I understand their appeal.

http://www.toolbase.org/Technology-Inventory/Plumbing/air-admittance-valves

However, it appears you still do need one vent stack through the roof in the USA?

"Although Air Admittance Valves can eliminate the need for multiple roof vents, one fresh air vent per structure is required in the United States, especially when used with a septic system."
 
Those valves vent into the wall. I woul;dn't want to do that in my house. You could replace it with 1 1/2 or 2 inch plastic to make re-roofing easier next time.
 
If you go all the way back to the main line to replace it, use pex and shark bite fittings and the job will be done in half the time.Most case you will only need two or three fittings and a valve.
 
Things like this always take me at least twice as long as I think they should. Trip to my local hardware store gave me everything I needed.

A few answers or discussion items:

Material is CPVC.

Flooring was vinyl, not tile, so that simplified things considerably.

Thesmoothedeere - Air Admittance Valves are generally approved for installation in the codes that I am knowledgable of. Local jurisdictions sometimes impose their own limitations and may not allow them. Minimum size for Vent Thru Roof is 3" to prevent frost closure.

~Kirk
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